e28 Stereo Advice

[eliongater 718]

Hi guys, looking for some advice regarding the stereo in my e28. Currently I have an ok sony headunit (CD, FM, AUX, front and rear out RCA), two stock 6x4 and two sony 6x9 that came with the car (I'm not planning on using these). My car does not have the premium sound package so I only have 2 6x4 speaker mounts in the kick panel and 2 in the parcel shelf (these are empty).

I would like to keep everything looking as close to stock/OEM+ as possible, so no cutting of major components or irreversible changes. The headunit is fine for now, but the speakers need an upgrade.

I'm looking at buying:

• 5 Channel amp
• Small, maybe 10" sub to go under the rear seat
• 2x 6x4 component/plate style speakers (or equivelant individual speakers)
• 2x 6x4 speakers, probably coaxial, but could be component or individual speakers with a premium parcel shelf grill
• Most likely 2 tweeters (probably on the a pillars)

My budget won't be super high, but I'd like to buy a few quality component rather than lots of average ones. I can also space the buying out, but the amp would need to come first, followed by some 6x4s

Thanks

[zero 1162]

Sounds like a good plan.

If you are going for as close a stock look, is a sub an essential?

Obviously if most of your music is drum and bass then it makes sense.

I have installed good 6.5inch components in the front of my wifes e46, and good 6.5's on the rear tray and have got good sound quality with plenty of bass and volume.

I didn't need to install a sub.

Each pair has their own amp (older alpines) which sound better than alot of new amps for a fraction the price.

I modded the front door speaker mounts and cut into the door to greatly improve the sound, but you shouldnt have to do that on the e28 as I think your speakers mount into the door, and not the door card like on the e46;

After all of this I used sound deadener all over, including filling all the holes in the door except the water drain holes, and it made a good improvement.

To save money you can use foil backed waterproofing materials from bunnings instead of dynamat as they are almost identical and much cheaper.

[eliongater 718]

I can fit a small sub under the rear seat which keeps the stock look and boot space.

I think I've decided on Polk MM461p's to go up front and then depending on how much some rear premium enclosures are I'll look at either some 5.25" or 4x6 coaxials for the parcel shelf.

[zero 1162]

My advice would be to use the same brand and series of speakers in the back as in the front.

A different size is fine, but its important to keep the sound signature the same.

[eliongater 718]

I also need to figure out the power aerial wiring

[BM WORLD 1283]

I also need to figure out the power aerial wiring

skinny white cable needs power from the blue cable from your stereo

[Xcel 7]

I don't think it's necessary to keep the brands the same throughout, I've exchanged tweeters that were too harsh for different brands without any trouble and have always used a different brand of sub.

An important thing to consider is matching your amps to the speakers. I try to go for a bit more RMS (ignore max) amplifier power than the speakers are rated for so you can deliver them clean sound without clipping. Unfortunately you're probably not going to find many decent options in the way of 6x4 speakers, but if you do get the Polk's you'd probably want to send them around 75w rms each. There are a large number of options for subs but it really comes down to what music you like to listen to because it's easy to go overkill in that department.

Once you get more audio power you will start to create rattles in the car so sound deadening becomes important, especially if you are using your doors as an enclosure.

Keep in mind your enclosure determines the quality of the bass from the speakers so you may not get much midbass from the doors.

[zero 1162]

I don't think it's necessary to keep the brands the same throughout, I've exchanged tweeters that were too harsh for different brands without any trouble and have always used a different brand of sub.

Its not necessary, but does definitely create a better sound.

The sound signature is important if you are going for sound quality.

Amps have their own sound signature too, and its important that they match too if using more than one amp.

But I agree on amplifier power - in the home and the car systems I have built I generally go for twice the amplifier rms, than the speaker rms.

This gives more of a 'controlled' sound.

[moktar 7]

Hey, Ive just gone down this road and found that the front two 6x4's in the kick panel have very little space for a larger sized magnet. I could only find one set of shallow mount fusions :-/ that would fit without modding the mounts. After trying multiple brands. Fusion was my last pick but they fit good and sound alright.

You will find that the bonnet release lever will get in the way of the speaker covers on passenger side and the side of the dash on the drivers side.

With a bit of pushing and shoving these fit the best and look pretty nice.

Ill post some photo and the Fusion part number once i get home if you would like?

[Xcel 7]

Its not necessary, but does definitely create a better sound.

The sound signature is important if you are going for sound quality.

Amps have their own sound signature too, and its important that they match too if using more than one amp.

But I agree on amplifier power - in the home and the car systems I have built I generally go for twice the amplifier rms, than the speaker rms.

This gives more of a 'controlled' sound.

As long as you're running the same speakers front and rear on the same amp, it shouldn't matter what brands you choose for either. Same for the sub which could easily be a different brand too. It might sound slightly different to having the same brands but it won't sound bad.

[zero 1162]

As long as you're running the same speakers front and rear on the same amp, it shouldn't matter what brands you choose for either. Same for the sub which could easily be a different brand too. It might sound slightly different to having the same brands but it won't sound bad.

I'm not saying you should use the same brand speakers and amp.

I'm saying for the best result you should use the same brand and series (different series sound different) of speakers front to back, just like you would left to right.

And if using more than one amp, use the same and series for best results.

For example you wouldn't use a different sounding speaker and amp for the left channel than the ones on the right.

