Hi-Tek 3 Report post Posted January 11, 2011 Looks really good mate, has Racefx been straightening it up? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1039 Report post Posted January 11, 2011 yays ... play friend has been fixed! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamez 2147483647 Report post Posted January 11, 2011 Looks really good mate, has Racefx been straightening it up? Nah a panel and paint on the north shore did it, forgot the name of the place but they did a pretty good job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamez 2147483647 Report post Posted April 6, 2011 (edited) A lot has happend since the last update, I blew the headgasket so the engine got rebuilt and we went with a genuine head gasket over the think MLS type it had previously. We also got some under-drive pulleys and replaced the water pump Then Gavin worked some magic on the dyno and gained ~13rwhp peak hp and around 10-20rwhp through the middle of the power curve. There are also good gains for torque. It was found the timing was way to advanced and it wasn't getting enough fuel - this was probably the reason its blown 2 head gaskets for no good reason. Its also running a lot colder than it used to. Cant wait to get out on to the track Edited April 6, 2011 by Jamez Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted April 6, 2011 What was the idea of running a thicker mls on an otherwise stock engine? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamez 2147483647 Report post Posted April 6, 2011 no idea, its something raceFX decided they would do. tbh after the first rebuild it always felt down on power, I suspect the drop in compression due to a thicker gasket was the reason. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kerry 10 Report post Posted April 6, 2011 rush is prity good at working on those james, hope you guys are happy with the work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamez 2147483647 Report post Posted April 6, 2011 Forgot to mention, Noel did a great job that didn't cost the earth, Can't recommend him enough Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gotheschu 1 Report post Posted April 6, 2011 Cant wait to get out on to the track Bring that track day forward =P Can't wait Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1039 Report post Posted April 6, 2011 sweet! good stuff. interesting about the advance ... im wondering with the problems youve had with it maybe look at running a AFR gauge or better still get one of these http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamez 2147483647 Report post Posted April 10, 2011 (edited) Took it for a spin yesterday..... Normally when I do mod's, most of the gain is in my head but not this time. It has a very different exhaust and intake note, oh the intake noise In terms of performance it way more punch out of the corners and is getting 300-500rpm extra at each breaking point with 90% throttle (throttle cable wasn't giving full throttle but I have since adjusted this out) Also adding the drain pipe between the inlet manifold and the headlight has dropped intake temps from ~50 degrees to just 30. Cant wait to drive it with anger Edited April 10, 2011 by Jamez Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted April 11, 2011 Was there any prep done to the block or head before installing the MLS? Where abouts did it leak? Did you use standard head bolts or ARP's? I am curious as I am worried that my MLS will leak. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lucan 196 Report post Posted April 11, 2011 Thats quite a temp decrease for such a short distance! Can't be bothered looking back so what was the previous set-up? You never made a cold air box? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamez 2147483647 Report post Posted April 11, 2011 (edited) Was there any prep done to the block or head before installing the MLS? Where abouts did it leak? Did you use standard head bolts or ARP's? I am curious as I am worried that my MLS will leak. -Block and head were cleaned and both were deemed flat. -The MLS leaked badly on 2 cylinders (IIRC 3 and 5) -ARP bolts were used and have been reused on the latest build. Thats quite a temp decrease for such a short distance! Can't be bothered looking back so what was the previous set-up? You never made a cold air box? It never had a cold air box before but it did have an iron pipe that fed off the engine bay. Changing the material to plastic and feeding off the headlight fixed this. I also put a bit of heat resistant cloth on the front of the intake plenum so that air blowing off the radiator doesn't hit it directly. Now the air in the trumpets is only ~4 degrees hotter than air temp. Edited April 11, 2011 by Jamez Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lucan 196 Report post Posted April 11, 2011 Where'd you get the ARP's? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kerry 10 Report post Posted April 11, 2011 Where'd you get the ARP's? segedins are good Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted April 11, 2011 Where'd you get the ARP's? I imported mine from Maximum PSI. I didnt try segedins but I tryed other ARP dealers in NZ and nobody had them in stock and they were more expensive than importing them myself. You can sometimes pick up a cheap set off ebay, but make sure they are the newer ARP 2000 type. