Grey Thunder - 1990 e30 316i

[Olaf 3317]

Date: 5 Aug 2020

Distance: 261313kms

1. WoF.  

Grey Thunder flew through the WoF check today.  "drives really nicely eh!".  Tyres wearing evenly - 6mm all around.  No advisories, clean bill of health.  Happy days!  Missed my customary photograph.

Next (immediate) steps:

• Cluster - tacho
• Centre console - clock
• Driver's window - fix in regulator to address wind whistle
• Rear brake refresh

... and keep collecting/cleaning M42 parts in preparation.

 

Edit:  oh hang on:  

2. Interior changes (last week)

From this

to this

in just five minutes.  Well, ten if you count re-doing it the next day - my steering hadn't been spot-on straight in the garage.  

Edited August 5, 2020 by Olaf
adding section 2

[tire 10]

I saw this today in the city. It's a real head-turner. Congratulations and keep up the good work.

[Olaf 3317]

@tire thanks Max, very kind!

[Olaf 3317]

And then....

 

hmmmm.... I’d better buy an engine stand!

A big shout to Josh & his brother, and Barry, thanks lads!

[Mikan 173]

Exciting times! 

[Olaf 3317]

Well, we bought an engine stand and assembled it... and with the help of the neighbours, we've manhandled the future heart of Grey Thunder down to floor.  Now I need the right sized bolts to connect the engine stand to the bell-housing bolts.  Anyone know what size and thread they are?

 

Edited August 6, 2020 by Olaf
Image

[turbolizard 38]

Pretty sure they are M12

[Olaf 3317]

thanks @turbolizard Mike!

 

EDIT/UPDATE:  Very kindly loaned a bellhousing bolt by Jon @ Auto38.  For the princely sum of seven bucks, I've bought 4 M12x90 hex-head bolts, and a dozen M12x28x3.0 Flat Washers, to accommodate the 65mm engine stand bracket depth.  Wish us luck!

Edited August 7, 2020 by Olaf

[Olaf 3317]

Date: 1 Aug 2020

Distance: 261421kms

1. Rear Brake Refresh 

This plan had been underway for about a year.  Nick sourced the ideal rear trailing arms for a pre-prepped rebuild, and I collected these at e30 Mega Meet last year.   What a guy!   

I ran short on time, and Jon at Auto38 stripped them down for me.  They were media blasted, etched, and powder-coated, though this got caught up with Covid-19 lockdown.  Shaun at Plateau Sand & Soda Blasting in Upper Hutt is excellent to deal with - recommended.  

I re-shaped (damage sustained in my boot on the way back), prepped, and painted the disc backing plates with good old Rustoleum (satin this time, to match the powder coating).  I stripped and painted the calipers and carrier brackets as with the fronts last year, with VHT Caliper Paint.  I plugged the holes/threads with polystyrene packaging noodles as I couldn't find the foam ear plugs!

Brake parts painted with VHT Caliper paint, baking above an oil column heater. (paint run evident - the price I paid for rushing the job).

 

Some parts, a few weeks back.

New FAG wheel bearings, and new genuine BMW retainers, clips, bolts etc were used.  Corteco outer brake hoses (OE), ATE parking brake hardware, Febi parking brake shoes, ATE caliper slider pins.  Not Pictured:  new slider boots, new caliper pistons, outer brake hoses.

 

With all the parts in stock, Jon built up the new trailing arms during downtime.  The project was planned to have the car on the hoist for the least amount of time.  The danger in a workshop is for cars to be stuck on a hoist, awaiting parts though preventing other work from moving through! 

 

Lemforder rear trailing arm bushes were pressed in.  (Photo Credit - Jon Begley)

BMW spring pads/bump stops - replacing the thirty year-old items I'd overlooked last time.  Eventually the trailing arm assemblies were ready to go, the job was booked into the workshop schedule.  

Ready to go (photo credit:  Jon Begley)

I arrived yesterday morning to find Doctor Jon had prepped the surgery ready and was ready to proceed.  

Surgeons tools organised ready for the operation (photo credit:  meeee!)

