polley 916 Report post Posted December 9, 2010 For the battery cable there is a piece you knock out of the firewall / battery box for the cable to pass thru, same for the holes the junction box bolts to. Dont have any pics sorry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Forrest 35 Report post Posted December 9, 2010 (edited) I'll take some tomorrow morning for you if nobody does beforehand. I'll post them in your thread. Edited December 9, 2010 by Brams Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
APT 189 Report post Posted December 9, 2010 ^^ Need help also thanks Nath Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2153 Report post Posted December 9, 2010 Cheeers! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted December 9, 2010 Cheeers! It would be better if someone with a rear battery set up vehicle let you have a good look at theirs Chris & Andrew. I'm sure someone on here could help. Pictures may not help that much Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lucan 196 Report post Posted December 9, 2010 I have a rear battery set-up, let me know if you want a geez Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2153 Report post Posted December 9, 2010 Be awesome to have a looksee at a real live working one, but am kinda at the grindstone with the M50 swap, off to seattle next week so time is precious! If your around Mt Eden at any point and feel like collecting some beers, shoot into the TTT auto chop shop (behind burgerfuel) at 222 Dominion Rd Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lucan 196 Report post Posted December 9, 2010 Yea sure I live 5min from there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2153 Report post Posted December 9, 2010 (edited) Yea sure I live 5min from there. Shweet, be there 8-5ish today, gonna try jimmy my way in to do the wiring on my car tommorrow too. If the front door etc are all locked up shoot around the back. Lots of theiving dero buggers in Mt eden. Some dude stole about 600kgs of engines and old gearboxes in the weekend. Broke into the locked scrap cage and stole every peice of alloy, and left behind all the sh*t... Edited December 9, 2010 by Jacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2153 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 Any one got any tricks for adjusting E30 handbrake with a really tight LSD? Shouldve done it with the halfshafts removed, but really cant be assed removing them now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Phatputer 3 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 Adjusting handbrake would usually be done at the handbrake end with the 2x 10mm nuts.. or are you talking something completely different here? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2153 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 (edited) Adjusting handbrake would usually be done at the handbrake end with the 2x 10mm nuts.. or are you talking something completely different here? Cable tension is at the handbrake on the nuts, the star adjustment doofas that actually adjust where the shoes sit is in the hub (stick a long screw stick through a wheel bolt hole and turn the adjuster). The idea is essentially to lock the wheel with the star adjuster, back if off a few turns, then adjust the handbrake cable tension/clicks it takes to lock the wheels. Problem is, how do I adjust them evenly when I cant turn one wheel at a time. Ie I can have the left one dragging and feel the drag in the right wheel. The solution is pulling the halfshaft bolts out of the diff, was hoping there was some cool trick to get em even Edited December 14, 2010 by Jacko Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tcbaurpower 5 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 (edited) Wedge a brick under the other wheel . I have some oem tyre blocks but bricks, wood or metal toe cap work boots all do the trick to hold the wheel. Edit: Dismiss my late night ramble lol. I guess the easiest way is take it to a garage and put it on the machine then tweak it to suit. Easier than removing half shafts etc. Edited December 15, 2010 by tcbaurpower Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2132 Report post Posted December 14, 2010 ^did you miss the part where he says he has an LSD as opposed to a open diff? chocking the other wheel efectively locks the other wheel too removing the half shafts is the only way sorry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2153 Report post Posted December 21, 2010 Cable tension is at the handbrake on the nuts, the star adjustment doofas that actually adjust where the shoes sit is in the hub (stick a long screw stick through a wheel bolt hole and turn the adjuster). The idea is essentially to lock the wheel with the star adjuster, back if off a few turns, then adjust the handbrake cable tension/clicks it takes to lock the wheels. Problem is, how do I adjust them evenly when I cant turn one wheel at a time. Ie I can have the left one dragging and feel the drag in the right wheel. The solution is pulling the halfshaft bolts out of the diff, was hoping there was some cool trick to get em even Figured it out. Step 1 - Handbrake off. Adjust the star adjuster on one wheel till it locks, back it off a few clicks. Repeat with other side, backing off the same number of clicks. Step 2 - Undo both cable adjustment nuts on the handbrake. Set the handbrake at the height you want the wheels locked. Tighten up one side of the cable until it locks the wheel. Get a pair of verniers and measure the thread extending from the cable. Undo the nut Step 3 - Do up the other side same as step 2, but dont undo nut once the wheel is locked. Install first nut and tighten up cable until you get the same length of thread extending from nut. Presto, equally adjusted handbrakes with a tight ass LSD Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thorburn 121 Report post Posted December 23, 2010 Is there anything special about bmw coolant? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted December 23, 2010 It's the right coolant to use and it's only $20.99 +Gst for 1.5 Litres Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
polley 916 Report post Posted December 23, 2010 Glenn is that premixed or concentrate? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted December 23, 2010 Glenn is that premixed or concentrate? Concentrate... in a BMW sealed bottle Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Docile 64 Report post Posted December 25, 2010 the rear view mirror on my e38 fell off. how do i still it back up to the windshield? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nzhaystack 0 Report post Posted December 30, 2010 Are you new to bmw's or just require some answers to minor questions your wondering about ? Then this is where you want to post. This thread is where you can ask any questions you require answers to that wouldnt be necessary to make a thread for. Things that you might be unsure of or something that someone can give you a quick answer too. This post has been made so more important and technical questions wont be overshadowed by small quick answer questions. Be sure to be specific: Specify Make: BMW Model: 528i Year: 1998 Chassis: E39 Then the question below: Does anyone know what size tyres should I be using on my standard 15" mags. How much oil should I be putting in? How do I change the brightness of the lights on my dashboard? If you dont think you'll be needing to use this thread, be sure to check when theres a new post to see if you can help out. This will hopefully be a quicker way to getting the answers you need. Andy. Hi, my car has a few little issues such as 1. coolant temprature guage not working. The thing is i turn the key to 'on' and the needle goes like .5cm from dead position to cold then i start car take it for a long as drive and needle doesnt move. I replaced the sensor today and still nothing.. any ideas? 2. When engine runs the valve tappets sound tired. do they need adjusting or replacing? and is it ok to drive like that? also if i was to DIY it what tools (apart from the basics) would i need? 3. Gearbox needs replacing.. it is manual how hard is it to pull gbox out and replace by yourself? Cheers Mitchell Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jono51 59 Report post Posted December 30, 2010 Hi Mitchell, please specify what car cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_ethrty-Andy_ 2132 Report post Posted December 30, 2010 he has an 84 prefaclift e30 coupe, NZ new in white _b we bled the cooling system (wasnt sure if this would help, but needed to be done anyway), changed the sensor and tightened the grounds on the cluster and those dont seem to have fixed it. gearbox is reletively easy mitch. Ill give you a hand to do that if you like Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jono51 59 Report post Posted December 30, 2010 he has an 84 prefaclift e30 coupe, NZ new in white _b we bled the cooling system (wasnt sure if this would help, but needed to be done anyway), changed the sensor and tightened the grounds on the cluster and those dont seem to have fixed it. gearbox is reletively easy mitch. Ill give you a hand to do that if you like gidday ok, so check cluster, and continuity of the wiring as with tappets, lift the rocker cover and inspect the cam, rockers for wear and then you guys adjust the tappets, ( also check the cam oiler tube isn't blocked) as with the gearbox, auto or manual I want the stuffed gearbox give me a call , any probs cheers Jon Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jono51 59 Report post Posted December 30, 2010 the rear view mirror on my e38 fell off. how do i still it back up to the windshield? which part actually broke? has the holder come completly away from the screen?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites