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M5 540i V8 V12 Flywheel & Clutch Upgrade

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Good news! Autoclutch in West Auckland have been able to resurface my existing clutch plate as it's in good condition. Steel backed and carbon impregnated compound that is rated for upto 450HP applications. I'll be picking this up along with my resurfaced flywheel. Once back on the car I will post some details around the discussed possible hydraulic system/release mechanism clearances. Fingers crossed for a test drive by Sunday afternoon.

Point worth mentioning:
- they noted the remaining clutch disk thickness was low and now would have contributed to decreased pressure plate clamping load. Then again my continual use of the car may account for this wear with pre-loaded clutch.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Edited by GTgenie

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Good news! Autoclutch in West Auckland have been able to resurface my existing clutch plate as it's in good condition. Steel backed and carbon impregnated compound that is rated for upto 450HP applications. I'll be picking this up along with my resurfaced flywheel. Once back on the car I will post some details around the discussed possible hydraulic system/release mechanism clearances. Fingers crossed for a test drive by Sunday afternoon.

Point worth mentioning:

- they noted the remaining clutch disk thickness was low and now would have contributed to decreased pressure plate clamping load. Then again my continual use of the car may account for this wear with pre-loaded clutch.

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

You will want to do some carefull measuring before you shorten your slave cylinder piston, if that is still your plan, you dont want to make it too short and not be able to fully disengage the clutch.

My car has had this conversion also, but i am unsure exactly what master/ slave/ release bearing combo it ended up with, so i can't help much unfortunately.

Good luck. :)

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Let the resin burn off in this one before loading it up this time. Take note of what Wil said you're driving a 1700kg car with a modified clutch compound. (not factory metal based clutch) Break in period is paramount. That includes 0 slipping/riding at all even at traffic lights. Even the smallest bit will build up resin on the clutch plate as you have in your photos before its had a chance to carbon up properly.

I have the same clutch setup in my e30 (from the same manufacture), albeit my car is a lot lighter, but I have another 40 odd more HP it was painful to drive carefully as all I wanted to do after I did my conversion is go for a hoon.

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Once back on the car I will post some details around the discussed possible hydraulic system/release mechanism clearances.

Yesssssss !!!

Edited by will

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I had the rear main crankshaft seal /gasket installed clutch and flywheel in plus transmission loosely mounted for testing the slave cylinder. Following this while beginning with bleeding the clutch from slave cylinder I have ended u with air in the entire system. I will be purchasing a new oil canister to attempt reverse bleeding the system.

I have tried :

- open bleed niple, suppress clutch, close nipple (repeat x20)

- suppress and release clutch x10 and leaving suppressed, open bleed nipple close (repeat x20)

- remove slave and fill with fluid. Put back on car attempt bleed.

- self bleed system with pressure tank on top reservoir, open bleed nipple

only air coming out with most methods. Reservoir has been fulled at all times with someone watching .

Fun fun fun! :-@

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Surprisingly reverse bleeding has done the trick. I've had the car back on the road with no leaks or strange noises or smells (finally!). As an initial test without shortening the slave piston I've stacked a few washers between it and the transmission mount point. The pedal now has some slack at the top of the pedal unlike the original setup it was returned to me in. I've been driving it through traffic daily looking for signs of failure but so far so good.

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Also I installed a short shift kit :-P feels great but definitely feels cheap. FYI if you guys don't mind the cheap Bush clank the $30 shifter kit on eBay is an average buy. Definitely shortened my throw distances. I can now put a drink in my cup holder without knocking it over when shifting to reverse gear :-D

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Those shifters are terrible. I used the Z3 1.9 shifter on my manual conversion

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Also I installed a short shift kit :-P feels great but definitely feels cheap. FYI if you guys don't mind the cheap Bush clank the $30 shifter kit on eBay is an average buy. Definitely shortened my throw distances. I can now put a drink in my cup holder without knocking it over when shifting to reverse gear :-D Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

Wait, your cupholder works? ;)

