The 130i Thread

[Choo 16]

On 6/26/2022 at 8:16 PM, Vass said:

I'm trying out Dunlop Sport Maxx 50+'s on my 18" set. Haven't gone on the car yet but judging by reviews, seem to be good value, especially at 40% off.

I've got these on 18" too.  No complaints so far based on daily driving, and an enthusiastic drive from Howick down to and past Kaiaua via the coastal route. @ciderbeard

Edited June 27, 2022 by Choo

[ciderbeard 15]

@choo

sweet I think that's what I will go for.  

Do most people run this setup:  225/40 R18 #255/35 R18?

Edited June 27, 2022 by ciderbeard

[Driftit 2069]

16 hours ago, Jacko said:

Eagle F1 Asymetric? I ran Asy 3s and 4s, found them absolutely epic in the wet? RE003s definitely arent amazing in wet, but I would rate the F1 in probably first place of bunch ive tried as a wet performance tyre? (Many spirited drives to Raglan...)

 

I think so yeah.  We paid a bit of money for them.  And were hoping for good things.  Actually I think I still have one.  Will grab a pic.  They are made in Thailand or something which was a surprise.

[Driftit 2069]

11 hours ago, ciderbeard said:

@choo

sweet I think that's what I will go for.  

Do most people run this setup:  225/40 R18 #255/35 R18?

That is what I am running.  I put 235's on the front once.  They looked weird.

[GorGasm 563]

Had PS4S, found they were a bit noisy and harsh.  Great grip wet and dry though.

Swapped to Atturo AZ850s for less than half the price of PS4S and they are just what I need.  They aren't as grippy at all, but have enough grip and are comfortable.  Won't be 130i sizes though as they're meant for big rigs.

My BMW is running LK03 and they are great, even better considering the price.  Good all round grip, quiet and comfortable.  As mentioned the only downside is they appear to be wearing quite quickly.

I'm finding you actively have to search out the cheapest, shittest, tyre to have a bad time these days.  Even some of the Chinese tyres are decent now.

Edited June 27, 2022 by GorGasm

[M3AN 4016]

11 hours ago, ciderbeard said:

Do most people run this setup:  225/40 R18 #255/35 R18?

That's what I run.

[Driftit 2069]

5 hours ago, GorGasm said:

Had PS4S, found they were a bit noisy and harsh.  Great grip wet and dry though.

Swapped to Atturo AZ850s for less than half the price of PS4S and they are just what I need.  They aren't as grippy at all, but have enough grip and are comfortable.  Won't be 130i sizes though as they're meant for big rigs.

My BMW is running LK03 and they are great, even better considering the price.  Good all round grip, quiet and comfortable.  As mentioned the only downside is they appear to be wearing quite quickly.

I'm finding you actively have to search out the cheapest, shittest, tyre to have a bad time these days.  Even some of the Chinese tyres are decent now.

I wasn't sure if it was just the harsh roads.  But if they are wearing fast on the F10 in the Tron they could be just a fast wearing tyre.  But yeah 20K less than the Eurovis.

[ciderbeard 15]

Took the car in for the first proper service in March and finally got an estimate back today from what they think needs doing.  The wallet isn't going to like it. I took it to Eurosurgeon and I didn't have the best experience.  I had to hound them to get any info, never spoke to anyone who worked on it just the receptionist gave me a vague recap from the mechanic and then a couple months later after hounding I get this estimate.  I am trying to be understanding with the disruptions from covid etc might just be a rough time.  Anyone had good experiences with them or recommend someone else to try out west or west central?  After the initial experience I'm a little cautious about taking the car in for work.  Maybe its just a struggle at all mechanics at the moment?

[Eagle 1661]

 @LsBeema is around those ways i believe

[ciderbeard 15]

nice, looks like M Tech Autos is out west ways.  Anyone have recent experience with them?

[Jacko 2152]

Id take it to P&S autos, or all that stuff is DIY as, no idea on the pricing, but they know 130s well and do a good job. 

[Blackie 510]

20 hours ago, KwS said:

at least tuck the tips back in a good inch or so. Looks dumb sticking out that far from the bumper.

Other things that look dumb imho:

• Roof racks
• Tints
• Mud flaps
• Wind deflectors
• Centre console meth pipe (pic since removed)

[Jacko 2152]

19 hours ago, ciderbeard said:

@choo

sweet I think that's what I will go for.  

Do most people run this setup:  225/40 R18 #255/35 R18?

You'll get a few answers here, but personally, having tried multiple different setups and driving like a f**ken numpty regularly, the best setup is square or maybe like 225/235 f/.r. 240ish hp at the rear doesnt demand monster widths at the back even for off the line traction (0-100 in 5.4s with 225s on the back...), and when loaded up in a corner it just makes for understeer as the fronts got less meat than the rear. (despite looking cool)

 

[Driftit 2069]

2 hours ago, ciderbeard said:

Took the car in for the first proper service in March and finally got an estimate back today from what they think needs doing.  The wallet isn't going to like it. I took it to Eurosurgeon and I didn't have the best experience.  I had to hound them to get any info, never spoke to anyone who worked on it just the receptionist gave me a vague recap from the mechanic and then a couple months later after hounding I get this estimate.  I am trying to be understanding with the disruptions from covid etc might just be a rough time.  Anyone had good experiences with them or recommend someone else to try out west or west central?  After the initial experience I'm a little cautious about taking the car in for work.  Maybe its just a struggle at all mechanics at the moment?

