Toyota powered, forced inducted S50

[Greg111 13]

This is pretty much a finished project but will post it up anyway.

This is a bit of a read and picture heavy.

The pictures were taken off my phone so some are sh*t, I apolagise.

Ok, where do I start, it was thursday night, Mark, Brett and i were at the pub (thirsty thursday etc), came home half liquered up, decided to have a gander at Bimmersport and happened to see a For Sale thread that came of interest to my liquered self. Next thing I know i've purchaced it.

Yes, pretty obviuos what it is.

Excited to have it arrive at work, I took it home and low and behold, it doesn't fit....bugger.

What to do I thought to myself, I know i'll take the exsisting plenum off (this is what was too big) and mount the charger with some heavily modified brackets (original ones didn't quite work).

Few days later it was mounted.

Please take no notice to the very rough looking brackets, they no longer look like that.

As previously stated, it was evident a new plenum was needed, after visting numerous places and had plenty of estimates for making one (lots of $$$) I remebered that our master tech at work was an excellent aluminium fabricator that has made two very large aluminium boats (large as in 5-6 meter vessels) so the begging began.

Needless to say he came to the party, I paid him of course, a lot cheaper than the other companies and this one would probably be flasher than the others.

Anyway the work began starting with six flanges that bolted to the throttle bodies.

Quite amazed that all he did was look and take a few measurements and they line up perfectly with the outer shape of the throttle.

Next I bought six silicone hoses to go on the throttles.

Next, the front wall of the plenum was made, again just from a few measurements of the engine bay and throttle position etc.

Before the rest could be tacked together we had to come up with some runners, we kept with the same size as the factory ones. The rest of the plenum was then tacked together.

A friend of mine who owns an exhaust shop flared the runners, aluminium can only be flared so much before it cracks so these weren't excessive but they do the job.

We test fitted it then it was all welded up.

And the finished plenum

The kink in it was made to flow with the strut bar

So that was the main bit done, this gives you an idea of what the intake will look like, the tubing here is far to small for my liking so will be using 3" tubing.

Since this engine originally was N/A I had to remove the PCV valve and route the sump breather and rocker cover breather to a catch can.

Then basically just tidying up all the loose ends.

I t'd in the bov vacum hose into the booster system as this was pretty much the only place I could.

There were a few other bits and pieces that were needed to be done then just making it all pretty.

The finished project, well nearly anyway:

The maiden voyage was yesterday, not a lot of difference down low but get to around 3 grand it it pulls right to 7 and a half grand, makes a hell of a racket with the aluminium plenum and runners, awsome noise from the charger, I believe the bov is stuffed though as it makes a terrible rattle/vibrationy noise rather than a ppssshhh noise, perhaps Steve would know?

It had its pre supercharger dyno a few months ago so it will go back this week for the after dyno, wouldn't know how much more it will be producing.

There are a few other minor issues I need sorting but overall pretty happy with it.

Any questions feel free.

Chur.

Edited June 10, 2012 by Greg.

[No name user 379]

hay greg, what does the boost gauge say before 3k? and whats the pulley sizes for crank and blower?

[Greg111 13]

I don't have a boost gauge connected at current so unsure.

The approx sizes are 110mm for the crank, maybe slightly larger as I just measured while on the car and the blower is around 120mm.

[Michael. 2313]

Interesting... although it doesn't seem very M3-esque!

I give you a few weeks until you remove it

[No name user 379]

I don't have a boost gauge connected at current so unsure.

The approx sizes are 110mm for the crank, maybe slightly larger as I just measured while on the car and the blower is around 120mm.

get a gauge on it the pulley size needs to be smaller on the crank thus why there's not a lot below 3k i could be wrong i would really need to see the car up close to how you've layed the rest of it out

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

I assume you will have to get it certed etc? If so, you may run into issues with that catchcan setup because its not supposed to be able to vent to the outside environment, emission sh*t etc. I remember reading about that a few years back when i did my M52 setup as that had the emissions stuff but the M50 wiring and so forth didnt have provision for it. just thoughts without re-research

[polley 916]

I assume you will have to get it certed etc? If so, you may run into issues with that catchcan setup because its not supposed to be able to vent to the outside environment, emission sh*t etc. I remember reading about that a few years back when i did my M52 setup as that had the emissions stuff but the M50 wiring and so forth didnt have provision for it. just thoughts without re-research

Not hard to route it to the intake of supercharger for cert, and remove it afterwards.

