New Daily - Manual 130i

[M3AN 4016]

Yeah, sorry, I thought your comment about the roof rail bits was about solenoids... "naa, they can't be removed"... lol, my bad. ?

I'm surprised those roof bits aren't just clip in? Surely they can be removed - to install racks etc? Therefore replaceable?

Edited March 4, 2020 by M3AN

[NZ_InFerno 371]

24 minutes ago, M3AN said:

Yeah, sorry, I thought your comment about the roof rail bits was about solenoids... "naa, they can't be removed"... lol, my bad. ?

I'm surprised those roof bits aren't just clip in? Surely they can be removed - to install racks etc? Therefore replaceable?

All good. 

They fold open, I was surprised when I discovered it as I thought they would pop out. The strip they're on slides out afaik so not a big deal to replace just a pain. 

[NZ_InFerno 371]

Took out both Solenoids on Thursday and cleaned them with degreaser. Cars been running fine since getting it back, this didn't seem to make any difference but will see how it goes. These were BMW Solenoids too, so might be originals. 

But unfortunately another problem I was having, which I thought was part of the engine issue, has been made more obvious. 

When changing gear, mostly from a cold start, and shifting into second, the accelerator totally stops responding. It has also cut out on the motorway at 100kmh between 5th/6th which is super sketchy ?. Have been smashing the accelerator and no response on a few occasions.

Since getting it back I've been driving it every day to work out this issue. It has does it once at motorway speeds but mostly its at the start of a drive and then if I turn the car off and on again its fine and can drive it for a half hour or more with no issues. 

Today it did it again, and popping the clutch in and out the accelerator came back so seems like something going on with the clutch or gearbox.  Previously I've changed gears but still no accelerator response. Just sits at 1000 rpm in 2nd or higher rpms in higher gears. It seems very odd that it kills the accelerator totally though, any ideas what it could be? 

 

Other than this, it has driven fine and I've taken it on a few drives with no other issues lol. 

Edited March 8, 2020 by NZ_InFerno

[KwS 2425]

Just thinking out loud, do these have a thing where it kills the throttle if you apply the brake? Could it be a dodgy brake light switch?

[Jacko 2154]

2 hours ago, NZ_InFerno said:

Took out both Solenoids on Thursday and cleaned them with degreaser. Cars been running fine since getting it back, this didn't seem to make any difference but will see how it goes. These were BMW Solenoids too, so might be originals. 

But unfortunately another problem I was having, which I thought was part of the engine issue, has been made more obvious. 

When changing gear, mostly from a cold start, and shifting into second, the accelerator totally stops responding. It has also cut out on the motorway at 100kmh between 5th/6th which is super sketchy ?. Have been smashing the accelerator and no response on a few occasions.

Since getting it back I've been driving it every day to work out this issue. It has does it once at motorway speeds but mostly its at the start of a drive and then if I turn the car off and on again its fine and can drive it for a half hour or more with no issues. 

Today it did it again, and popping the clutch in and out the accelerator came back so seems like something going on with the clutch or gearbox.  Previously I've changed gears but still no accelerator response. Just sits at 1000 rpm in 2nd or higher rpms in higher gears. It seems very odd that it kills the accelerator totally though, any ideas what it could be? 

 

Other than this, it has driven fine and I've taken it on a few drives with no other issues lol. 

Valvetronic motor? Might be worth relearning the limits and seeing if it goes away, as well as resetting the DME adaptations

[NZ_InFerno 371]

32 minutes ago, Jacko said:

Valvetronic motor? Might be worth relearning the limits and seeing if it goes away, as well as resetting the DME adaptations

That has been replaced recently. How do I do those things?

[Jacko 2154]

1 hour ago, NZ_InFerno said:

That has been replaced recently. How do I do those things?

ISTA+ or Protools can do it

[KwS 2425]

31 minutes ago, Jacko said:

ISTA+ or Protools can do it

Can INPA do it?

[Jacko 2154]

7 minutes ago, KwS said:

Can INPA do it?

Possibly, havent really played much with INPA. 

[KwS 2425]

Sounds like some cars do a self-learn on the valvetronic motor, but INPA might be able to do a relearn and end stops. Hopefully my INPA works on it.

this is the self-learn, if it helps.

turn the car ON (don't start engine), and wait. You should here the car going through the "self test/calibration" on the valvetronic motor. Wait about 30 seconds and turn the car off. Next restart everything should be ready.