 

 

As said, everything on that list is DIY.  And you are likely to save a couple of thousand.
FCP Euro does kits for nearly all of that stuff.  Comes with the bolts, gaskets, bushes etc etc.

Otherwise also as previously mentioned, I would go and see Peter and Graham at P&S Auto.  Raced with them for years.  It is BMW race car central.

[Jacko 2152]

30 minutes ago, Driftit said:

  It is BMW race car central.

Forgot to mention the other benefit, there is always lots of nice cars there to perve at  

[M3AN 4016]

4 hours ago, ciderbeard said:

Took the car in for the first proper service in March and finally got an estimate back today from what they think needs doing.  The wallet isn't going to like it. I took it to Eurosurgeon and I didn't have the best experience.  I had to hound them to get any info, never spoke to anyone who worked on it just the receptionist gave me a vague recap from the mechanic and then a couple months later after hounding I get this estimate.  I am trying to be understanding with the disruptions from covid etc might just be a rough time.  Anyone had good experiences with them or recommend someone else to try out west or west central?  After the initial experience I'm a little cautious about taking the car in for work.  Maybe its just a struggle at all mechanics at the moment?

I have no recommendations other than don't take it to a place you're not happy with. Some comments on the quote:

• They've not (explicitly) included the cost of oil, that seems like an oversight.
• Filter and plugs, probably the easiest thing you can do DIY, although that's not a silly price
• Do not pay this for castor bushes and labour, all in it's a $300 job (parts and labour) MAX
• OFH and cam cover gasket always need doing but the labour costs are silly, it's a 3h job only
• The "transmission bundle" at $800 is probably good value, but only if yours is leaking excessively

BM Workshop are west'ish, they used to be great but I haven't used them for years, they might be worth asking for the same work, at least to get a comparison.

2 hours ago, Jacko said:

...and when loaded up in a corner it just makes for understeer as the fronts got less meat than the rear. (despite looking cool)

You do realise this is a fallacy right? The perceived understeer may increase but actual understeer, i.e. the load at which the fronts will break grip, remains exactly the same. Adding more traction at the rear can push the fronts harder but they'll still hold on to the same point. e.g. a 225/245 setup will have exactly the same amount of understeer as a 225/255 setup (or 225/275 for that matter) because it has exactly the same amount of front grip. Having more rear traction may induce understeer earlier but that only because it's pushing harder (i.e. going faster). This is managed by the right foot.

On a RWD car, more rear tyre is always an advantage unless you live in perpetual monsoon territory.

FWIW, I can easily break traction with 255's on the rear of my 130i with a 280hp tune and it's an auto with an LSD. I consider anything less as inadequate.

 

[Jacko 2152]

By the same logic, pull your sway bars out, as front or rear grip balance is perceived  . Its about balance front to rear, not absolute grip levels. Understeer is understeer, no matter the load level or road speed it happens at. If you put 255s on the front and back, not that they would fit, grip would break away more evenly at the limit (which all things being equal would admittedly be higher than narrower tyres). Best bet, stickier rubber and even grip levels front to back. Its a near 50/50 balanced hatchback, not a dodge viper 😛 

Take a look at the 130 race cars - they are all square setups (some like the 130i challenge, are admittedly for level playing fields, but they run 205s front and back) 

[M3AN 4016]

Yes, and V8 Supercars also run a square setup, not because it's better but because it's a spec. Formula 1 cars (and all formula cars actually) run staggered and that's for a reason.

A staggered setup does not increase understeer, that's a measurable fact. If you have more rear traction you can go faster, choosing when to do so, and getting that choice right, is what makes a quick driver. A quick driver will always be faster in a RWD car on a staggered setup.

 

[Jacko 2152]

We need a skidpad and some G meters, so the internet can sleep easy at night.

[ciderbeard 15]

59 minutes ago, M3AN said:

BM Workshop are west'ish, they used to be great but I haven't used them for years, they might be worth asking for the same work, at least to get a comparison.

good advice.  I will get one of the suggested places to quote on the work.

[Jacko 2152]

 

 

[ciderbeard 15]

damn that was interesting good find @Jacko

 

[Eagle 1661]

Maybe its just me but most of the reason i prefer a square setup is purely practical - generally easier and certainly cheaper to get tyres in the smaller size, can use vehicle without comprise in the event of puncture and the ability to rotate if needed. 

[ciderbeard 15]

something about seeing that fat rubber on the rear makes me happy. 

[Choo 16]

6 hours ago, ciderbeard said:

Took the car in for the first proper service in March and finally got an estimate back today from what they think needs doing.  The wallet isn't going to like it. I took it to Eurosurgeon and I didn't have the best experience

 

 

I didn't have the same experience you did but maybe I was lucky. Like what M3AN said, if they annoyed you then go somewhere with better customer service.  Having said that, the next time I need something checked or done with my car I may try M Tech Auto as getting to and from EuroSurgeon is a pain the arse via public transport (I'm based out west). I went to them because I had a tune done by their performance guys nearby.

As for the Dunlop tyres, the two places I remember them being available are Lincoln Tyre Centre in Henderson (where I got mine) and No Cams in the east. Though if you find a better deal elsewhere, then go there.  Hope this helps