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Im looking at buying some 15" weaves from Auckland. I'm in Wellington. Any idea how much it would cost to ship? Might end up just driving up to get them but if anyone has any idea would be helpful! Thanks

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How to check? Where is it?

Its one of these IIRC. Cant remember which one though.

2012-10-08_20-11-08_663.jpg

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Im looking at buying some 15" weaves from Auckland. I'm in Wellington. Any idea how much it would cost to ship? Might end up just driving up to get them but if anyone has any idea would be helpful! Thanks

Mine cost 100 a few years ago

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Mine cost 100 a few years ago

What company was that with?

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What company was that with?

roadstar I think,i think the fella that sent them had contacts there.if the wheels have tyres I can tell you its hard getting 4 full size wheels into a car

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Anyone know the correct oil grade for a 2006 118i? Cheers.

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Where does one pick up a E30 IS lip? I seem to recall someone on here was having them made from fglass?

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Yep txt me on 0272417328 can have one in aucks Tuesday pickup 42 O'rorke rd penrose cheers

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Timing the m60 with a new chain, took the locking pin out and turned the engine over twice, all marks line up fine but there were 2 spots where I had to reverse and then turn again to get past. IS this normal? Lash from the lifters?

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Will a e34 535is 210 (large case, 8 bolt) LS 3.64 diff bolt straight into my 3.2 e36 M3?

Would I need to change/mod anything or swap anything over?

i think similer but front bolt mounting system is different

rear covers need to be swapped

also 540i and 740i diff have the same input flange as the m3 diff

band some 535i have a smaller 4 bolt flange to suit a uni joint not a CV

see pics here

https://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoserver/full/307979620.jpg

post-279-0-48967500-1400747933.jpg

post-279-0-79766700-1400748030_thumb.jpg

Edited by Brent HARTGE535i
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Thanks Brent.

A couple more questions, I'm quite ignorant on this subject:

* If the front mount is different could I just swap the internals?

* What does the rear cover do and why would one need to swap them?

* Would I be losing any "evolution" by using an older different or is the technology (circa 1989 vs 1997) just the same?

Internals can be swapped but it's not really a DIY job. Rear cover also houses the mounting bushes, I'd be pretty surprised if the carriers & mounts are the same between E34-36. as far as I'm aware all BMW diffs are clutch pack designs so to the best of my understanding the tech is the same.

I did a whole heap of digging around on the topic while researching my options for fitting a medium case limited slip to my 325i. Holden LS pumpkins are possibly able to work as they used zf units very similar to the ones supplied to BMW but I never got to find out if they are in fact the same unit. Quite possibly use different crown wheel bolt patterns but they're often cheap enough to make it viable to buy one to open up & take some measurements :ph34r:

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A couple more questions, I'm quite ignorant on this subject:

* If the front mount is different could I just swap the internals?

* What does the rear cover do and why would one need to swap them?

* Would I be losing any "evolution" by using an older different or is the technology (circa 1989 vs 1997) just the same?

TIA.

One resource that helped me get my head round the topic was realoem. The exploded diagrams lead to a few 'Eureka' moments for me, anyway. Especially around why x diff casing won't fit y models

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Bmw 318i e46 2002

Hey guys idk if this has been asked or what not but uhmm my engine light came on off the dash. Ive done some research, and yes, it lit up after gassing it up. Tried to tightening it up and all but the light is still there.

Has this happened to any of you guys here? No sign of power loss or any leakage. But then you can never be too sure.

P.s. Bmw noob so any help will be much appreciated thank you.

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk

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Not sure I understand. Gassing it up? As in filling it with gas? Or caning it?

Tighten it up? As in fuel cap?

I'm lost... but then again I'm pretty dim...

Woops my bad yes, filling it up and yes fuel cap ahah. Sorry.

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk

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Woops my bad yes, filling it up and yes fuel cap ahah. Sorry.

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk

your going to have fun next time you log in trying to remember how many Os and Bs you have in your name!

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If you remove the cap, create a seal over the filler with your lips and inhale really hard can you still see the CEL? If so, at that point do you still really care?

;)

Wow ok, thanks.

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk

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I have just installed a new wiring harness for my angel eyes. Before, they turned on with my park lights. The new harness controls the angel eyes directly from the 12v power source in the engine bay (the box with the red plus on it). the harness has a relay and a fuse and two trigger wires. when the trigger wires are sent a 12v signal, the relay trips and allows power through to the angel eyes.

I have used a fuse tap on the fuel pump relay to access a constant 12v signal when the car is running - meaning the angel eyes run as daytime running lights.

I then routed the second trigger wire through to the drivers footwell interior light. So the angel eyes fade on and off when I unlock/lock the car with my key fob.

This worked fine for a while but then I started continuing blowing the interior lights fuse (which in turn stops my rear park lights and license plate lights from working and also my instrument cluster). The set up works fine until I switch the headlight switch (on the right) to park or low beam (HID kit).

I've tried disconnecting the second trigger to the footwell light, still blows the fuse, thought the short could be coming from somewhere else, so have checked boot lid wiring .. no luck. Brake lights work so it isn't dangerous.

Am I overloading the park light circuit?

if I can't get this to work, I'm going to have to convert it back to the original set up and just deal with no daytime running lights (unless with headlights in park mode) and no connection to the interior fadein/fadeout.

Any info, much appreciated. Thanks

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If i read that right you haven't connected to the park light cicuit anywhere so i can't see why that would be overloading the fuse. Might pay to check all your lights, earths, switch etc and make sure there isnt another issue.

Good luck, i hate chasing electrical gremlins!

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I dont think I can help,but I am intrigued with the "it worked for a while then I started continuing"

No changes during the initial working phase?

What does started continuing mean?

Edited by kiwi535

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Hi Rex,

Do you also see this EML next to the orange engine out line it may stay on or disappear if so would guess you have a dud purge valve.

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I dont think I can help,but I am intrigued with the "it worked for a while then I started continuing" No changes during the initial working phase? What does started continuing mean?

When I come to think about it .. I think after I wired up the angel eye harness to fuel pump fuse and interior lights, I never used my HID (switched parklights etc on) - never drove it at night after that point. No whenever I run the parking lights (use the headlight switch) I blow fuse 33 and 37.

I will pull the fuse from the angel eye harness to remove draw from the parking lights circuit and see if I still blow fuses. Otherwise I am going to set up a SPDT relay on both angel eyes and trigger daytime mode vs night mode, might even use a twilight switch if I can be bothered wiring that in .. running lights (angel eye harness during the day), then as soon as ambient light drops below a point, the relays will switch over to normal angel eye + HID and disconnect from park light circuit .. hope it works. i drew out a wiring diagram on a whiteboard but now its time to wrap my head around a 5pin input relay with two throws.

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SPDT set up done .. ran out of time so I haven't wired the internal switch yet. but its okay, the SPDT neutral switch is the original angel eyes set up. It is only when I put in a 12v signal that it switches to the running lights/interior light lock set up

A lot of trouble for DRL but we'll see. Learnt a lot about wiring and used solder and heatshrink like a good proper job! haha. i just need more fuses now I think . .

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Hi people, what's a good source for oil and air filters for my 05 E61 530i (N52)? The ones on Trademe ok? Sorry if the question has been asked a million times. Thanks in advance.

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i tend to use genuine, from the dealer for oil filters. Cheap enough really.

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I go to the dealer to buy oil and filter.take some containers for the quantity you need

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