E30 Touring M52 Swap

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

So in conclusion, check to see if you can get a 22mm socket in your shock mounts before ordering Konis, otherwise you're probably better off going the Bilstein route.

Just a design fk up or some other reason? does seem strange if they are an OEM-equivelent part.

or are you using 4cylinder top hats (45mm type) with 51mm 6 cylinder struts??

Edited January 23, 2016 by _Ethrty-Andy_

[nick496 268]

I think it's a design f**k up. I suspect they looked at the new strut mounts you can get, and decided they can get away with leaving the thread like that (cost savings on Koni's end I would guess). As I just purchased new strut mounts and it all fit fine.

Looking on realoem, it's not showing any difference in part numbers for a 4 vs 6 cyclinder, and I didn't think there was a difference aside from just the strut.

I aside from the new mounts, just used everything that the touring already had, which should just be the normal 51mm stuff.

Realoem says that part number 31331139452 for the strut mounts superseded 31331124508 which ran until '95, so maybe that was when the design in width occurred? Who knows...

[nick496 268]

So had the struts fully assembled ready to pop in, but the mounts wouldn't line up.

The distances between the 3 studs on the new mounts were all 100mm apart

I measured the stud distance between my old mounts, 100mm, 100mm, 90mm.

This is the same on the chassis for both the 320i touring, and also a 325i sedan (also facelift)

Part number for the new mounts is 31331139452, which comes back as the correct part number... so not sure what is going on here.

Any ideas? Not keen to go around drilling my strut towers.

At this stage ready to return all the parts I've purchased so far, and get some Bilstein inserts.

Edited January 23, 2016 by nick496

[e30ftw 410]

Did you turn them the right way? They only fit one way.

[nick496 268]

I did rotate them, though the new ones I got are symmetrical, so it doesn't matter which way you rotate them.

Obviously the e30s strut holes aren't symmetrical, so somethings not right with the mount?

Will draw a picture later on tonight.

[e30ftw 410]

Probably E36 ones

[APT 195]

So just a heads up for anyone looking to purchase Koni shocks for their E30, I would advise checking your front mounts can take a 22mm socket.

I ordered a set of 8641 1021SPORT shocks for the front, and had issues installing them, due to them using a M14 nut, as opposed to an M12, like my set in a previous car.

12562551_10205109216201772_1308860763_o.jpg

Old vs New

I suspect the old shock was a red Koni, but there were no markings on it to confirm.

Anywho, so I got the M14 nut on with no issues, using the existing shock mount.

12596970_10205109224281974_116296603_o.jpg

But when I went to tighten it, I couldn't get a 22mm socket in there

12562583_10205109225842013_1619849490_o.jpg

I did try with a filed down socket, but that didn't work either.

Ended up contacting Gavin at Euro Italian, and we got out our rulers over the phone, and order a set of new front mounts.

Here are the new mounts, 22mm socket fits in fine.

12546273_10205109839817362_397988602_o.jpg

So in conclusion, check to see if you can get a 22mm socket in your shock mounts before ordering Konis, otherwise you're probably better off going the Bilstein route.

This happend to me when installing my Bilsteins, I just machined down a socket carefully and it worked a treat.

Edit: Just saw your having problems with top hats, i ran through this problem last year. You've probably got E36 Top hats like John said above, All E30 factory top hats run the smaller holes so the only real way to use them is by grinding down a socket.

E36's run both size top hats, I think it might be a 4 vs 6 cyl thing.

Edited January 25, 2016 by APT

[nick496 268]

So it's been a while since I've updated this.

E30 sat like this for about a month while I got this all sorted

Ended up sending back the Koni's and the mounts, and getting a set of Bilstein B12s (Bilstein B8's with Eibach springs)

Opened the box and was already more impressed with the Bilstein's coming with all the requires bits

-Top nut

-Dust boot

-Something to hold the dust boot

-Strut locking collar

Old springs were stock 325i springs. So some height differences

Fronts:

Rears:

Finally the fronts all ready to go in. Looking a bit odd with black and blue.

And checked out my rear spring pads from the PO. Will be keeping them like this for now.

Then some before and afters:

Before (stock 325i sedan springs)

After (Bilstein B12 sedan)

So definitely not the most noticeable of height differences, but the handling has substantially improved. (Probably due to 3 of the 4 shocks needed replaced)

Then managed to get the WOF (a month later)

Also started cleaning the M52 a bit more.

