gjm 3258 Report post Posted June 6, 2019 28 minutes ago, Olaf said: You can buy the wiring kit to add multifunction wheel onto the vehicle for e46. I have part number in a spreadsheet, let me know if you need it. Last time I looked it was under USD30. Sounds promising. I have a spare steering wheel with multifunction buttons that could suit. I want to make the implementation as useful - and as safe - as possible. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted June 10, 2019 E46 steering rack. Do they use locking tabs on the inner rack ends? Rack came without ends, and new ends dont have locking tabs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nick496 268 Report post Posted June 10, 2019 7 hours ago, KwS said: E46 steering rack. Do they use locking tabs on the inner rack ends? Rack came without ends, and new ends dont have locking tabs. I don't believe they do as the ends have venting grooves. There weren't any locking tabs on mine when I was replacing the inners. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted June 10, 2019 (edited) 12 hours ago, KwS said: E46 steering rack. Do they use locking tabs on the inner rack ends? Rack came without ends, and new ends dont have locking tabs. Depends what car the rack came off. If your tyres don't rub on the fender liners then you don't need the stops. I didn't use them although I have a new set if you want some. Edited June 10, 2019 by M3AN Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted June 10, 2019 Came out of a compact. What are the stops? It looks like the e36 used thin metal washers as locking tabs? No sign of anything for locking tabs in realoem for e46 ti Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted June 10, 2019 Same stops fit both racks, they're just glorified discs that reduce the left/right swing by a couple of mm's each way. They do nothing other than reduce the lock to prevent the inside front of the front tyres rubbing the liners. It'll be the chassis rather than the rack that will determine if they could/should be used because it's related to the shape of the wheel well. Real OEM says (e36): ONLY APPLIES TO TIRES 225/55 which I assume is a 16" rim, all M3's came with 17's and a locking plate. I had them on the stock rack, I didn't have them with my purple rack and my fronts (225/35/18) rubbed on full lock but no drama, I don't have them on my Z3 rack and tyres don't rub (so it must have a shorter throw). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted June 10, 2019 Do they double as locking washers to lock the inner rack ends or is it just to shorten lock? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted June 10, 2019 16 minutes ago, KwS said: Do they double as locking washers to lock the inner rack ends or is it just to shorten lock? No, just to shorten the lock... although they happen to lock the tierod as well because of how they install, this is actually a PITA because you have to get them off to replace the inner rod and every time I've removed some I've had to cut them off... less than ideal if the rack is still on the car. I've never heard of a tierod undoing itself... I suppose it's possible if it's not torqued properly but many (most?) cars with the same rack and rod design don't come with the stops so we can assume they're not essential for that purpose. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted June 11, 2019 A lot of cars have locking tabs/washers and according to realoem and google the e36 is one of them. looks like they were axed for the e46 so will run without. Thanks for the info on the lock stops. Sounds like something I don't need, so will run without. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted June 11, 2019 ^ "some" e36's... rather than 'all'. I point it out and consider this distinction important because it's a clear indicator they're not necessary for any purpose other than to prevent rubbing. I support your decision though because, even in the worst case scenario with rubbing, it's something the driver can easily manage. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2157 Report post Posted June 11, 2019 Got a head scratcher. BMW E87 Throwing codes 372/345/346 - Brake force display failure Left Brake light failure Right Brake light failure Left Brake lights work fine, with the headlights off, with the headlights on I get no brake lights (still illuminated vis headlights, but no increase brightness). High stop light works fine. Any ideas? Bulbs are fine, replaced both with no change. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1662 Report post Posted June 11, 2019 Sounds like a grounding issue to me. Being a BMW id check all the connections like holders, plugs etc at rear lights first. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2157 Report post Posted June 11, 2019 Have been screwing with this for last few hours, chasing gremlins and my tail. Plugged it into ISTA, which throws communication issues with the fuel pump control module, the alarm, and the roof module. Only thing actually not working is the tail lights, and they kinda working Pulled out the PDC, number 1 location for Gremlins to live, its bone dry (and was conformal coated a year ago so shouldnt be a problem) and it looks fine. Pulled out the FRM, also looks spotless. My next step was to pull the LH wheel liner out and take a look at the alarm.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
qube 3570 Report post Posted June 11, 2019 hows your battery condition? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2157 Report post Posted June 11, 2019 42 minutes ago, qube said: hows your battery condition? Was fine, bit flat now that ive had the lights on for a few hours :D Same issue with no rear brake lights, with tail lights on, with engine running. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted June 11, 2019 Sounds exactly like the old problem with e36's where the loom between body and boot lid would get damaged and short out causing assorted electrical problems. Doesn't really help you but I thought I'd mention it. ? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2157 Report post Posted June 11, 2019 Fuel pump relay, looks fine. Alarm, looks fine. Im cleaning all the connectors as a I go and rechecking, with no change. Next step is the JBE, because pulling the dash apart sounds like such good fun. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2157 Report post Posted June 11, 2019 (edited) Tested the snot out of FRM light functions, and then reset the FRM (with ISTA+) all looked fine apart from a null value being given for tail light dimming. Looking over the wiring diagram its purely the FRM that controls voltage to the tail light, there is no relay or the like in the way. Im wondering if Carly has caused some madness with the coding of the FRM now. Pulled apart the tailgate too see if was something like the flexible section causing a break/chaffing. Nothing. It cant be a ground, Ive checked them all (and it doesnt make sense anyway, the lights all work, just the tail lights when on are at the wrong brightness) F*(^*(King BMW, who would buy one of these things. Whats wrong with good old fashioned wires and switches ? Edited June 11, 2019 by Jacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
promo 93 Report post Posted June 11, 2019 I;ve seen this problem before where the FRM module gets corrupted i.e flat battery, jumped started. ISTA wont fix your issue. You need to reflash firmware or replace FRM. have done a few of these. easy to rule out by plugging in a second hand FRM unit. then coding it. or fix your old one via reflash. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2157 Report post Posted June 11, 2019 Interesting, I got a jump a few a weeks ago due to dead starter. Ill have a read up about flashing it, have tool32 on laptop but have never used it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
promo 93 Report post Posted June 12, 2019 tool32 wont flash it for you. only recovery is by eeprom programming. 021 0894 1411 if you need help 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KwS 2425 Report post Posted June 12, 2019 I know when i had the E91 i looked into Carly and there were warnings about certain FRM units that would sh*t the bed if used with Carly. Maybe related? http://support.mycarly.com/knowledge-base/carly-safe-coding-specially-regarding-frm-ecu/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2157 Report post Posted June 12, 2019 Yeah I stumbled over that on my googling for WTF, carly didnt throw any errors when I did screw with it. I awhile ago I was screwing with LED bulbs, and turned off the warnings etc using carly, have since gone back to standard bulbs and didnt turn the warnings back on. No idea if this issue is related though ? Now its back to as default as can remember, unfortunately carly seems to have lost all the backups from months ago (android update, carly update? ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2157 Report post Posted June 12, 2019 3 hours ago, promo said: tool32 wont flash it for you. only recovery is by eeprom programming. 021 0894 1411 if you need help Thanks heaps for you help Pramod, life saver, I was about to torch the fecking thing Ended up being a butchered coding from Carly app, reflash to stock by @promo via the magic of the interwebs and I have tail lights that behave themselves now. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted November 24, 2019 Is this "vibration absorber" done up correctly? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