Just think about it.  No time wasted on the job, working out which tools are needed. The surgeon knows the procedure, knows exactly what to expect, and which tool is to be used for each step, and prepares ahead of the operation. This is efficiency and professionalism.

Jon rebuilt the callipers with new seal kits and pistons.   Installation went pretty smoothly, in part due to the pre-build, and that the arms had only been out just over a year ago (for the new bushes).

Brake Parts ready for assembly (photo credit:  meeee)

And when the patient was out of anaesthesia, rear brakes refreshed!  Rotors match the front - Zimmermann Z-cote sport rotors, with Hawk Performance HPS pads.  We've stuck with the existing axles.

Patient in recovery (photo credit:  Jon Begley)

Verdict?  I've only had a short drive home, so far.  The pedal is much firmer.  It's more like a (relatively) modern hot-hatch, than a thirty year-old tired car.  It's better than my old VW A2 GTi 16v.  The feel is improved tenfold over how it drove in.  I'm looking forward to a longer drive to give the full rotor burn-in, and to get to know it better.  I noted the rear suspension seemed a little quieter; I guess this is driving on supple spring pads rather than 30 year old hardened frisbees!  

Overall, this is another large step forward on my plan to iS replica/tribute.

At home, subtlety personified (photo credit:  meeee!)

As ever, the best independent in the Wellington region for your BMW is Auto38 in Newtown.

Big thanks to Nick, Barry, Shaun at Plateau, and Jon at Auto38 for helping realise this part of the dream!

Next Steps:

 

• Get M42 onto Engine Stand
• Cluster - tacho
• Centre console - clock
• Driver's window - fix in regulator to address wind whistle
• wheel alignment (last done 259342kms) - it's over a year, and I think it's settled a little.
• 15" Basketweaves and tyres

Edited August 12, 2020 by Olaf
formatting, titling, more images, next steps, FAG not SKF bearings

[Olaf 3317]

More preparations...

Yeah I know, I didn’t have lifting gear amongst my collection of tools.  Last time I pulled an engine of my own, it was block-and-tackle over a gatepost archway and GST was 10%! ?

Edited August 17, 2020 by Olaf

[Olaf 3317]

A quick trip today at lunchtime.  Prepped my Covid Tracer app, and hand sanitiser.  Packed my work gloves, steel-capped boots, shackles and chains.  The invite said whips were optional.  Just as well, I didn't have them anyway.  Hoped I wasn't taking a knife to a gunfight.

We quickly discovered that - despite me trial-fitting other 10mm shackles to my 8mm chain in the store, my 10mm 1 tonne-rated shackles were too big.  Super-Barry and bench grinder to the rescue, the the shackles were adjusted (just barely) to fit.

Before long we had the M42 chained up..
 

M42B18 in bondage gear

 

And before you could say 'where's the blindfold', the M42B18 was up on the hoist...

 

And then securely pinned to the engine stand.

We all breathed a sigh of relief when we’d completed that task.  Many thanks to Barry, and to Aaron for laughing politely at my bad jokes ?

Edited August 19, 2020 by Olaf
formatting

[Olaf 3317]

Date: 5 Sep 2020

Distance: 261649kms

1. Rear Brake bed-in

Jon had done the brake pad bed-in on the Hawk HPS pads before I collected the car in August.  [6-10 stops from 50-60kph, applying moderate pressure.  Then an additional 2-3 HARD stops from 65-70.  15 mins for brake system to cool down.].  

Since collecting the car, I'd ran a few errands around town, gentle driving only... though I’d not had opportunity to perform the Zimmermann rotor bed-in procedure.  When approaching Zimmermann's 'orders', an early start is essential while the roads are clear and traffic volumes are low.  You’ve got to hand it to the Germans, they’re very thorough and specific...

 

yes, doing your initial 15 braking operations with three minutes between each, takes thought and planning for safety - clear lane behind, hazard lights, brake whilst counting to three and checking your speedo, re-accelerate and hazards off... note the time, wait three minutes, rinse and repeat.  The second round - slowing 100-25, is a bit tougher.  Not just on your braking system, but in your body!  Clenching your abs Top-Gun style helps.  