Mmmm under the oil filter housing

And then the rocker cover (those bubbles are actually just build up)

Mmm delicious

Edited March 6, 2016 by nick496

[nick496 268]

Then today meet up with the guys in Auckland for their monthly coffee meet.

Top bunch you lot. So will be up again once the swap is done.

And had a good chat with Graham, and then went to see the Brit and Euro classic show at Elsmore Park with Scott. And ran into some of the other guys on the way there.

Saw a few dream cars.

But more importantly, prior to the meet, managed to pinch a Renault Clio brake booster out of a car at Pick-A-Part.

Was surprised that they:

A: Had a Renault there

B: Someone else hadn't already pinched it for their engine swap.

So was pretty stocked with that.

I also learned that I should google how to remove the booster before wasting 20 minutes trying to pull it out through the engine bay (which you basically need to removal the intake manifold for)

Turns out those clever people decided the whole pedal box should be completely removable from inside the car, so once that was unbolted, just pull the pedal box and the brake booster into the car. Easy as.

What was not clever however, was the idea that the air intake be held on by male torx bolts at the front, and standard 10mm at the back.

(Mostly because I didn't bring my female torx socket set with me). But hey, it's pick a part, so I just ripped it off.

[zero 1162]

Wierd how the stock springs look thicker than the aftermarket ones.......

[nick496 268]

Newer, stronger materials perhaps? From what I read, the spring rates are only slightly higher than stock.

[Jibs05 86]

I spotted the booster in your boot haha also the mrs wants yo wheels!

Nice work!

[nick496 268]

I spotted the booster in your boot haha also the mrs wants yo wheels!

Nice work!

Cheers Jibs

Nah, love the ACS wheels, lots easier to clean the the weaves

As a bit fun, went to a Motokhana hosted by the Hamilton Car Club.

Steadily improved on my times, but have a long way to go, since a 318ti auto beat my total times by 10 seconds.

And the gent who won the event for the day was in a mini, who's total times were 26 seconds faster.

Still a good time, and will definitely be looking to do more events.

And since you guys would probably like a laugh, here are some videos (excuse the portrait mode, I wasn't filming)

https://youtu.be/JeXaatpLY7I

https://youtu.be/0SxkzKoMX8Y

[adro 1083]

Hi Nick,

Where did you get your B12's from?

[nick496 268]

I ordered mine through DC Performance.

http://www.dcperformance.co.uk/improve/uprated-suspension/suspension-kits.html

Shipped straight from the factory.

Though when you add all the costs together, might pay to see if you can get it through a local supplier.

[adro 1083]

Cool, thanks.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[nick496 268]

Can anyone help me out with quick question?

Managed to get hold of a different oil filter housing with the nicer hex plugs.

Spent the afternoon cleaning it up, and then went to mount it up.

However comparing it to the original, it doesn't have the non-return valve.

Is that valve critical for the M52?

[nick496 268]

So since no one got back to me, figured I would be better off using the one that had the oil stop value, as this is supposed to help reduce wear on the engine by stopping the oil floating down to the sump while the engine is off. (Correct me if I'm wrong)

Had a busy weekend:

Replaced the o-rings in the oil filter housing with fresh ones, so that should keep it leak free for many years.

While cleaning the oil filter housing, I noticed it to be rattling as I tilted it around, so figured it must be the oil filter...

Took it all out, and not only had it not been changed for several years (I suspect since late 2012 based on the ownership of the E36), it was also the wrong filter (for the plastic housing).

Here it is next to the new one:

Yes, that is sludge caught in the filter (that was shorter and didn't sit correctly around the pipe)

And today was spent swapping the sump, and attaching the oil filter housing.

M52 Sump vs E34 sump:

Reference back to page 1:

Lol, that is my old M50 sump that I sold with the E30 shell, if its a same pickup you will want to make sure its free from metal shards

I spent about 30 minutes cleaning that pickup Jamez....

And here it is all attached:

Then had to get rid of this rear baffle attached to the M52 so that the sump would sit flat

This week should be pretty busy getting the engine all prepped.

Aim is to have the engine out on ANZAC day, then the M52 in the following weekend.

[zero 1162]

Great progress.

Holy crap that oil filter was bad!

