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Showing results for tags 'fuel'.
Found 8 results
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Hi team. Recently got a very tidy E30 LHD 2 door sedan 325i Mtech2 (m20b25). Of couse it comes with issues and here goes haha... When starting the engine, it starts on the first go fine whether it is cold or hot, but dies within 5 - 10 seconds after. Key off again and switches back on, starts fine and doesn't die from there. Things I've already done on this car... New fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel hoses around the pump and fuel filter. New fuel pressure regulator. New idle control valve. New spark plugs. (Coils/HT leads/Distributor/Rotors are less than 2 years old and checked fine) I also put the total system cleaner through fuel tank and did make better and so far starts and runs fine on the first go. I'm thinking maybe the injectors are leaking as I can smell bit of fuel around the engine bay (not all the time). Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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Hi All, I appear to have a fuel leak in my 2002 M54 530: Passenger side (left) of fuel tank, coming down the tank surface, in vicinity of the 3 pipes. Appears to occur only on an initial cold start, after a long hot run, then stops? Nothing on subsequent hot starts or running, nor daily driving around town etc. I'd start the car from cold, drive 5 mins or so, hop out and there is a strong raw fuel smell with the fuel tank wet with fuel. At a guess perhaps 50-100ml or so seems to escape? Tops of tank where outlet and return pipes, plus wiring looms on each side are dry, and no visible signs of fuel trying to look around from those top two holes accessed under back seat. Fuel tank can be at any level when this occurs. I am about to replace the charcoal filter up in the left rear wheel well just as a course of preventative maintenance. Could it be saturated? and some sort of cold start procedure is pushing fuel out a vent outlet which I think is in the vicinity? No change since changing charcoal canister. I suspect fuel vapor is condensing perhaps in expansion tank and then getting sucked through perhaps a split pipe somewhere. No fuel should be getting into charcoal canister as any fuel or condensate should be draining back into tank, unless that particular pipe is blocked? The vent pipe to engine also has a connection I can't get to without removing it. I may be able to do that relatively easily (without removing tank)... Any ideas welcome... I suspect it's order a swag of new pipes, fuel tank out, and replace everything - since this thing owes me a gabillion $$$ anyway.... Cheers,
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Hi, my E60 M5 owners manual recommends 98 RON unleaded fuel. I usually fill up with 95, but found a gas station around the corner offering 98 at a reduced price cheaper than 95 even. Does contain 10% ethanol. Is that a problem?
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After a drive I park the car in the garage and close the door, if I go back out to the garage later on I can smell raw fuel. I have not noticed the smell inside the car at all.. the fuel cap could be to blame? it seems too easy to open when its done up and clicks.. but maybe its meant to be easy to open. Any common causes? i thought about that filter that you can access under the rear seat.. it has a metal cap over it, so could prevent the smell entering the cabin perhaps.
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Hi guys, I know this has been asked many times before on the interwebs, but I just want to make sure I'm running the correct fuel here in NZ. Just bought a used 120i which was originally a Japanese import. The only owners manual I was able to find online is U.S.A. and doesn't cover this model (does anyone know where I can get a NZ 120i owners manual pdf?) In the U.S. manual it says: AKI 91 (RON 95) is highly recommended. You may also use gosoline with less AKI. The minimum AKI Rating is: - 128i: AKI 87 (RON 91) - 135i: AKI 89 (RON 93) Is the same model car tuned to use the same octane worldwide? i.e. RON 95 here in New Zealand. Or would it by any chance have been tuned differently for Japan? The guy I bought it off told me he had been using RON 91 while he owned it - which is why I'm confused. Thanks, Barry.
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Hi guys, so i see that a similar thread to this one was posted a few weeks ago on here but i thought id make my own as i have my own set of problems. The car wont start, which is next to no help for anyone who wants to help me diagnose the problem. So the car used to start occasionally in Neutral only (Auto Trans), and i thought doing it this way would be okay until even that stopped working. When we jump the battery is starts every time but the battery has been tested and it seems fine? When you turn the key you can hear the fuel priming, it just wont turn the engine over. As i said i have had the battery tested and have been told its fine, however when i jump it the car starts perfectly. And because iv been told the battery is fine i dont really want to spoend money on a new battery if the problem lays elsewhere. Could it be the starter? I have no clue, but i have been told (admittedly the person who told me that literally just had a glance) it could be the starter. This is the ONLY thing holding the car back from being my daily, i have put in a lot of work over the last few weeks these holidays getting it all nice. Once the car can start everytime no problem, itll be on the road and i cannot wait for that! Thanks for any help you guys can give me, it is much appreciated!
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Wondering if anyone has a inline fuel pressure gauge they no longer need or use, otherwise ill buy the bits and make one up.
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So my FPR in my e30 was leaking so I took it off to discover a munted O-ring. Now I have it off the car I'm wondering is there an easy way to diagnose if the FPR itself is broke or not? (I suspect it is - horrible fuel consumption, can smell fuel quite strong when car is running, and cuts out when sitting in traffic on really hot days). I have a hand vacuum pump so could connect that to create a vacuum, but then what could I do? I suppose probably the only way is with a pressure gauge? I don't have one so was hoping to avoid if possible.. Cheers guys
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