After all of that - about 90 mins of driving, a bloke needs a pie to settle it all down.

 

 

results:  

• Stomach settled after a mighty Nada Bakery steak and cheese pie;
• Brake feel improved.  More bite, more feel, improved modulation and retardation.

2.  Bath time

... So I finished off with a quick wash and blow dry, and a minor smear of Auto Glym Tyre Dressing.

"All dressed up and no place to go"

Edited September 5, 2020 by Olaf
formatting, added another couple of photos.

[Olaf 3317]

Date: 19 Sep 2020

Distance: 261883kms

1. Tachometer

@skidz cluster went to a good home!  Cleaned up, and swapped my speedo/odometer assembly into the substitute cluster.   Gone is the huge clock of the poverty-spec cluster, replaced with the more functional tachometer and econometer.

Another item sorted!  At least, once I remembered to change over the 4cyl cluster coding plug.  With the 6 cyl plug in place, It barely read over 2k rpm at 110kph (shurley shome mishtake!)..

 

 

2. Vacuum

Because I was there, and it had been about 10 months since last done.  

Edited September 18, 2020 by Olaf
formatting

[leichtbau 525]

Have you thought about going to shadowline window trim? Modernises the car so much, and is in keeping with your iS tribute theme. Best way to do it is leave the silver trim on there and have it wrapped in vinyl - easier than finding used shadowline that will invariably be bent well out of shape.

[Olaf 3317]

Thanks, good idea!  Finding coupe shadowline trim wouldn’t be easy, though as you say, wrapping would be!  I may give that a crack, thanks!

My e30 Touring had shadowline as a factory option (though ISTR it wasn’t hi-gloss like the e46 stuff, was e30 satin?), I did like it so.

It’ll make a change to do something cosmetic for the old girl, most of it has been all about mechanicals.

Edited September 19, 2020 by Olaf

[Olaf 3317]

Date: 23 Sep 2020

Distance: 261931kms

1. Brake Fluid

Full flush and bleed with DOT4 (from Auto38 excellent product and value), with thanks to @Autoglym.  Replaced fluid in the front last year with Front Brake overhaul, and Rear this year, with rear brake overhaul.  It was time for a precautionary full-flush.  Job done.  If I win lotto, I'm getting a garage with a hoist!

2.  Strut Brace

I'd sourced this on-sale from Garagistic a couple of months ago.  Buying on sale and bare (untreated steel) it cost under USD60 delivered to my freight forwarder in USA.  Didn't cost much to get it here either.  

Having studied the box for a week or two, I noted it wasn't self-installing.  Action was required.

I dressed it first, arissing the edges with a file, using scotchbrite, wax and grease remover, and rags to remove surface rust.  I then etch primed it, followed with a couple of thin coats of primer/surfacer.  A couple of days later I sanded it back with 600 grit, and shot two coats of Lachssilber (scanned and mixed to match the exterior by Union Hardware), over it.  Then 20 minutes later added a coat of fairly average clearcoat.  

Then I let it dry for a couple of hours, and attempted to fit it to the car, following the logic that it was less likely to get damaged if it was on the car, drying.  This was wrong on a number of levels, not least of which was that it didn't fit!  I tried jacking one side, which didn't help.  So a little damage was sustained.

I put the bar in the boot, reasoning that it was less likely to get damaged in there, and the paint might relax as it dries, making it an easier fit.  (not really).  When I opened the boot yesterday, it was interesting how much the paint had 'gassed out', between Saturday arvo and Tuesday morning.  

Today - having read the FAQs on the Garagistic site - we tried to fit it with the wheels off the ground... and nothing had changed.  A little pursuasion with a rat-tail file, and precision TNE**, and we were there.  Torqueing down the fasteners, watching the top plates forming to the strut towers, and waiting for the 'click' of the wrench. 

 M40 love, on Saturday.

  Painted and ready

 

 Admitted to The Bar, today.

It hasn't turned beans into peas, though it has tied the front end together, and improved the steering. (I put a brace onto my old Maxima, wow what a transformation!  this is less extreme).   Less effort off of centre, and mid-corner the camber is consistent.  I don't think it was very floppy before, though it certainly is 'tighter'.  Result!

