gjm 3258 Report post Posted June 8, 2018 39 minutes ago, eliongater said: Can anyone identify this engine? It's either an m30 or m90. 4148346 35 6e a 356ea Probably be easier to tell from a picture. The early M90 has a raised water passage along the drivers side of the block along the freeze plugs; the later M90 block looks more similar to the M30. If it is a M90, there should be a white "L" painted on the passenger side of the block. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted June 8, 2018 (edited) 13 hours ago, eliongater said: Can anyone identify this engine? It's either an m30 or m90. 4148346 35 6e a 356ea http://bmwfans.info/vin/decoder?vin=4148346 yes m90 style block 93.36mm bore Edited June 8, 2018 by BM WORLD 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eliongater 718 Report post Posted June 9, 2018 5 hours ago, BM WORLD said: http://bmwfans.info/vin/decoder?vin=4148346 yes m90 style block 93.36mm bore Thanks Brent. 4148346 is stamped on the block where the 7 digit engine number should be, which is confusing. @Jono51 thinks it’s a replacement engine, so perhaps they stamped the vin of the car there instead of the engine number? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1283 Report post Posted June 10, 2018 On 6/9/2018 at 4:01 PM, eliongater said: Thanks Brent. 4148346 is stamped on the block where the 7 digit engine number should be, which is confusing. @Jono51 thinks it’s a replacement engine, so perhaps they stamped the vin of the car there instead of the engine number? most of those early cars had the vin number on the block , or a number which shows up in the vin decode . what car is it in ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eliongater 718 Report post Posted June 10, 2018 18 minutes ago, BM WORLD said: most of those early cars had the vin number on the block , or a number which shows up in the vin decode . what car is it in ? It's not currently in a car and hasn't been for a long time. The guy who had it had e12s and e3s. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted June 15, 2018 What's the recommended way to loosen belts with these types of mechanical tensioner? Mine doesn't have a hex molded into the housing (not shown in this picture) so the only thing to "grab" is bolt #5 in the diagram... except that just spins. I can remove the whole unit and get the pulley (#3) off by undoing #5 and #7 but ultimately that's no help. I realise I'd be better off upgrading to a hydraulic unit but I see no need to go to that expense since this one is holding tension just fine. I just can't loosen it to get a belt on. TIA. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted June 15, 2018 Can you get a spanner onto #7? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gabe79 410 Report post Posted June 15, 2018 (edited) 15 minutes ago, M3AN said: What's the recommended way to loosen belts with these types of mechanical tensioner? Mine doesn't have a hex molded into the housing (not shown in this picture) so the only thing to "grab" is bolt #5 in the diagram... except that just spins. I can remove the whole unit and get the pulley (#3) off by undoing #5 and #7 but ultimately that's no help. I realise I'd be better off upgrading to a hydraulic unit but I see no need to go to that expense since this one is holding tension just fine. I just can't loosen it to get a belt on. TIA. Stick a shallow socket onto the 'bolt' built into the tensioner in the picture attached and turn. I forget what it is, but it's a regular size, maybe 16mm? EDIT: Oh, yours don't look like these eh. Yeah, you be screwed. Edited June 15, 2018 by Gabe79 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted June 15, 2018 Thanks guys. 4 minutes ago, zero said: Can you get a spanner onto #7? Yes, when it's off the car... I doubt it when it's on the car without removing the alternator and then I wouldn't be able to install the belt. What did you have in mind? 2 minutes ago, Gabe79 said: Stick a shallow socket onto the 'bolt' built into the tensioner in the picture attached and turn. I forget what it is, but it's a regular size, maybe 16mm? Yes, that's what I was hoping (and expecting) to find but my housing doesn't have that hex... mine looks identical to the diagram. so slightly different to yours... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gabe79 410 Report post Posted June 15, 2018 2 minutes ago, M3AN said: Thanks guys. Yes, when it's off the car... I doubt it when it's on the car without removing the alternator and then I wouldn't be able to install the belt. What did you have in mind? Yes, that's what I was hoping (and expecting) to find but my housing doesn't have that hex... mine looks identical to the diagram. so slightly different to yours... Mine is the original on the left, and the OEM replacement on the right. Can you post a picture of yours? I have seem a technique on youtube where you stick a star socket onto the pulley and turn. If you have no bolt... maybe that? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted June 15, 2018 16 minutes ago, M3AN said: Thanks guys. Yes, when it's off the car... I doubt it when it's on the car without removing the alternator and then I wouldn't be able to install the belt. What did you have in mind? If you can tighten the bolt tight enough it might be able to be used to release the tension on the tensioner. If not, your tensioner might be faulty? 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted June 15, 2018 I don't think I can tighten it that much, no... looks like this... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted June 16, 2018 (edited) Okay, I worked out how to fix that ^ mechanical tensioner. 1. Drive 12 mins to Zebra Pick-A-Part 2. Spend 3 mins finding the only 6 cylinder BMW that's there 4. Take 5 mins to test and remove hydraulic tensioner 5. Pay $15 6. Drive 12 mins home 7. Spend 10 mins installing new tensioner and belts 8. Victory dance The problem with Pick-A-Part is coming home with more than you intended... practically mint. Edited June 16, 2018 by M3AN 3 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
