Operation: Weapons Grade

[hybrid 1039]

Will there be a CAB for the air filter or some kind of heat sheild in the future?

Sure will, I have it all cut out sitting in my garage .. Just need to make some adjustments to make it fit better and re-cut the alloy before mounting.

Will look at this soon as summer heats are fast approaching!

[hybrid 1039]

Some recent additions.

Replaced the pre-fl metal head lights for some light weight nylon frame Bosch projector elipsoid 'Smilie' headlights -- next is 6000k h1 HID

Sparco 330mm / 39offset black suede wheel

[crazyarab 6]

Looking good Josh, I must tackle this E36 windows switch business! I can't stand the current ones.

[Nobimmer 694]

Noice

[Hi-Tek 3]

Looks good bro, nice to see black hardware used on the wheel too.

I'll have to chuck yours on the GTR to see if the offset might be better suited than ours is currently.

[hybrid 1039]

Looking good Josh, I must tackle this E36 windows switch business! I can't stand the current ones.

yeah man, just grab some white bottom ones are youre away. Seriously one of the best cheap mods you can do on an e30.

[hybrid 1039]

Looks good bro, nice to see black hardware used on the wheel too.

I'll have to chuck yours on the GTR to see if the offset might be better suited than ours is currently.

Yeah sweet as, the hardware you can get from the bolt shop for about $8 that place is awesome .. so cheap to replace bolts.

[Hi-Tek 3]

^

I've got the 5mm black steel jobbies already mate :0

[hybrid 1039]

Some new toys

Dunlop 240/625r17 D11's and 17x8 BBS RC 304

Two spare slicks on the right.

Off to be refurbed next week

[westy 614]

Sticky!

Do us a favour and run a tape measure across the circumference? Wanna see if the actual matches the numbers on the side.

[OLLIE 26]

licorice donuts ....

[E30 325i Rag-Top 2919]

Replaced the pre-fl metal head lights for some light weight nylon frame Bosch projector elipsoid 'Smilie' headlights

Looks good - how much work is involved on wiring side to get the smilies to work on the pre-fl?

[hybrid 1039]

Sticky!

Do us a favour and run a tape measure across the circumference? Wanna see if the actual matches the numbers on the side.

will do tonight

Looks good - how much work is involved on wiring side to get the smilies to work on the pre-fl?

Pretty easy

Get FL lights

Get FL body loom plugs and generous tails. (need 6 and they are all different EG park wont fit in high beam hole etc etc)

Get heat gun for heat shrinking

Get appropriate heat shrink

Get solder

Get decent soldering iron

disconnect battery

keep bonnet open

remove grill and pre-fl lights

Sit around front of the car and work on it through through the light space instead of bending over the car and rooting your back.

chop body loom pre-fl plugs off

Low beam plug = Brown is common ground for low beam and park lights.

one wire is low beam and the other is park.

The left hand side park light has two wires coming out of it. That is the positive that chains onto the right hand side light (facing forward if sitting in the drivers seat) ... youll get what I mean.

High beam = Brown ground and coloured wires are positive.

Wire in new FL plugs after testing circuits and writing results down

strip and tin the new expsosed wires ...

DONT FORGET TO PUT HEAT SHRINK ON

Wire in the common earth ..

Wire in the positive for park and the positive chain for the left park light ... its a bit of a pain and left hand side took me 2 hours because of it.

Right hand side repeat the same .. should only take 30-40 mins instead as you only need to chain up the common earth.

Use another car you know has its lights set up perfect and mark in pencil its light beams up against a flat surface and a garage door or side of house.

Move said e30 in to place with only one screw in place (top mount screw) this way you can make adjustments to the seating of the lights in relation to the black grill and light holes ...

after you have it set up so the lights fit the holes properly .. put other mount screws in then use the light aligment adjusters to correct the beam.

All done!

[Hi-Tek 3]

Those RCs look mint enough for track hacks bro. Did you get the slicks from an NZV8 team?

Garry Pedersen's United Video team is just across the road from Arrow Wheels. We got ours for $50 each.

[hybrid 1039]

Slicks are fun ...

Now to get use to their limits.

enjoy

[Jamez 2147483647]

E30S50 Racecar vs Roadcar Max/Min speeds

Speed..Min.Max.Min.Max.Min.Max.Min.Max.Min.Max

Turns...T1.....[...T2...[......T4....[.....T5....[.....T6....[... Lap Time - By

Race....97..161..87.137..57..116..65..167..96..204 - 1:14.4 - James

Race....91..144..79.128..52..126..68..168..93..205 - 1:17.0 - Chris

Road....76..134..64.100..49..105..34..151..69..187 - 1:20.2 - Josh

Judging by that there is a big difference in corner speeds, but straight line speed actually isn't to bad as thats the difference of the corners and a lot of the time you actually make some of it up. Your biggest improvement's could probably be made on corner entry and mid corner.

edit - left our T3 as there is no real min speed as both of us are still accelerating out of T2

edit - added Chris's lap, shows I need to improve my exit from T4

Edited January 7, 2011 by Jamez

[hybrid 1039]

yeah, I know I have lots more in braking point now .. as I caught myself quite a few time pussying out under brakes. Also the entry points on some corners is a bit lol.

