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BreakMyWindow

E39 M5 restoration project Version 2.0

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1 hour ago, BreakMyWindow said:

New tyres on and much better with basically no tramlining. 
 

great to hear Martin. Mine must be alignment related. Will get it re looked at when the guys who did mine attempt to straighten the steering wheel for the third time. 

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Where did you go for the tyre fitting?

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Ordered a new gen bmw hvac panel with button set. There was a label warning to not use the panel, just use the individual buttons...lol...

The old panel had broken plastic around the heating buttons, so even new ones wouldn’t stay in. All went pretty smoothly once I worked out how to snap in the circuit board without disturbing the fiddly little spring bushes. At the same time I vacuumed out all the dust around the air sampling fan.

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nice mate, look really good - i need to vacuum my air sampler vent also

i needed to replce some button some time ago, i ended up buying a dead unti from a wrecker. Worked out you can pop the buttons off from the poutside by push Up and Out  gently on the bottom of  the button you want to replace. after reading horry sotries of little tab and actuators popping out i was happy not to go down that route.

 

Love bring these older interior back to new aye

 

 

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New rear brake discs and pads today. Tried to adjust the handbrake by making 3 clicks on the lever fully lock the wheels but made no improvement over before. Bloody mission of a job fighting the friction of the lsd with wheels off the ground, so had to keep fitting the wheels back on to test how much brake the shoes are applying. Conclusion drawn is that the cables are stretched and that’s something i’m not keen on getting into so a bit of man handle on the lever for the shoes to fully brake will have to do.

 

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There is adjustment on the cables up by the handbrake lever, did you loosen them off BEFORE adjusting the shoes?

If not go back and loosen them off then adjust the handbrake shoes and finally adjust the cables.

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26 minutes ago, Kiwi_BMW said:

There is adjustment on the cables up by the handbrake lever, did you loosen them off BEFORE adjusting the shoes?

If not go back and loosen them off then adjust the handbrake shoes and finally adjust the cables.

Yes, followed the official bmw adjustment procedure. I managed to get a bit of an improvement by driving for about 400m with the handbrake on at about 40km/h.

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Personally ive never seen a cable stretch on any car but seizing or binding happens sometimes. Sanding coarse or replace the brake shoes along with rotors usually fixes cars ive had it the cables are free.

What was the handbrake like before you did the rotors? Is it holding evenly on both sides on?

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1 hour ago, Eagle said:

Personally ive never seen a cable stretch on any car but seizing or binding happens sometimes. Sanding coarse or replace the brake shoes along with rotors usually fixes cars ive had it the cables are free.

What was the handbrake like before you did the rotors? Is it holding evenly on both sides on?

It would keep the car still on a decent hill if you yanked on the handle. Probably 8-10 clicks. After “re-bedding” in the shoes I can now get the same effect pulling the handle up 6 clicks. In hindsight I should have probably fitted new shoes but the existing looked fine, just covered in rusty brake dust. 

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Quite an expensive paddock basher!

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1 hour ago, Sammo said:

Quite an expensive paddock basher!

They loved it... gave mine a plough but my points for style not as impressive...

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On 2/2/2021 at 8:25 PM, BreakMyWindow said:

It would keep the car still on a decent hill if you yanked on the handle. Probably 8-10 clicks. After “re-bedding” in the shoes I can now get the same effect pulling the handle up 6 clicks. In hindsight I should have probably fitted new shoes but the existing looked fine, just covered in rusty brake dust. 

Done the same, new rotors tried to get away with existing shoes, adjusted numerous times, needed new shoes to resolve.

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Time for some maintenance in the engine bay. Leaking valve cover gaskets and a good attempt to sort an intermittent engine rattle that comes and goes and has been there since owning the car.

Thought the timing might be slightly off but it was perfect, but did notice the main chain sprocket on the b1 intake came was off by 1 tooth compared to b2. Vanos should compensate for this easily, but it just meant that the intake cam couldn’t reach its full range of travel on advancement. Certainly didn’t feel down on power but good to correct this while it’s apart. Suspect po’s engine builder got this wrong and i did not notice way back when I refurbished the vanos units. 

The secondary air pump line bracket on b1 was loose due to the threads in the upper chain cover being stripped out. I think that may have caused the rattling but will have to see when it’s back on the road.

4 new cps’s to go in and a set of fresh plugs and filters. I forgot how much of a c u n t changing cps’s out on the s62.

Ordered a new alternator too as the lights were flickering at idle and bearings starting to get grumbly. New belts and idler pulleys to boot also. 
 

Good to see after nearly 6 years of ownership it’s still very clean inside and the chain guides are mint.

 

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Slow progress getting it back on road. All parts arrived to be able to fully re-assemble, but noticed that there was evidence of leaking from one of the plenum oil return hoses. Being that all 3 were original 1999 date coded parts along with the radiator, hoses and fan clutch I decided to renew all of these given their age and reluctance to have to re-visit working on this engine any time soon. So another week or 2 and those parts should arrive. In the mean time i’ve fitted all new idler pulleys, new gen bmw alternator, replaced the ac pulley clutch bearing and re-installed the bank 1 upper chain cover.

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Bit more fiddling with vanos stuff. Adjusted the cam timing so that the alignment marks are perfect. The efforts paid off as the vanos tests now consistently pass. Below are pics of how making the slightest adjustments affect the test results. 
 

Also fitted a new radiator and renewed all the front coolant hoses.

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Wof time. Replaced all 6 brake hoses and did a fluid flush with some fancy motul stuff. Good piece of mind replacing the hoses that are down near the exhaust headers.

 

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I've been trying to chase an annoying rattle coming from the engine bay when giving it some jandal since I bought this car in 2015. I had literally been through everything I could think of including opening up the engine, checking timing, bleeding lifters, compression test etc etc.

It turn out the rattle was coming from loose exhaust manifold nuts FFS. lol. Of the 4 nuts i could access on bank 1, 2 were quite loose, and one wasn't even finger tight. I still need to check the other 4 nuts but for now the rattle has completely gone. This is a very good example of troubleshooting from the most complex and expensive part first and working your way back to the easiest and cheapest, which is very wrong. I feel like a F*cking plonker, but at the same time I'm very happy!

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Plonker...

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On 5/3/2022 at 11:19 AM, BreakMyWindow said:

I've been trying to chase an annoying rattle coming from the engine bay when giving it some jandal since I bought this car in 2015. I had literally been through everything I could think of including opening up the engine, checking timing, bleeding lifters, compression test etc etc.

It turn out the rattle was coming from loose exhaust manifold nuts FFS. lol. Of the 4 nuts i could access on bank 1, 2 were quite loose, and one wasn't even finger tight. I still need to check the other 4 nuts but for now the rattle has completely gone. This is a very good example of troubleshooting from the most complex and expensive part first and working your way back to the easiest and cheapest, which is very wrong. I feel like a F*cking plonker, but at the same time I'm very happy!

That process sounds familiar 🤗

awesome you eventually solved it! 

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