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aja540i

E39 oil burner

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Pads have quite a bit of life left in them, but they were quite glazed from sitting around for ages between drives, cleaned up ok and seem to work well enough, need to do the rears as well.

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On 11/16/2020 at 5:27 PM, aja540i said:

Pulled one headlight apart and shook the old adjusters out, ordered replacements from 2 different suppliers to hopefully get some before the WOF re-check deadline, and replaced the rubber pads in both keys, a small but satisfying job done.

 

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cool keyring!  I've bought THREE keys at retail from Winger BMW and never received a keyring.

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@aja540i keen to see the (partially finished) product!

@Olaf Plug for Fabian at Coombes Johnston in Hamilton. Gets all my parts business despite not being local.

Edited by balancerider
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12 hours ago, Young Thrash Driver said:

I forget if you have done pads already, but I really liked the ceramic ones in Alans old car. They worked ok, and didn't make a mess.

They were "Posi-Quiet" from Centric that Jules recommended, I think.

They really were low dust, but the brakes didn't have the same initial bite as OEM - still absolutely fine under heavy brakes, but initial application was "softer", which only took about 5 minutes to get used to.

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Ok, so apparently if I want NZTA to change it from miles to Km in their system I have to take it to VTNZ and they have to inspect the odometer to verify it shows km, then they let NZTA know and they will update it. Sounds easy......

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Typical, last day for WOF re-check was today, headlight adjusters were waiting for me when I got home, half an hour before testing station closes!!

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After pi55ing around trying to change headlight adjusters, a trip to Pick a part for something else netted a pair of PFL headlights with new adjusters already installed, swapped over my polished and clear coated lenses, and bulbs, and threw them in, job done!! Now to sort the air bag light.....

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airbag light sorted, pulled out drivers seat, unplugged all the connections,  plugged them back in again, fired up the old steam powered laptop and cleared the fault code, turned key on / off a few times to confirm it was gone, bolted seat back in, job done!!

Also de-glazed the rear brakes and greased the caliper sliders, so that is everything done that it failed the WOF on, back to VTNZ tomorrow to get a new list of problems.....

 

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Changed from Miles to Km in the "system", fairly painless, told Vtnz what I needed and they made the phone call and sorted it, 5 minutes later went online and bought RUCs in Km, now just fingers crossed for the WOF!! 😉 

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Finally road legal!! Well, once the RUC and rego labels arrive! 

Next mission is to straighten a slightly buckled style 66 wheel and get some tyres on them, was going to do a full refurb but I kinda like the idea of rough looking wheels on a rough looking car for now. Will get an alignment once new feet are on.

Also need to install wiring for power to the car trailer, and install 50mm towball.  Then rear subframe bushes and suspension arms. Then trans filter and gasket and new fluid again. Then....

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Bring it to the meet on Sunday

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6 hours ago, zero said:

Bring it to the meet on Sunday

You want me to put your wheel in the boot?

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Yea man. 

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So, now that it's legal i have been driving it some, and there is an issue ( no surprise there) when pulling away from a standstill it has almost no power, it has meant a couple of close calls when pulling out into traffic!! It doesn't seem to make any difference how much jandal I give it or whether it is hot or cold, it just has no guts, then all of a sudden it wakes up and takes off, but we are probably talking  about 3 or 4 seconds of no power. It could be a transmission issue but seems more like the engine just isn't revving up and making power like it should. Googling doesn't give any definitive answers just lots of try this and see type stuff. Any clever ideas? Any dumb ideas that might work anyway? I don't really want to just start throwing random parts at it just yet as I can use it, just not 100% happily.

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Transmission pressure... at least that's something I'd want to eliminate early, symptoms are relatable. 

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Vacuum or boost leaks? weak or leaky injectors?

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8 hours ago, M3AN said:

Transmission pressure... at least that's something I'd want to eliminate early, symptoms are relatable. 

Yeah could be, I'm not sure how smart this car is, I assume that an issue in the trans will cause the DDE to limit engine power, which is what it feels like it is doing. I might move the trans filter and oil change to the top of the list.

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4 hours ago, zero said:

Vacuum or boost leaks? weak or leaky injectors?

It doesn't feel like a boost leak, at a certain point it just decides everything is fine and starts pulling like a train, I have also tried to keep an eye on the boost gauge when it happens and it will start building boost then it just holds the revs / boost for a few seconds, then away it goes, a serious boost leak would be evident all the time. One of the possibilities is a fault in the wastgate actuator or its plumbing but I will need a bit of time up my sleeve before I tackle removing the turbo.

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So the soft close on the tailgate decided not to work properly, and I noticed this morning that the windows don't go down automatically when you hit the button, you have to hold it, so I suspect the GM is now packing a sad and needs repairing / replacing. I'm pretty sure I have a spare but its probably the wrong one....

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Pulled the GM out and took the covers off, one badly corroded leg on the big chip, doesn't look like it goes anywhere but I will clean it up a bit and have another look.

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Replaced the passengers door mirror with a pick a part item in the correct colour, old one had had the cover glued on at some stage and it fell off at the last meet, new one has scratches and stone chips pre - installed so fits right in!!

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