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Make: BMW

Model: 335i

Year: 2007

Chassis: E92

So i'm getting error code 2c9c Lambda probe heating in front of catalytic converter, but im not sure which 02 sensor i should be buying to replace this thanks a lot 

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Mine (N52B30) throws O2 sensor errors when I put sh*t gas in it, even 96 (have had to twice, gas light on, middle of nowhere... still feel bad about it :( ), once it meets its internal emission cycle stuff, and sitting at 100 in 6th  "lean burning" it'll throw the code for various O2 sensors. May have something to do with always running it on 98, and reseting the adaptations whilst on 98. 

 

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I'm feeling internet disabled... where on earth can you download owners manuals from BMW? It strikes me as something that should be bleedin' obvious but buggered if I can find them.

Where are they?

Or does somebody have a e87 130i LCI 5 door manual as a PDF? The only one I can find is for a 2 door and they're quite different.

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I had a pdf copy of pre lci 130 somewhere, most of the functionality with the coupe/2 door hatch is identical though. Have the paper copy for my car if its on any use. 

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Been done to death a bit, but can someone recommend me an Auckland workshop to do the diff pinion (and output) seals on an E91 330i.

Botany Motor Worx are gone, and BM Workshop mad a mare of it the last time it was in there, so need someone competent and with the right gear to set the preload. 

Other option is I pull the diff and get it sent to Kayne to fix, problem with that is the 330 is the family truckster and its logistically painful to pull off the road for a few days. 

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With enough notice Kayne will do the whole car on a lift but that's not going to work if you need it done now. Outputs are easy enough to DIY, depends where the leak is really, they rarely all need replacing at the same time but worth doing 3 if you're doing 1.

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pinion seal is leaking, with the 130 as soon as I changed the diff fluid both outputs started leaking :D Outputs are easy DIY, but the pinion seal looks like a bit of bitch. 

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From memory the jatco autos have two “drains” on the bottom. The front one should be the filler one. It has a tube that sticks up into the pan so once it’s fill it’ll start over flowing on you.

Edited by E30 325i Rag-Top
Quoting preceding post.

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As above but be sure your car is level, run it through the gears and it check at right temperature (between 30-50 degrees) to ensure accurate reading

Edited by Eagle
temperature

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2 hours ago, EurolessNoMore said:

Do people trust oil changers to flush and fill my E36's Jatco? 

A flush and fill is a risky proposition on these (apparently). The likelihood of dislodging crap and not flushing that crap out is high because you can't get the last few litres out.

But anybody that can hold a wrench and follow instructions can do it.

The more proper procedure is to drop the pan and replace the filter, gasket and fluid.

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On 1/6/2020 at 12:17 PM, EurolessNoMore said:

Do people trust oil changers to flush and fill my E36's Jatco? 

Ace-o-matic on Stanmore road

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Alpina specify  “The correct engine oil for your B5 is CASTROL SLX 0W-30 / Castrol SLX Professional Longtec BMW LL01 SAE 0W-30.” 

Which seems to be hard to find locally or expensive.. I have been using Edge 5W-30 and reading Castrol’s description 

 https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/car-engine-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/engine-oil-viscosity-grades/0w-30.html
“liquid engineered to flow like 0 Weight oil in winter temperatures, but to have the viscosity of a 30 Weight engine oil once full operating temperature has been achieved.”

Given our winter temps (Hamilton and my garage anyway) very rarely if at all see sub 0 is a 0W ‘weight’ oil critical or necessary?

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14 hours ago, Secniv said:

Given our winter temps (Hamilton and my garage anyway) very rarely if at all see sub 0 is a 0W ‘weight’ oil critical or necessary?

No, it's 100% not necessary. 0W will provide "required" lubrication at -40*C... it't not necessary, and indeed inefficient, for any plausible NZ condition.

Here's a good chart (for the 'w' specification at least):

Viscosity-Chart-PNG.png

Edited by M3AN
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8 hours ago, M3AN said:

No, it's 100% not necessary. 0W will provide "required" lubrication at -40*C... it't not necessary, and indeed inefficient, for any plausible NZ condition.

Here's a good chart (for the 'w' specification at least):Viscosity-Chart-PNG.png

That’s a great chart thanks.. on the red side it’s all about operating viscosity right.. I understand with the lubrication of the supercharger on the B5 the 30 is definitely required.

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5 hours ago, Secniv said:

That’s a great chart thanks.. on the red side it’s all about operating viscosity right.. I understand with the lubrication of the supercharger on the B5 the 30 is definitely required.

I believe the red side is the temp at which the oil reaches it's operating viscosity, yes. Obviously it can stay at that viscosity at much, much higher temps than on the chart.

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fault - "11 thermal oil level sensor" 

replaced sensor but fault still there. erased fault code and comes back straight away.

anything else it could be???

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1 hour ago, qube said:

fault - "11 thermal oil level sensor" 

replaced sensor but fault still there. erased fault code and comes back straight away.

anything else it could be???

Checked the oil level?

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Hi all.

Just wondering if there's a repository for fluid specs required? I can't seem to find one and there are a lot of conflicting info.


I have a 2008 323i E90 auto and wanting to know what engine oil I should use, and the capacity.

Cheers

Hunt

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Power steering pumps! Went to replace mine and the new one didn't come with this outlet. Went to swap it over only to find the pump is threaded, old one is held in by friction. Anyone come across this before? E36 328

20200217_125612.thumb.jpg.d940e392b086382bce8955c24b2183dc.jpg

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