Silver Fox 43 Report post Posted December 10, 2010 Hell, my last lot were $60 per line, or $360 for the set from Alert, I believe Kayne Barrie has some at a good price at the moment. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gotheschu 1 Report post Posted December 10, 2010 yea I can't afford sht at the moment. got about 120 to spend and Im just trying to decide whats best for the car atm. The brakes are almost useless so ive been focusing on them... Got rotors sorted too. Im thinking of spending most on pads and hope that the current brake lines are ok for a couple of months. Any suggestions? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotwire 352 Report post Posted December 10, 2010 yea I can't afford sht at the moment. got about 120 to spend and Im just trying to decide whats best for the car atm. The brakes are almost useless so ive been focusing on them... Got rotors sorted too. Im thinking of spending most on pads and hope that the current brake lines are ok for a couple of months. Any suggestions? Jack - if the lines are ok (not causing the problem) then they will be fine in the meantime After 3 yrs I am still running standard brake lines - & not run up anyones arse yet. That said - only cause I haven't justified the expense yet. They will be in the pipeline Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gotheschu 1 Report post Posted December 13, 2010 (edited) had my first ever attempt at bleeding brakes today. I think i did o.k. its much better =) its going on the hoist tomorrow so lots of pics to come. ( thanks to jim lovich motors ) dam wheels had to get the FBH solution as they weren't coming off in a hurry. Edited December 13, 2010 by Gotheschu Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E30 325i Rag-Top 2956 Report post Posted December 13, 2010 While you have got the wheels off have a good close look over the flexible hoses with a bright torch or inspection lamp. Check for any cracks, even small fine ones in the hoses, or leaks. If they look all good, don't worry about the braided lines for now. First priority would have to be the pads, second some decent fluid and provided the rotors have plenty of meat on them they should be fine as well. Just a thought - have you got the vented 325i rotors and the bigger calipers to suit, or the solid 320i rotors? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gotheschu 1 Report post Posted December 13, 2010 (edited) While you have got the wheels off have a good close look over the flexible hoses with a bright torch or inspection lamp. Check for any cracks, even small fine ones in the hoses, or leaks. If they look all good, don't worry about the braided lines for now. First priority would have to be the pads, second some decent fluid and provided the rotors have plenty of meat on them they should be fine as well. Just a thought - have you got the vented 325i rotors and the bigger calipers to suit, or the solid 320i rotors? Its getting a full on inspection tomorrow so will find out then. So ill pay some attention to them. Put some motul race brake fluid in today so hope i did it properly.Pads where in pretty good nick like 15 mm still in there. rotors were rusty as **** but already got a set coming for xmas haha =) so that'll be set for the track day. EDIT. Brakes aren't slotted... Edited December 13, 2010 by Gotheschu Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E30 325i Rag-Top 2956 Report post Posted December 13, 2010 EDIT. Brakes aren't slotted...Slotted brakes are different - they have grooves machined into the "faces" which move past the pads, vented discs have holes through the middle, which are visible around the outside edge, between the two faces. The original 320 rotors are "solid" they have no venting holes between the two faces and as a result are thinner, the 325i rotors are vented and so are thicker, which means the calipers which hold and push the pads need to be wider also to fit over the rotor. This is a simple bolt-on upgrade which can be found on TradeMe or from a wreckers for not too many $$$s and would make a difference in terms of the braking, especially for fading at the end of a race. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gotheschu 1 Report post Posted December 13, 2010 haha Thanks John for that explanation!! But yea its on the list! how much would it cost for the 325i calipers? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotwire 352 Report post Posted December 13, 2010 haha Thanks John for that explanation!! But yea its on the list! how much would it cost for the 325i calipers? Don't need to be 325i, all later 320's & a lot of earlier had them as well - yours may well too Non vented was in my experience pre F/L 318's & some early 320's Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver Fox 43 Report post Posted December 13, 2010 Some facelift 318's in my experience as well Grant. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotwire 352 Report post Posted December 13, 2010 Some facelift 318's in my experience as well Grant. Yep, you more on to those than I so obviously 18's right through. That said - the couple of F/L 18's I have had - both been vented Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E30 325i Rag-Top 2956 Report post Posted December 13, 2010 how much would it cost for the 325i calipers?I would say that you can pick them up for about $100 the pair, maybe less for a set that need seals etc, I might even have a ropey pair in the shed that you can have for a box of beers! I would suggest you do it before you get your new rotors, otherwise you would have to buy a vented set when you change the calipers to get any real benefit of the change.I defer to the wisdom of Foxy on what models they came on, the regs say something about "you may fit the vented rotors and bigger calipers from the 325i" so that was where I got that from . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gotheschu 1 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 (edited) So, had it up on a hoist today. =( Wasn't too good, lots of small things to get done. Heres the list. Under Car: Front Rubber Drive Couplings Manual Steering Rack 20mil Front Sway Bar Rust Repair ( I have no clue how the hell to do this although he told me the base instructions ) Left hand Inner Sill Prep all cage Rust under floor ( the guy who did the cage, hasn't preped the under side of the car where he welding the cage in and its starting to rust ) No nuts in the exhuast manifold 3-4 nuts missing and has possibly F**ked the gasket Under Boot Clean spot welds Under Bonnet Rust Repair/ Under battery. New Vaccum hose Also need bushes. Heard they're round 200 for the lot. Replaced a fuse and tacho now WORKS!!!!!! =) Was fun driving it over to east tamaki with no indicators and drivers window. The exhuast gasket sounds so sh*t and makes the being in the car a shitty experience haha. Didn't manage to get any pics though, when it was on the hoist =( Edited December 14, 2010 by Gotheschu Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 (edited) Times that number by atleast 3 or 4 for bushes depending on how wild you go Edited December 14, 2010 by Brams Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