[Xcel 7]

I'm not saying you should use the same brand speakers and amp.

I'm saying for the best result you should use the same brand and series (different series sound different) of speakers front to back, just like you would left to right.

And if using more than one amp, use the same and series for best results.

For example you wouldn't use a different sounding speaker and amp for the left channel than the ones on the right.

Ah yep I agree with that My last system had Pioneer premium 6x9 in the rear and Resonant Engineering components in the front. It wasn't a bad sounding setup but you could hear some tonal difference if you had one ear to the front and one to the rear.

@OP If you're willing to get a mounting adapter for some 5.25" components or even 6.5" and finish them to match your interior trim I think that would be the most ideal solution.

[Neal 544]

I'd look to see if Dayton RS series speakers would fit such as a 5.25s driver up front. Build adaptors and use e30 speaker grills which would keep it looking factory up front.

If you can get the hifi rear enclosures then you'll have more choice with rears.

To keep costs down run the front speakers active and use you head unit to power rear speakers. 4.1 amps also tend to be a premium so you can often get a four channel plus 1 channels for roughly the same price yet have more power and headroom for the same price. You'd also find that running class d on bass will be easier overall on the e28 electrics

Eg

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/amplifiers/mono-1-channel/auction-1011992998.htm

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-stereos/amplifiers/4-channel/auction-1011992564.htm

Front components if they can be made to fit.

http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php/loudspeaker-components/loudspeaker-drivers-by-series/reference-series/rs125-4-5-reference-woofer-4-ohm.html

http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php/loudspeaker-components/loudspeaker-drivers-by-type/tweeters/nd25ta-4-1-titanium-dome-neodymium-tweeter.html

Often have these speakers on special.

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/hi-fi-woofers-subwoofers-midranges-tweeters/13?N=19808+4294967118+4294967060&Ne=10166&Nrs=collection%28%29%2Frecord%5Bendeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_PortalID%22%2C%221%22%29+and+endeca%3Amatches%28.%2C%22P_Searchable%22%2C%221%22%29%5D&PortalID=1&showMoreIds=10014

[eliongater 718]

skinny white cable needs power from the blue cable from your stereo

This cable?

I'll have a think about what you guys have said.

I'd prefer to stick with 4x6 (preferably plates/components) as I'm looking for a fairly bolt in solution to start with.

A sub is a must as I listen with one at home and really dislike not having one.

[zero 1162]

What kind of music do you listen to?

A smaller sub will generally give more punch, and be more musical.

I prefer single sub setups over double or multiple sub setups to avoid phasing issues.

[eliongater 718]

What kind of music do you listen to?

A smaller sub will generally give more punch, and be more musical.

I prefer single sub setups over double or multiple sub setups to avoid phasing issues.

Deadmau5, Pendulum, The Offspring, Savant and other electronicy and rock stuff.

I was thinking of just one sub under the rear seat. I've already test fitted a 10" (I think that's how big it was) and it would be fine with a custom box.

Here's an example of what I'm going for:

[_ethrty-Andy_ 2132]

i suggested heat may be an issue for the amplifier in this location, what do others think?

[M M 250]

I have mine in the same place and I haven't had issues. Because there is a gap between it and the seat (at least with my seat), it should be fine.

[zero 1162]

i suggested heat may be an issue for the amplifier in this location, what do others think?

Depends on the amp.

If its class D then it shouldnt be a problem.

Class D will be fine to power a sub, but sounds pants on the rest of the speakers.

I would use class AB for the other speakers, but class AB does get alot hotter.

I prefer to have the amps closer to the battery, rather than closer to the speakers.

[Olaf 3317]

I'd like to offer an alternate view. I think that - in light of the pedigree of your fine e28 - that you should find a circa 1989 or 1990 quality cassette stereo. Perhaps an Alpine, a decent higher-end Kenwood (better), but really, work a little harder and get hold of a Blaupunkt or Becker out of Europe.

Then you need a decent cassette deck to record on, and some tapes. If you've never heard a Nakamichi, you don't know how damned good cassettes can sound.

Build your system around this head unit. By all means, use a pair of later amps, and some more modern speakers. Be retro - all the cool kids are discovering the joys of analogue through Vinyl, and Cassette is making a bit of a comeback as well. It's all in-line with your most excellent vehicle. You can use a cassette adaptor to play iPhone etc.

I've just been fiddling around with a couple of Naks I picked up nearly two years ago. One for my workshop, one's going to work for my desk. Tapes on a Nak - recorded well from a great source - sounds better than an iPhone with spotify, or crappy MP3s.

Go to it!

Oh - get the car running and on the road first!

inspiration:

Edited January 18, 2016 by Olaf

[westy 614]

Whilst I like your idea in concept Olaf, cassettes are just so inconvenient (and by inconvenient, read bugger that!).

Myself, I'd find an older, original type cassette unit, find appropriate schematic, fudge an input into the board and feed with an ipod or similar. Preferably with pre-out.

One day I'll follow my own advice ha.

[eliongater 718]

The PO included the stock headunit in the pile of parts I got.

[Xcel 7]

This list might be helpful if you're looking for period correct looking headunits. Just look for ones with auxiliary inputs so you can connect your phone or ipod to them.
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=100559

[Neal 544]

Come to think of it, still have bits of my old e21 system circa 87

[zero 1162]

Neal, that amp is pretty damn rare now.

Very nice.