[NZ_InFerno 371]

Will definitely try that out. 

Have also given the car a good clean in a couple of places that I hadn't got to yet, cup holder and air vents. Cup holder had some sugary beverage spilled inside which my detailing spray cleaned up nicely. 

Air vents had faded in the sun, gave them a couple of coats of trim treatment and they're looking much better. 

[AndreJohnson 1]

I was the first owner of this car and put the wheels and suspension on. It was sad to see this car end up in the hands of previous owner before you as I think He might have been a little bit too young to own a lovely car and he didn’t take the best care of it as I’ve seen. Those wheels are a one off set of that size and offset in nz and I waited close to 5 months for them to arrive from japan. I absolutely miss the power and feel of this little gocart that’s for sure. 
After a few months of your ownership I really hope this car has had no more issues.

[NZ_InFerno 371]

On 6/7/2020 at 8:46 PM, AndreJohnson said:

I was the first owner of this car and put the wheels and suspension on. It was sad to see this car end up in the hands of previous owner before you as I think He might have been a little bit too young to own a lovely car and he didn’t take the best care of it as I’ve seen. Those wheels are a one off set of that size and offset in nz and I waited close to 5 months for them to arrive from japan. I absolutely miss the power and feel of this little gocart that’s for sure. 
After a few months of your ownership I really hope this car has had no more issues.

Hey, appreciate the post. I've certainly been doing a lot of looking after the car and not a lot of driving it sadly. Its definitely getting to a state of looking and driving well with the cosmetic stuff I've been fixing up on top of the mechanical issues which I've spent so much time/money to get it back running right. 

The car was getting some praise from my mate the other day about the wheels, he hadn't seen the car yet as I've barely been able to drive it since I bought it at Xmas =(

He was a big fan of the wheels, stance and general look of the car. Told him about all the things that had been done, mostly by you iirc, and how clean it looked because of it. 

[NZ_InFerno 371]

So after many months of tribulations the car is running again! I'm very happy ?

Huge shout out to @KwS for helping me out with the valvetronic motor diagnosis and install with bmw software to set the limits. Got it done quick and it worked! He's an absolute legend. 

Also thanks to fcpeuro for the parts, delivered during lockdown too! 

After multiple trips to a euro mechanic since owning the car at Xmas, it still wasn't running right. Replaced the PCV, MAF, Eccentric shaft sensor, rocker cover gasket and had the front of the motor off to check the chain and tensioner. This was all done individually over the course of a couple of months and several back and forth trips to mechanics. Each time the 130i would then run OK for a day or two but then have further faults and run like trash. 

After the last major bill that "fixed" the car. I bought myself a carly scanner(scan tool should be mandatory if you own a bmw for real) and decided I would have a crack at it myself. I don't doubt that the parts replaced by the mechanic had issues or were faulty but it wasn't the main cause and it always seems to deteriorate after leaving their care. 

@KwS and his bmw software gave me a hidden fault code pre-lockdown of a stuck valvetronic motor,  which was giving off strange live readings. It would work OK after reset then proceed to fall out of parameters. A bit of googling and I ended up ordering everything in the valvetronic chain, electronic and mechanical. 

I replaced fuses and an electronic module linked to the valvetronic system, plus did spark plugs as a "while I'm there" job during lockdown(also did plugs on my black 4 door). Used carly to clear faults and it came back, sometimes car would start and drive fine for a bit and other times wouldn't even start. So all that was left was the motor(plus gasket). 

Valvetronic motor is the silver cylinder on the left hand side of the engine, this is actually my black 130i from when I was doing spark plugs. I didn't take any pics working on the white one lol

Once we were set free, @KwS came round on Sunday and fitted up the motor and gasket. Not a super difficult job except for one tricky bolt underneath, having to wind and unwind the motor to tension and removing the electrical wiring on the side to make room. Plus the software adjustment. 

 

Some of the coils and plugs/wiring that need to be removed to get to the motor bolts for removal. 

 

After we started it up and set limits it ran so goddamn beautifully. Improved throttle response and actual power when you put your foot down. Been driving it last two days and it's just great. Really happy to finally have my car back after months of frustration. 