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamez 2147483647 Report post Posted May 2, 2011 Here is a short noise clip of the e30 coming down the front straight, My mobile doesn't give the intake noise justice. It can be heard from miles away and is so freekin loud. On another note, is a water temp of 85-90C and oil of 110-120C fine with a s50? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg111 13 Report post Posted May 2, 2011 Here is a short noise clip of the e30 coming down the front straight, My mobile doesn't give the intake noise justice. It can be heard from miles away and is so freekin loud. On another note, is a water temp of 85-90C and oil of 110-120C fine with a s50? 90 degrees is normal for the water, the oil temp at normal driving usually sits at 80 degrees, on a track mine goes to 100, doesn't move further than that, mine still has the factory oil cooler though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrphTa 5 Report post Posted May 4, 2011 Water temp is okay. The BMW manual advises you shouldn't drive the car if the oil temp is over 120C. Mine sits at 90C. Have never had it over 110C with enthusiastic driving Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1039 Report post Posted May 6, 2011 Badass sound clip man .. I think unfortunitly I have quitened my induction noise down a little bit with the airbox. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamez 2147483647 Report post Posted July 23, 2011 (edited) Got the front turrets raised and welded up all the cracks in the front chassis rail, now it doesn't creek and is so much more responsive in the steering and feel. Front guards have also been flared. Also supplied a pic of my $15 intake mod that added 20hp edit - forgot to mention the reason its way nicer to drive is its no longer sitting on the front bump stops.... should be a bit quicker now that it has working front shocks Edited July 23, 2011 by Jamez Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EdifGee 0 Report post Posted July 23, 2011 How close are the strut towers to the bonnet?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamez 2147483647 Report post Posted July 24, 2011 (edited) How close are the strut towers to the bonnet?? I think there is about .5 to 10mm of clearance. I had to wind the suspension up about an finger width from where it is in the pics as it was rubbing on the wheel arch but I took it for a drive yesterday and managed a new PB of 1:13.9 then 1:13.6 then 1:13.5. There is still more in it but I was surprised how late I can brake on the front straight, before I was braking at the start finish line but now I am braking just after the start lights which is at about the 125m mark once I get my foot on the pedal, With bigger balls or if I had to pass under brakes In a race I could probably do the 100m mark. Also I used to brake just before the crest of the Hairpin but now I am braking on the other side going down into it. The car is so easy to drive and I am really looking forward to entering the BMW series at Hampton, it will be nice to see what lines other people are taking and reduce my lap times a bit more. I also told myself if I get into the 1:13's I have to buy new slicks in order to try be on the front of the grid as the current ones have had about 30 heat cycles which makes them about 2 seconds slower than new, they also have a million flat spots from previous testing gone wrong Edited July 24, 2011 by Jamez Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jamez 2147483647 Report post Posted August 7, 2011 (edited) Update: Have been working hard of the last few weeks to remove 2 Seconds or more off the lap time. -First I have given the car a clean so it looks faster -Next I Added a more efficiant rear wing that I will run with very little angle -I have bought a set of heavyier Eibach Springs to trial -I have bought solid gearbox mounts as the standard ones have heaps of play -I am going to mount the fuel tank 20cm closer to the rear axle so the car is not so susceptible to fuel load changes -I am going to mount the front splitter 1cm lower so the gap below the car is 10% less -I am going to reduce the play in the shifter -I have some new NZV8 Slicks lined up for a great price as can't bring myself to spend $3000 on a set of Michelin's The current ones have had about 50 heat cycles now -I am going to get a adjustable front anti roll bar as the current one keeps hitting the sump and causing a whole lot of secondary problems -I also found that the right hand side had 2 more degrees camber than the left, I have since reduced ir to match the left and I suspect this is will resolve the problem with the front right always locking up before the left -I am yet to do a wheel alignment so will do that before the next outing -After doing the 1:13's I found the front right was an inch lower than the front left so have since corrected it After doing all this I hope to get into the low 11's at Hampton, otherwise I will probably not enter the BMW series Last but not least, thanks to Ray at HellBM for the boot. Edited August 7, 2011 by Jamez Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