[nick496 268]

And so begins the journey.

Fairly busy weekend, Andy was nice enough to drop off an exhaust for me.

I replaced all the seals on an E36 steering rack, more because I could rather than because it needed to be done. (So hopefully it is leak free)

Here is is in pieces::

Managed to get the M20 out with no issues. (Didn't forget to disconnect anything)

And of course the classic "in the engine bay shot". Or as my friend always states "Another BMW powered by hopes and dreams"

Had it all out before 12PM.

Then went to split the gearbox, someone had clearly been at it prior.

-Mix of Hex and Torx bolts for the gearbox to the engine

-End of Torx bolts rounded off due to the incorrect sizing

-Rounded out bolt that holds the clutch to the flywheel

Aim is to have the M52 in next weekend, so that will be a good challenge.

Edited April 25, 2016 by nick496

[hybrid 1043]

Can anyone help me out with quick question?

Managed to get hold of a different oil filter housing with the nicer hex plugs.

IMG_20160410_153740.jpg

Spent the afternoon cleaning it up, and then went to mount it up.

However comparing it to the original, it doesn't have the non-return valve.

IMG_20160410_153205.jpg

Is that valve critical for the M52?

The new one is an s50 oil filter housing ? If so its missing the oil thermostat. You need either the thermostat or bypass valve which will divert 100% of the oil to the cooler.

I use an external thermostat as I modified mine to bypass the stock themo as it was causing flow issues. I now have rock stable oil pressure.

mine

http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/24294-operation-weapons-grade/page-37#entry588597

[nick496 268]

Interesting read. I just ended up going with the one that came with the engine (the dirty one) after replacing the o-rings. So should be fine.

Edited April 25, 2016 by nick496

[nick496 268]

So got the M20 flywheel machined down.

The engineer pointed out that I likely have a crack in it:

Took it to get the face machined down at the Clutch shop, and they reckon it looks to be manufactured that way, and can't see it running along the tooth.

Common enough?

[nick496 268]

Last night went up to Auckland to swap the Getrag 240 M20 box I had for an M40 one. (Cheers Ross)

Turns out that the "M40" box is actually an M42 box, hence all the differences.

Information is a little bit harder to find on the differences between them, so figured I'd share my findings.

Both of these are from FL cars.

So the M42 box has it's prop shaft sticking out further than the M20

(M42 top, M20 bottom)

View from behind, very similar

(M20 right, M42 left)

Here is where you can easily see the difference between the bellhousing and the box.

Note the line running down the middle of the gearbox in relation to that top mounting hole

M42

M20

The M42 also has a locating pin on the belhousing face, so I may need to drill that out/grind it off.

Edit: I didn't have to.

Edit: It's an M42 box, so making corrections here.

Edited May 13, 2016 by nick496

[nick496 268]

So busy weekend.

Installed the E36 steering rack. Using a Holden Barina steering shaft to modify to bolt up to the E30 steering column.

Picture of the inside of the valve cover all cleaned up

Swapped the Renault Clio brake booster in.

What people don't seem to tell you about the swap is that you need to clear a bit of space around the sound deadening, this is due to the clio is a bit flatter on the rear, so doesn't have as much clearance.

So brake boosters:

And the sound deadening before:

And after:

While I had everything out, figured I should take a look for all that E30 rust.

Just some slight rust on the battery tray.

Spent today trying to mate the engine and the gearbox together. Wasn't sliding together after 3 hours, so f**k it, I'll just pull it together using the bolts. And this was the result. Buggered pilot bearing

Turns out the gearbox pivot bearing wasn't fully aligned, and so while the gearbox spline was mating with the clutch, the main shaft wasn't going into the pilot bearing.

Got that pulled out, and purchased 2 more replacement ones (Murphy's law). Then on the second go, mated up with no issues.

And got the engine all ready to go in.

And after much heaving and hoing:

Wasn't a particularly fun job, as BMW engines sit on a nice lean, and we'd initially strapped the engine up with the value cover pointing at 12 O'Clock. So getting the engine arms onto the mounts was not very easy. Had to adjust the strap with the engine reading on the front cross member :/

Teared a good chunk of sound deadening off the transmission tunnel, and broke my shifter arm.

So if anyone has a spare (Not sure if it matters which one), please let me know.

This weekend's fun adventure is getting it all wired in.