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325_driver

Cooked Motor Question

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25psi? Have you checked it hasn't dropped the timing belt? 

 

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Lol timing belt was on. And checked inlet exhausts at tdc all correct.

I will for sure be posting my findings once the head is off. 

Sounds to me like BMWs can run with water far better than reliable Toyota's

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our local school fair always runs a random donated motor till destruction as a kids betting fundraiser every year, they go full revs for a bloody long time before bang

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11 hours ago, 325_driver said:

Lol timing belt was on. And checked inlet exhausts at tdc all correct.

I will for sure be posting my findings once the head is off. 

Sounds to me like BMWs can run with water far better than reliable Toyota's

Just because the timing belt is fitted doesn't mean it's working/turning correctly,  My partners car chucked the woodruf key, thankfully the 4A series are non-interference, so mainly it was amusing, crank was fine, only pulley damaged.  You can check the motion of the belt/pistons by removing all the plugs, and turning the engine over by hand (or with a socket/bar on the timing pulley (Clockwise only!)) and make sure TDC is where it should be. To find TDC you can put a long socket extension down the plug hole 

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I can also vouch for the “drive a very long way without coolant”.  My better half was driving with our then very young son.  Afternoon coming back from supermarket, car making funny noise, smells funny.  Son making loadsanoise (it’s afternoon, as babies will).  Goes to service station, they add oil.  Child is going nuts by this stage, so (with my blessing - who’s going to consign the mother of their child to wait for an hour for breakdown service with a 3-6 month old baby?) drive it the 10-15 mins home.

I get home, have dinner, around 7.30 have time to check things out.  Take it for a drive, it’s running okay... 8 mins in I’m thinking “hang on, no fluid for the temp gauge, so it’s not rising?” Just as it started rattling.  I shut her down, called the AA.

diagnosis: drain tap busted off the radiator, dumped it’s coolant.  That Nissan 1400cc all-alloy multi-valve engine had done a minimum of 30 mins driving over three sessions.  It was towed to a workshop.

next day, checked over, filled with water (no rad), oil and filter changed; started okay.  Radiator repaired, coolant replaced, oil and filter again.  Ran it for five more years before we sold it, brilliant car!

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WOW!!! Some good news bad news scenario here.

1. I actually found coolant in the block and head.

2. Head off ... Check this out!!!! Never seen one this bad! No wonder zero cylinder compression.

Looks like BMW more reliable that Toyota's lads lol

IMG_20190115_151653.jpg

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Not bad for a 1km drive I say.

Maybe the old owner had the head off. And reinstalled. And didn't torque it down to spec lol .... Fark me

media-6428468737964633340.jpg

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Is it a Genuine Toyota - or even OEM gasket?  Much as I appreciate my BMW, I’d not expect to find them above Toyota on *any* reliability ranking based on real data.

I think, given your account of the delivery and his subsequent unavailability, you need to consider where your Bro raced it! ? 

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40 minutes ago, Olaf said:

Is it a Genuine Toyota - or even OEM gasket?  Much as I appreciate my BMW, I’d not expect to find them above Toyota on *any* reliability ranking based on real data.

I think, given your account of the delivery and his subsequent unavailability, you need to consider where your Bro raced it! ? 

Well yeah, maybe he red lined it - all the way from the Car trailer - to the drive way. 10 meters of pure scorched earth - just enough for me to pop it on a 800meter drive.

I'm hoping the head ain't cracked or warped - hoping the gasket saved my ass and just blew / killed the car before any damage could be done.

Strange because the coolant light didnt go above half - unless it spiked and i didnt notice, and there definintgely was coolant in the block head - i can confirm.

Any one ever damaged a block from this? Or do you have to do something really nasty to warp it.

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1 hour ago, EUROLESS said:

The cambelt was still attached to this too.

 

um WOW

i hope it was 500,000km for that sort of condition

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Looks to have lifted the head. 

Have seen them do similar with detonation but can't see evidence of it in your pics

Hope you've got lucky!

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You said mechanic had replaced the water pump? My guess would be the previous water pump sh*t it self, previous owner cooked the f**k out of it, warped the head enough to blow the gasket.

 

Stick a straight edge across the head and check it.

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31 minutes ago, polley said:

You said mechanic had replaced the water pump? My guess would be the previous water pump sh*t it self, previous owner cooked the f**k out of it, warped the head enough to blow the gasket.

 

Stick a straight edge across the head and check it.

Stuck a straight edge across it - no signs of warping - will be taking it to the engine reconditioners to see if i missed anything.

I had wondered that - when you start piecing it all together - the waterpump replaced, so possibly got overheated before, and maybe the head gasket was on it's last legs

Me driving it down the road, with very low coolant, and the radiator not plugged in - might have been enough to push it over the edge.

The car temp guage was definitely just under half when i left the drive way for the small drive, so it's possible it had been running long enough, for me to F### it with 1km down the road.

I have a spare head - that is absolutely stuffed, so i know what a burnt head looks like - the current one, looks ok.

Cleaned it up, can't see any scorches into the head integrity, or burn rings, ran a flat edge over it with no signs of highs / lows

49948079_510555436102091_904851731686988

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Depending on what motor, I'd even suggest that maybe the previous owner didn't replace the tty head bolts and they've been stretched past their limits.

Have seen this happen with a friends 4AGE powered Suzuki. Had it "repaired" at a local shop, mechanic advised it would need doing again. I got the phone call, told him what to order, including new bolts. Stripped it down, head and block were fine so put it back together and AFAIK it's still going to this day. So could be the same thing here, and you may get away with it.

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Update. 

Engine conditioner - head is good. I'm getting him to do a valve grind resest while he's at it. 

Showed him the head gasket, he said it looked like the head came off. And was put it back on the old head gasket, and put some copper spray on it. Something obviously happened before the water pump replacement and they didn't want to pay for a new head gasket.

Measured all head bolts. Exactly as spec states.

Going mls head gasket now for peace of mind

This is still very bizzare.

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Head Completely Rebuilt

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50581398_665335510531537_791916798435288

She hauls ass now

Thinking of adding a few more HP by painting the rocker cover and timing belt covers "Regal Red" 

2015-nissan-gt-r.jpg

50771338_364740197686547_288233800099640

 

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If youre talking a cometic MLS head gasket for peace of mind, that would be anything but peace of mind, they are notorious for leaking. Just get OEM gasket.

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On 2/11/2019 at 9:11 PM, polley said:

If youre talking a cometic MLS head gasket for peace of mind, that would be anything but peace of mind, they are notorious for leaking. Just get OEM gasket.

you could be on to something there - there is a strange oil leak i have discovered, running down the block, might be nothing, might be something - but its either the 

a) valve cover in the corner (im struggling to find the wet trail from the top)

b) oil sensor in the head 

c) the HEADGASKET?? so i thought i would ask, have you heard of those TRD head gaskets (direct from toyota) to leak externally? i.e. gallery seepage down the block

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On 1/15/2019 at 6:09 PM, 325_driver said:

um WOW

i hope it was 500,000km for that sort of condition

280'000ish, I suspect whoever changed the last cambelt didn't torque it to spec... or at all, the bolt was hand tight.

Edited by EUROLESS

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On 4/9/2019 at 1:39 PM, EUROLESS said:

280'000ish, I suspect whoever changed the last cambelt didn't torque it to spec... or at all, the bolt was hand tight.

lol yeah .. i keep finding other strange things , you know like transmission mounts not bolted in AT all in the sub frame ... that would explain that "clack" noise accellerating in first gear lol

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