[No name user 379]

I assume you will have to get it certed etc? If so, you may run into issues with that catchcan setup because its not supposed to be able to vent to the outside environment, emission sh*t etc. I remember reading about that a few years back when i did my M52 setup as that had the emissions stuff but the M50 wiring and so forth didnt have provision for it. just thoughts without re-research

correct all that's required is to feed the catch can breather back behind the filter into the intake as such that doesn't require any electronics stock or other wise, oil air separator is the better catch can to run

[Greg111 13]

get a gauge on it the pulley size needs to be smaller on the crank thus why there's not a lot below 3k i could be wrong i would really need to see the car up close to how you've layed the rest of it out

The crank is def smaller than the blower pully but not by much.

Also it's not too fond of taking off normally from intersections etc, it bogs down then goes, I suspect it may be running a wee bit lean, will find out soon enough.

Ha Micheal, i'll have my fun then we'll see what happens.

[No name user 379]

The crank is def smaller than the blower pully but not by much.

Also it's not too fond of taking off normally from intersections etc, it bogs down then goes, I suspect it may be running a wee bit lean, will find out soon enough.

Ha Micheal, i'll have my fun then we'll see what happens.

were have you mounted the maf?

[Greg111 13]

Before the charger.

[No name user 379]

Before the charger.

the reason you have a flat spot is due the poor signal the maf gets being that far away try blowing though the maf it can also then compensate for charge air temps

[Greg111 13]

Didn't realise you could blow through them, unfortunately there is no room for the maf to go after the charger as it just has one 90 degree elbow going from the charger to the plenum otherwise i'd be in the shed doing it now.

[No name user 379]

Didn't realise you could blow through them, unfortunately there is no room for the maf to go after the charger as it just has one 90 degree elbow going from the charger to the plenum otherwise i'd be in the shed doing it now.

try this pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure reg start the car DO NOT DRIVE, block the line with your finger and blip the throttle if the response better then either up the fuel pressure with an adjustable reg or get a apexi AFC to alter the maf signal that should remove the flat spot

Edited June 10, 2012 by crunchy

[Greg111 13]

Ok, i'll try that tomorrow at work.

[Garett 103]

When you drove it did you have a pod filter on the air flow meter? if not that will make it run a bit weird. Are you running it off the clutch via a floor switch? are you running any one way valves for the idle actuator plumbed in after the meter.

Edited June 10, 2012 by Garett

[Greg111 13]

Just the air flow meter as i haven't made up the proper intake system yet.

Running an on off button for now.

[Garett 103]

Its looking like a pretty cool set up, i want one of those intake manifolds with throttle bodies...

[Greg111 13]

It certainly made very well, gives it an awsome noise the old alloy.

[Neal 544]

Cool Project !

[Greg111 13]

When you drove it did you have a pod filter on the air flow meter? if not that will make it run a bit weird. Are you running it off the clutch via a floor switch? are you running any one way valves for the idle actuator plumbed in after the meter.

The idle valve hose goes straight into the plenum, seems fairly happy how it is.

[BM WORLD 1283]

looks like fun ,

my S/C set up is a bit like that , will bog down etc .

and no much power difference untill the revs come up.

runs at about 4pounds

its running lean, then when boost gets up it goes super rich ,

i have one of those varible fuel pressure regs hooked up to it

(vortech brand) ,

but i think it might be a bit crude.

one day i will get it tuned up properly.

build details here

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=35844

Edited June 10, 2012 by Brent HARTGE535i

[No name user 379]

looks like fun ,

my S/C set up is a bit like that , will bog down etc .

and no much power difference untill the revs come up.

runs at about 4pounds

its running lean, then when boost gets up it goes super rich ,

i have one of those varible fuel pressure regs hooked up to it

(vortech brand) ,

but i think it might be a bit crude.

one day i will get it tuned up properly.

totally different type of blower brent you cant compare

[Greg111 13]

Talked to a forced induction/cosworth guru in town today, gonna have a co2 test tomorrow, I think the reason for the bogging down is when the blower is switched on and the engine is idling it's putting a few pounds of air out the bov, for some odd reason the bov is open at idle, touch the go pedal and it quickly shuts, I thought if I plumbed the bov back into the air intake before the blower that would help it???

[No name user 379]

Talked to a forced induction/cosworth guru in town today, gonna have a co2 test tomorrow, I think the reason for the bogging down is when the blower is switched on and the engine is idling it's putting a few pounds of air out the bov, for some odd reason the bov is open at idle, touch the go pedal and it quickly shuts, I thought if I plumbed the bov back into the air intake before the blower that would help it???

A b/v open at idle generates a larger than normal maf signal thus the car runs richer, its engine vacuum thats opening the b/v airflow for the blower is controlled by throttle opening thus when they are closed no boost you need to plumb the b/v back between the maf and the blower thus the maf wont see the air leak.

Having the blower switched on all the time makes no odds as turbos/blowers that are directly driven all the time again the throttle regulates the boost adjust the top screw on the b/v until its just closed at idle and see what that does for it remember the stock ecu/dme has no idea what boost means but it does pickup on any air leaks.