** official acronym of "Trial aNd Error" - with thanks to Mr Crosby, my tech drawing teacher ?

PS:  Note in the bottom image, the clutch reservoir proximity to the bar.  In the US of eh, they run their clutch master from the Brake Reservoir.  Our right hand drive reservoirs foul the Garagistic bar, in standard position.  I loosened the hose clamp and rotated it, and loosened the 10mm securing bolt for the reservoir, and rotated it on the mounting plate, to create space.  

 

Edited September 23, 2020 by Olaf
spelling, and PS.

[Mikan 173]

Track ready! 

[Olaf 3317]

@Mikan well, quite possibly.  I still need to knock up an extinguisher bracket.  I'd rather it was on better rubber... but this is what I have.  It's enough for driver education.

[adro 1083]

Looks great. I did my brake bleed today too and found my strut brace makes it quite fiddly to get the brake fluid reservoir cap off ?

[Olaf 3317]

On 9/23/2020 at 8:23 PM, Mikan said:

Track ready! 

Another time, as it turns out.

[Sammo 2544]

Great thread, such a beautiful, simple car with all the little details seen to.

Do you find yourself wanting a little more punch sometimes, or just enjoy it as a sweet handling 'momentum' car?

[Olaf 3317]

@Sammo thank you sir!  Yes, an M42B18 swap is scheduled for second quarter next year, to give it more torque, and +35hp.  It'll get certed too.

I'm currently doing research, acquiring some of the basic parts (like I've already got the fluid engine mounts from an e30 iS, and the iS-specific RH mount, another M40 sump, engine support, dipstick), am getting ready to strip it down, then buy the parts and do a careful rebuild (whatever it needs), including rings and bearings, all the gaskets, any cooling system hoses and a new water pump, possibly timing gears and chain - certainly tensioner and probably guides), maybe oil pump... and also ensure it's cosmetically sorted.  It'll get a Stromung iS exhaust, and coil-on-plug conversion, and some other bits.  At that point, it should have earned the iS badge.

But the Cert is a very important aspect for me, got to keep it kosher, despite it all being 'factory'.

Edit:  To answer your question, I'm certainly enjoying it as it is as 'the momentum car' that it currently is.  The power, when it comes, won't be at the expense of balance, or transforming it into a Q-ship.  I have performance in my other car(s); with this one, I'm taking 'the road less travelled' ??

Edited October 3, 2020 by Olaf
question answered

[Olaf 3317]

Date: 23 Sep 2020

Distance: Perth, WA, to Wellington Niu Zild, via Seedney.

1. More M42 prep

So this happened.  Found in WA, bought via the book of faces, and slowly made it's way here in the time of Covid.

Yes, I believe that that looks like David Jones wrapping inside the Australia Post Parcel Box?

 

Oh yes!  e30 318iS loom.  Result! ??

Right then, that's into storage.  Along with the high-temperature TESA loom tape that I bought to freshen this up.

M42 DISA QUESTION: does anyone know if any extra wiring is required for the M42 e36 ECU to run the e36 M42 DISA with this e30 M42 iS loom? I’d really like to have the benefit of DISA.

Next Steps:

• Centre console - clock (have parts)
• Driver's window - fix in regulator to address wind whistle
• Address non-functioning remote door mirrors
• Rear Parcel Shelf, Noise deadening, Premium Rear Speakers (have parts)
• Fog light rebuild and install (have parts)
• Horns install (have parts)
• Wheel alignment (last done 259342kms) - it's over a year, and I think it's settled a little.
• 15" Basketweaves and tyres - need wheels and tyres

... plenty to keep me entertained in the mean time!

Edited October 3, 2020 by Olaf
Added images, and the question that’s twisting my melon.

[Rob HB1 90]

Excuse my ignorance but what is disa?

[Olaf 3317]

DiSA: "Differential Air Intake System".  DISA offers the advantages of both short and long intake pipes, which contributes to improved power, torque and fuel efficiency.

I suspect I'll find most of the answers here, once I've slowly worked my way through it.  https://carchat.org/articles/1394-bmw-m42-engine-technical-information-e36