Edited June 8, 2020 by NZ_InFerno

[NZ_InFerno 371]

Now turning to some things that were planned previously and never happened due to the car not being driveable(un-safe) during lockdown/most of my ownership:

- Alignment. New rear tyres fitted, that have barely been driven on, this is first up. 

- Paint touch up on the wheels, hopefully same time as alignment. 

- Supersprint exhaust back box from my parts car. Will give it a polish before fitment. 

- New antenna, ordered today as I fitted a stock one sourced from here but I didn't like the look once fitted. Ordered a stumpy one. 

- Headlight and side indicator tidy up, have a headlight lens restore kit which I'll use to clean and protect the headlights. 

After all these things are done there's still a couple of cosmetic issues with the car. But I'm going to drive it and enjoy it for a while before dealing with them. 

Some pics from antenna fitting today:

 

 

[IainR 55]

I'll keep an eye out for you around Welly ?

I'm in a black 130i (mostly standard) so will give you a wave if we cross paths. 

[Jacko 2154]

Glad you got it sorted, it looks tits! 

On the subject of diagnostic tools etc, I give 3 thumbs up and a big shwing to Bimmergeeks protools app, does all the stuff you want (all the useful INPA/ISTA/Coding) in a slick interface for a one off cost... Its epically better than Carly and the like, and has all the power of the rehingold suite stuff without having to understand how to code in the german  Wish I had bought it years ago. 

[KwS 2425]

Speaking of Apps, can anyone confirm for @NZ_InFerno that Carly can register a new battery?

[Jacko 2154]

46 minutes ago, KwS said:

Speaking of Apps, can anyone confirm for @NZ_InFerno that Carly can register a new battery?

Yeah it can do

[M3AN 4016]

Remember, unless the new battery is exactly the same type (not brand) and has exactly the specs as the one coming out it needs to be coded and registered.

[NZ_InFerno 371]

Guess I got excited too soon, car is broken again. f**king sick of this bullshit. 

Threw an engine light driving home last night. Carly shows a 2A39 code(valvetronic, adjustment range) and a misfire in cylinder 1. Afaik we did everything correctly setting the limits on the valvetronic motor as the car drove mint for a hundred kms or so over 48 hours.  Considering all that has been changed it seems unlikely, though I suppose possible, to be misfiring because of a coil(has new plugs). Internet reading on various forums about 2A39 suggests a lot of stuff that's already been swapped(see previous posts in thread) plus also cleaning eccentric shaft sensor or potentially something damaged inside the engine like the eccentric shaft or its springs. Anyone come across this error code or something like this before? 

I've changed a whole lot of bits and essentially the same fault is re-occuring, though its clearly mis-firing this time around, so still haven't chased down what was wrong with it when it first broke back in the glory days of 2019. 

Wonder at what point its worth buying a used motor and taking all the new bits of this pos motor. 

[Gaz 1060]

1 hour ago, M3AN said:

Remember, unless the new battery is exactly the same type (not brand) and has exactly the specs as the one coming out it needs to be coded and registered.

Needs to be registered when replaced with a new one.

Coded if you change specs

[Gaz 1060]

12 minutes ago, NZ_InFerno said:

Guess I got excited too soon, car is broken again. f**king sick of this bullshit. 

Threw an engine light driving home last night. Carly shows a 2A39 code(valvetronic, adjustment range) and a misfire in cylinder 1. Afaik we did everything correctly setting the limits on the valvetronic motor as the car drove mint for a hundred kms or so over 48 hours.  Considering all that has been changed it seems unlikely, though I suppose possible, to be misfiring because of a coil(has new plugs). Internet reading on various forums about 2A39 suggests a lot of stuff that's already been swapped(see previous posts in thread) plus also cleaning eccentric shaft sensor or potentially something damaged inside the engine like the eccentric shaft or its springs. Anyone come across this error code or something like this before? 

I've changed a whole lot of bits and essentially the same fault is re-occuring, though its clearly mis-firing this time around, so still haven't chased down what was wrong with it when it first broke back in the glory days of 2019. 

Wonder at what point its worth buying a used motor and taking all the new bits of this pos motor. 

Seen entrenchment/wear on the eccentric shafts a number of times 

[qube 3570]

You may need to replace the shaft itself

[Jacko 2154]

Has the valvetronic motor itself been changed, or were the endpoints just relearnt? Have you tried transposing the valvetronic motor from one 130 to the other and seeing if the fault follows?

Edited June 10, 2020 by Jacko