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Wait, your cupholder works? ;)

Correction: whatever I rest against my remaining half an arm :lol:

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

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Correction: whatever I rest against my remaining half an arm :lol:

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

The taiwanese cheapo ones on trademe are way better than the BMW ones ever were! B)

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Did anything more come of this clutch kit or was it all put in the too hard basket, as i am on the hunt for an affordable v8 clutch kit at the moment

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Did anything more come of this clutch kit or was it all put in the too hard basket, as i am on the hunt for an affordable v8 clutch kit at the moment

I would be in for a flywheel if someones had one machined up.

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Hi all. First off thanks for all the feedback above. For me each reply was constructive and helpful.

6 months later I can report:

- no clutch slip at all. Done 5000kms+ now (unlike before where 1000kms in I had failures). I've driven it to rotorua, tauranga, paihia and around the coromandals during these holidays.

Just took the car for a short drive to refresh my feeling of the setup and...

- once I take off throughout the gears it feels good on engagement with a strong solid change and holds the power of my stock setup perfectly fine. Enough clamping force to chirp the wheels if you shift it fast enough.

- clutch engagement very rarely at take off can sometimes judder if you feather the clutch off for a smooth take off. downshifts are fine. I'd have to say this has improved and I suppose it's either a result of not perfectly bedding clutch surfaces (again?) or the fact that I did notice the teeth of the clutch plate which slides over the transmission spline had a small amount of play compared to the fit of my OEM M5 clutch plate that is designed for use with a DMF. Or my own theory (but take it with a grain of salt as I'm no clutch expert) the clutch disk being larger is gripping, to the surface easily, the play in the spline catches up to the teeth and jerks the clutch disk causing a hopping/ skipping symptom. The symptoms have improved over time since install.

- Reversing up an incline is very easy to cause clutch to burn. It's obviously more prone due to the higher gearing bUT i try to avoid it if i can at all times. Also judder here is more noticeable.

I wouldn't mind dropping the trans once more just to see the surface of the flywheel and view the wear characteristics. If anyone is keen to find out and has a hoist let me know.

Edited by GTgenie

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Awesome thanks thorburn. The only problem is I don't have a factory flywheel to give them measurements from

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The clutch was bedded in on stop and go traffic driving too and from city 50km return each day. Reving low enough to cause the car to almost or actually stall on occasion. The car has so much torque you can use the idle power to take off on most flat surfaces wit clutch fully disengaged before getting on throttle. The judder was present in the rare chances there was a slight bit too much rpm and clutch fethering. I must stress tho that it was very rare. After all this effort I didn't want to waste all my efforts. Any one have experiences with driving shifting characteristics of a heavy duty clutch?

Edited by GTgenie

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Bedding in clutches is bullshit. By the time you've backed it out of the shed and on to the road it's knocked any high spots off and you're ready to romp on it.

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Funny you say that polley, when i recieved the resurfaced clutch from autoclutch i was told to give it some decent pulls after install to "wear it in" correctly given its properties. Spinning it while just resting freely on the flywheel surface on the bench he showed me the lever of grip from the new pad compound compared to what ca me off. I still nursed it through its first 1000kms just because of all feedback suggesting to do so at most places. Overall if the reverse judder smooths out I'll be totally happy. As it is if I reverse on an incline It bites releases bites releases bites releases. To overcome that means rev higher. Which means smooth reverse but burn clutch.

Edited by GTgenie

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Awesome thanks thorburn. The only problem is I don't have a factory flywheel to give them measurements from

I got an old m60 dual mass you can use as a pattern. Currently has a m62 ring gear fudged onto it though.

When you talk to the engineer he'll likely need a ring gear from something. An auto flex-plate should work?

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I'll check the flex late I have here but I'm pretty sure they are one piece, I guess you could carefully cut the ring gear off in a lathe maybe.

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Yeah they are 1 piece and would have to be cut off. He'll also need to decide if he's using M60 or 62.

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