allan 295 Report post Posted June 16, 2018 Have you tried using a set of multi grip pliers and get a grip of the lug on the tensioner then move it in the direction which loosens the belt .This should put the lug on the other side of the hole on the mounting plate put a suitable sized allen key in the hole this will lock the unit up. It is easier to do with the type that has the hex nut hope that helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-130 Hercules 571 Report post Posted June 27, 2018 Cheap vacuum pump needed for a school project. We have a tube of approx 1.6L volume in which we want to create a vacuum (ideally as close to 30Hg as possible. Any ideas for a cheap diy solution? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted June 27, 2018 30mm Hg? Vacuum cleaner with lots of holes in the pipe? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1071 Report post Posted June 27, 2018 5 hours ago, C-130 Hercules said: Cheap vacuum pump needed for a school project. We have a tube of approx 1.6L volume in which we want to create a vacuum (ideally as close to 30Hg as possible. Any ideas for a cheap diy solution? mmHg, or inHg? How air tight is the container, and do you need to build vacuum quickly, or does it just need to maintain the vacuum? How soon do you need something? I have quite a surprising collection of crap that I collect for nerd projects , and have an almost unlimited source of interesting goodies from old stuff at work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-130 Hercules 571 Report post Posted June 27, 2018 1 hour ago, Allanw said: mmHg, or inHg? How air tight is the container, and do you need to build vacuum quickly, or does it just need to maintain the vacuum? How soon do you need something? I have quite a surprising collection of crap that I collect for nerd projects , and have an almost unlimited source of interesting goodies from old stuff at work. Thanks Allan - need to complete it today ? Not too Fußes if it takes a little while to create vac (happy to wait a few mins) and like to maintain it for 20-30 seconds. Have attempted to use a foot pump with deflator function but that does not work unless I would install a vac valve I guess. Brake bleed pump would take ages I think. Thinking to try it with an electric inflator/deflator pump but might also not be strong enough. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Allanw 1071 Report post Posted June 28, 2018 Doh... can't help today then ? Hook it up to manifold vacuum on the car - just get a long hose ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
C-130 Hercules 571 Report post Posted June 28, 2018 (edited) 6 hours ago, Allanw said: Doh... can't help today then ? Hook it up to manifold vacuum on the car - just get a long hose ? Been thinking the same thing. I also just remembered that I should have an old AC compressor lying around somewhere... Edited June 28, 2018 by C-130 Hercules 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted June 29, 2018 An indicator flashing at double speed normally indicates (Lol) a bulb out. But what if the indicator is flashing at double speed, but all bulbs are lighting? What could cause that? It's only happening on the right turn - left is fine following a bulb replacement - and it sometimes returns to normal flash speed. ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hotwire 352 Report post Posted June 29, 2018 2 hours ago, gjm said: An indicator flashing at double speed normally indicates (Lol) a bulb out. But what if the indicator is flashing at double speed, but all bulbs are lighting? What could cause that? It's only happening on the right turn - left is fine following a bulb replacement - and it sometimes returns to normal flash speed. ? What car? Wrong bulb, though this would be a constant issue Bad connection in a bulb holder 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted June 29, 2018 (edited) On 6/29/2018 at 11:06 PM, hotwire said: What car? Wrong bulb, though this would be a constant issue Bad connection in a bulb holder E46 318i. I'll check all the bulbs abd holders for corrosion, and values/types. Update: following a visit to Kyu's for coffee and chat on Sunday morning, the consensus seems to be a wiring issue with the supply or earth to the rear offside indicator bulb. We swapped the bulbs - same problem - but using the hazard lights shows no issue, other than the rear offside being not as bright (regardless of bulb) as the nearside. Edited July 8, 2018 by gjm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
michhod 26 Report post Posted June 30, 2018 Are all E60's plagued with sensor and electrical issues or just mine!?*&%? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gjm 3258 Report post Posted July 7, 2018 (edited) Reviving an old battery... Is it possible to bring a dead battery back to life? The one I have in mind is a completely sealed lead acid 12V car battery... Currently showing about 5V. I have had some success in the past with topping up with distilled (or clean rain) water, throwing 14V across it for a bit, and then charging hard (6A) for a while, but that approach isn't practical this time. It got this way by sitting unused for an extended period of time. It was OK, did start a car before being left in the garage... Can't afford a new on at the moment! Edited July 7, 2018 by gjm Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
