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westy

The bastard child.

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Some more pics of the project that never seems to get anywhere

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Definitely badass with an extra ass!

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"Some more pics of the project that never seems to get anywhere@!

I would'nt say that go back to the first post of this thread and see what you began with. A lot of time and effort have been put into your project, bloody good effort i say and very interesting to see how it has come on. At least it is on wheels and moves if you push it now Stiff upper lip and all that old boy lol:

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Those wheels turned out alright didnt they :)

Yeah, pity about the tyres ha.

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Yeah, pity about the tyres ha.

Hehe. Well as it sits, you'll probably going to need to go to a 35 profile for road tires. As for slicks, tires you have on at the moment pretty much are what the standard dunlop 17inch slick will look like. there maybe some rubbing without a camber adjustment in the front (which is fine) .. the rear may need some work on the guards.

again have a look at mine, we can take the springs/sway bars out and measure the arm 'swing' to see how much movement at my spring rate you have ? Will at least give you and idea of what to expect on compression.

Will email you some photos of mine at full compression

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Cheers for the pics Josh.

These tyres are the old 235/45/17s from the 540. They actually measure about 240+x630. Where as the 235/40/17s on the RKs measure 235x610.

You can see how much room the RKs have here

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The RS740s with the balloons on them have about 30mm of travel at the height I'm looking at running.

So, I'm thinking slicks on the RKs at 240/620-640 and something like a 215/45 and 235/40 on the RS740 in R comp or wets.

Want to remake the entire front end in FRP so anymore changes shouldn't be toooo difficult.

famous last words ect.

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If your going for r-comp wets then get something fairly low profile such as 35. I find 40 pretty big on a 17x8/8.5

Got a pic of gavins 225/45R17 R888's its not too bad but I think youll have the same issues in the rear.

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Pretty dull update. Pulled a few cables out.

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Still shitloads left but it's something.

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Sweet Jesus man, this is beyond impressive! Easily the most intensive build I've seen since the father-in-law embarked on the Healey, difference being you're crazy enough to hybrid two generations together!

Kudos to you sir! So subscribed!!

More please!!!!! :wub:

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Dammit got all excited. Thought there was an update =(

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You didn't just read 3 years of drivel did you?

Nothing happens round here over Christmas/New year anyways, so no update.

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any updates? ... sorry for anyone getting excited like last time :P

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So Christmas is gone and so are the hols so...

Managed a bit of work, nothing major but even a little progress is nice at the moment.

Mounted Andrews seat. Cheers fella!

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Sorted a position for the shifter higher and further back than stock and uses the stock E46 stuff.

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Also, because of the unknown age and specs of me poor old welder, I did some destructive testing on some tube with 3mm wall.

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So with 2.5mm wall cage steel I think we're all good for weld strength.

Finally, anyone care to critique my cage landings?

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Thinking maybe they protrude too far from the sill?

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So Christmas is gone and so are the hols so...

Managed a bit of work, nothing major but even a little progress is nice at the moment.

Good to see some progress.

I find it really hard to get back into things after a break,

Spend more time finding tools I didn't put away properly *doh*

I probably should follow suit update my thread also (finally got the manifold all welded up).

So with 2.5mm wall cage steel I think we're all good for weld strength.

Finally, anyone care to critique my cage landings?

Thinking maybe they protrude too far from the sill?

I take it you are building your own cage then. *props*

Don't think I trust my welding skills enough, a lil' bit too inconsistent.

Re: cage landings, or 'plinths' in your proposed case.

Not sure if you trawl the Bimmerforums 'Track' sub-forum?

There was an epic saga about using Plinths Vs the usual reinforcement type footing.

Don't recall the outcome as there were a few contradictions from the sanctioning bodies in the US.

The thing that strikes me, the reinforcement (3mm plates) to the ex. sheet metal approach is to prevent the tubes puncturing the thin sheet metal.

With a plinth, the plinth itself could puncture/shear through the sheet metal if there is no reinforcement done to the underlying area first. ie. 2x the work to do properly.

If it is about shortening the A & B Pillar bars so the cage can be dropped off the plinths to weld 360° around the A-B pillar join & windscreen bar, you can also cut holes to drop the cage through with a std reinforcement plate design.

My 2c

I wouldn't go for a plinth to mount the cage.

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Tony, Wants some pics of Conrads 92 DTM cage ? Its pretty much the pinicle of cage design for that chassis

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I personally like the idea of using the raised boxes in this car.

To weld right around the main hoop is near impossible where the seat steps up.

I think the nz specs are plenty safe and will use plinth boxes next time I do a coupe with a stepped seat

It might be the picture, but it seems to me like the front boxes aren't far enough forward. If the lateral bars hug the body as far forward as they can go and then go vertically down from there

Are you doing the bending yourself?

Good luck. You'll grow to love roll cage yoga

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Good to see some progress.

I find it really hard to get back into things after a break,

Spend more time finding tools I didn't put away properly *doh*

I probably should follow suit update my thread also (finally got the manifold all welded up).

Yeah, whats with standing around just looking at it and trying to remember what it was you were doing last? Ha.

I take it you are building your own cage then. *props*

Don't think I trust my welding skills enough, a lil' bit too inconsistent.

Re: cage landings, or 'plinths' in your proposed case.

Not sure if you trawl the Bimmerforums 'Track' sub-forum?

There was an epic saga about using Plinths Vs the usual reinforcement type footing.

Don't recall the outcome as there were a few contradictions from the sanctioning bodies in the US.

The thing that strikes me, the reinforcement (3mm plates) to the ex. sheet metal approach is to prevent the tubes puncturing the thin sheet metal.

With a plinth, the plinth itself could puncture/shear through the sheet metal if there is no reinforcement done to the underlying area first. ie. 2x the work to do properly.

If it is about shortening the A & B Pillar bars so the cage can be dropped off the plinths to weld 360° around the A-B pillar join & windscreen bar, you can also cut holes to drop the cage through with a std reinforcement plate design.

My 2c

I wouldn't go for a plinth to mount the cage.

I can imagine how bad a shitfight on Bimmerforums would end up.

Seems to me that if a plinth is welded vertically to the sill, then if it's going to punch through it needs to tear the sill through the floor as well? Seems unlikely?

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Tony, Wants some pics of Conrads 92 DTM cage ? Its pretty much the pinicle of cage design for that chassis

If you have some of the floor mounts yeah, stick 'em up here. If he doesn't mind.

I personally like the idea of using the raised boxes in this car.

To weld right around the main hoop is near impossible where the seat steps up.

I think the nz specs are plenty safe and will use plinth boxes next time I do a coupe with a stepped seat

It might be the picture, but it seems to me like the front boxes aren't far enough forward. If the lateral bars hug the body as far forward as they can go and then go vertically down from there

Are you doing the bending yourself?

Good luck. You'll grow to love roll cage yoga

Pictures are a little deceiving but in saying that the front could probably go forward a little. But the leg still wont be much forward of the door opening.

As for bending, no not me. I wonder if a shop has the templates sorted for the main members? A few E30 cages around these days. Otherwise, it's templates and finding a shop to bend them. Could be fun.

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That looks quite good.

I wonder what shipping's like and how close the fit is?

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That looks quite good.

I wonder what shipping's like

$30

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