Can only build on it .. ollie did a 1:16.9 yesterday so up on his 1:20.3 from the previous week. Im hoping to do the same as we are fairly matched.

[Greg111 13]

f**k that civic was quick!

[hybrid 1039]

I grab some high temp brake ducting for some brake cooling for the next track day.

Just mocking up the flow from the front bumper intakes.

Bumper intake collectors

[DRTDVL 0]

Do you guys run stone shields?

If so try something like this to help get the air to the center of the hub so it disperses through the vents better:

I figured you would have the people that could knock something like that up for you.

Cooling just the one face of the disc isn't the best idea.

Ultra-ratty looking...

Edited January 22, 2011 by DRTDVL

[E30-323ti 66]

I'm surprised it needs cooling ducts.

Have you had some temp paint on the rotors &/or temp indicators on the calipers to suggest you need them?

Would suggest you get some proper backing plates that get the cooling air into the centre where the vanes in the rotor can pick it up.

Leaving it how you have, will cool the inside rotor face, and may cause more problems (ie. differential pad wear, more stress in the rotor & cracking)

edit:

LoL DRTDVL beat me to it.

DIY:

These are the TMS ones:

Edited January 22, 2011 by E30-323ti

[Greg111 13]

Were you suffering brake fade?

[hybrid 1039]

You guys are quick

Just finishing off the backing plates in CAD hence the mock up for length. Gotta start somewhere. Will post these later when finished. Again from laser cut steel.

I run GT42 rotors which are built a bit differently than the closed surface rotors. Have a look at the photos you will see the rotors have swirled blades to act as a 'fan' extracting air from the center and dispursing it outwards.

While I understand with non vained and solid rotors you get a problem with cold air only on one section of the disc .. the design of these rotors allows for cold airflow to be disapated both sides of the rotors faces.

What you speak of really only effects the non floating kind and those that dont disapate cold air well (cooling only one surface)

Greg, no they arent fading, they infact take a couple of laps to properly come up to temprature. However Im running a medium comp pad which is pretty hard on the rotors with slicks. Air cooling helps sustain more reasonible rotor temprature with an medium endurance race pad.

Fade only occurs when your pad give up / glaze / crack or another type is if you boil your brake fluid and generate air in the lines. Glazing is another cause. Using low grade or standard rotors can also cause fade with rotor craze or cracking due to over heating.

[DRTDVL 0]

A high carbon disc will help with disc wear, also pad brands will wear discs differently it can take some time to get a happy balance between pad wear and disc wear. I know one targa competition that tried 6 different combos before he found a happy balance.

Your discs have a larger than normal center venting area compared to most factory setups, but cooling the inner face will still cause issues, you do really need to get the air flow into the center of the disc to push the air through those large vents that you have.

I know a few guys that use 2 - 4 smaller dia pipes putting air more uniformly around the center of the disc vs the single large duct putting air into a single area.

I would becareful of over cooling the brakes also, especially on the road. It might be worth looking at making some blanking plates for the front intakes for the road, it's more of an issue if your running race/rally pads on the road. A lot of the hill climb guys in the uk run no cooling for the shorter runs to make sure they get the brakes up to temp for the run, they found they where getting issues with over cooling with the ducting on events under 5km.

Edited January 22, 2011 by DRTDVL

[Greg111 13]

You guys are quick

Just finishing off the backing plates in CAD hence the mock up for length. Gotta start somewhere. Will post these later when finished. Again from laser cut steel.

I run GT42 rotors which are built a bit differently than the closed surface rotors. Have a look at the photos you will see the rotors have swirled blades to act as a 'fan' extracting air from the center and dispursing it outwards.

While I understand with non vained and solid rotors you get a problem with cold air only on one section of the disc .. the design of these rotors allows for cold airflow to be disapated both sides of the rotors faces.

What you speak of really only effects the non floating kind and those that dont disapate cold air well (cooling only one surface)

Greg, no they arent fading, they infact take a couple of laps to properly come up to temprature. However Im running a medium comp pad which is pretty hard on the rotors with slicks. Air cooling helps sustain more reasonible rotor temprature with an medium endurance race pad.

Fade only occurs when your pad give up / glaze / crack or another type is if you boil your brake fluid and generate air in the lines. Glazing is another cause. Using low grade or standard rotors can also cause fade with rotor craze or cracking due to over heating.

Oh i didn't realise you had a semi race set up going on.

My M3 rotors are the same with the cooling fins, they're not straight, they also swirl outwards, i must say the factory setup is brilliant, it's never faulted, did you ever think of running an M3 setup?