APT 194 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 I could help you out on: Front 20mm sway bar w/urethane bushes New- Powerflex Rear Urethane Bushes New- Noltec M3 Offset CAB bushes Front sway bar is still on my car, and the other bushes ive kept for my car but im going to get something else, will all be available mid Jan. PM me if you're interested. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2154 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 (edited) Yeh, a lot more than $200 for bushes I spent $400 on polyurethane for the whole car (that was cheap as!), add lots of time and swearing for install. If your an absolute legend and dont find any nasty rust etc, bank on 1.5 days labour if youve got a press (and mandrels that fit), you could maybe do it it with a big vice and a FBH, but itll add to swearing/time. I priced up a whole set of whiteline bushes, at trade, it was closer to $1k. Car looks nice BTW, diggin the colour. Edited December 14, 2010 by Jacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 I think I have a set of spare AKG bushes coming on my next order, the guy that wanted them has backed out so you can have them if you want. Will be more than $200 though Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotwire 352 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 Jack you can cross the manual steering rack off the list - not overly necessary. I, & a lot of others, still run the power rack - I have simply removed the belt from the pump. The power rack is a faster rack than the manual so arguably more suited for racing. I have a spare manual rack but have never fitted it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
OLLIE 26 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 I have a manual rack in my car, and previously raced with a power steering rack. I prefered the power steering rack, faster and less turns lock to lock, when I get my A into G i'll put the power rack back in, sans pump etc ... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2132 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 Slotted brakes are different - they have grooves machined into the "faces" which move past the pads, vented discs have holes through the middle, which are visible around the outside edge, between the two faces. The original 320 rotors are "solid" they have no venting holes between the two faces and as a result are thinner, the 325i rotors are vented and so are thicker, which means the calipers which hold and push the pads need to be wider also to fit over the rotor. This is a simple bolt-on upgrade which can be found on TradeMe or from a wreckers for not too many $$$s and would make a difference in terms of the braking, especially for fading at the end of a race. sorry thread hijack.. my twincam (320i in past life) has vented rotors but i rebuilt the calipers and they still stick. i wonder if its because they are the calipers for the nonventer rotors? do you have a part number for either of them? or would the non-vented ones noway cover the vented rotors? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gotheschu 1 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 (edited) WOF guy said that just removing the belt is not WOFable... Because if you had a crash or something and they discovered your power steering was disconnected then they go after the WOF guy for giving a WOF to a power steering car when it didn't work. Not sure if i said that right but im sure glenn will elaborate that. Im thinking just put the power steering back on for everyday stuff and disconnect for racing? Ash - how much =) Andy - Yea, what im doing is Im buying stock rotors for $99 then I have someone is going to help me machine vents into them. Hes running them on his E30 series car with 320i calipers that he's kitted out or something. It'll cost a packa but its cheaper than paying 290 or something for slotted ones. While I know Im not going to up with the good guys for the first maybe 2 seasons but Im almost sure that most of the passing is done under braking so Ive decided I want to put heaps into my brakes in the long run. Lots of good reports of Bendix pads, very expensive but very good.. do you agree? Edited December 14, 2010 by Gotheschu Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DRTDVL 0 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 I wouldn't bother with getting them "Vented" they arn't all that thick and wouldn't work properly... http://bremboaftermarket.com/en/Car_Disc_C...lIDMaster=12735 - 325i = 22mm http://bremboaftermarket.com/en/Car_Disc_C...lIDMaster=12614 - 318i = 12.7mm I think your confusing vented with slotted or cross-drilled. vented vs non-vented: slotted: cross-drilled: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 (edited) You don't need slotted rotors. Vented means something else (as noted elsewhere). (edit) and now I see in a detailed way right there ^ Edited December 14, 2010 by CamB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gotheschu 1 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 No no. The ones, that someone is organizing for me are slotted and vented but for 130 for a front set. So Im happy with that. They are mechanics who say it works so Im keen to try it since its that cheap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
E30 325i Rag-Top 2956 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 The ones, that someone is organizing for me are slotted and vented but for 130 for a front set.That is a good price, will be interesting to see how they go.When you had the wheels off for the check were the existing rotors the thin ones or the thick ones (from DRTDVLs photos)? If they are currently the thin ones you MIGHT have trouble getting the caliper to fit over the new vented (and hence thicker) rotors... that MAY be the problem you are having Andy, especially if the rotors and pads are new-ish and have the full thickness on them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites