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About blake12

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    1st Gear

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    2007 Euro R
  • Car 2
    Suzuki Swift

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  1. Now you can go set some laps on the track with kids in the back seat and groceries in the front. Pointless car. Anyone buying this is driving it purely for the brand and look.
  2. You'll find a better specced one with half the km's for that price easy
  3. that front bumper doesn't fit right?
  4. Even flooring it in a straight line in one of those things.... you better know what you are doing. Of course this is BMW forum so we are all top notch race drivers 😄
  5. No need for JB4 since MHD if you just looking at 350-400whp You'll need a charge pipe btw, the plastic one explodes when you up the boost - not expensive The dual cone intakes are pointless unless you want the induction sound. Pretty sure there's no gains unless your doing single turbo 500+ hp kinda builds. If anything all it means is your sucking in hot air
  6. blake12

    XHP tune

    Couldn't find anything on here regarding the XHP tune when I searched, was looking for members opinions. So thought I would post mine. I tuned stage 2 on Tuesday, and for me personally, this is possibly the best "mod" I have made to the car. Im on MHD1+, catted dp's etc. - and while the extra power is nice, it's not that usable all the time. The xhp tune however makes every aspect of driving the car better. Drive mode is sooo much smoother now. Gone are the sometimes jolty changes with the car is cold. Every change is smoother and the shift points are better for me. I'll definitely be using less gass. Swapping to manual and the speed in changes is amazing! The car pulls off from a stop so surely now, no more sluggish feeling. No more dropping to 1st by itself as im mid roundabout and making a racket. Throttle blipping on downshifts is glorious. No point in this post other to say, if you've been driving a e90 for a while and are really accustomed to it's nature, you'll notice a massive improvement with this flash.
  7. FYI If I remember correctly MHD recommends you don't run burble on hard for normal street driving. I didn't drop oil for a year, then run the burble for about a week and had smoke out the exhaust and oil needing a topup almost every 100 km's or so. Maybe it was a coincidence but since I reflashed without burble I have had 0 issues again. If you have catless DP's you should get a nice amount of burble on acceleration, without all the fake pops and bangs after you let off.
  8. "Looks very "jap import 320i"-y " ???????
  9. Down pipes will throw a light with no tune but it won't matter. With any MHD tune regardless of stage, you won't have that issue. Downpipes don't do a huge amount for performance unless you are planning on going to 2 upwards. Make sure to get a quote before install. My shop ended up taking hours longer than they anticipated
  10. Had bridgestone swap mine here in CHCH to potenza re003. They were very specific that all four needed to be done at same time legally, as I initially just wanted to start with the two rear and leave the run flats on the front. But certainly no problem in swapping all out. Even with full bolt ons, tunes etc. the tyre replacement is BY FAR the best change to this car I have made. The difference is night and day. Maybe those run flats are ok on perfect sections of the autobahn, but round Christchurch streets they were so bad I almost thought something was wrong with the car. I brought a BMW pando kit for about $150 and have that in the boot encase I ever need it.
  11. Bummer. I'm with providence and they had no problem with me doing downpipes, tune etc. They state in the small print removing cats will void cover, but I rang them first and they were happy to make an exception seeing there would still be rear cats, and noted it on my file.
  12. Not with MHD tune. It disables the check. Without it you will have a light show but it shouldn't matter. The sound wont be an issue at all on stock exhaust. They claim power increase just from the downpipes, but I didn't notice much. Just seems like the turbos spool up abit easier. If your not on MHD start with that. The difference from stock to 1+/2 is massive. Feels like a different car, and a true animal. If you just want power, your order of mods depends on how much you want but generally : stronger chargepipe and MHD 1/1+ bigger intercooler if you are on 1+ doing alot of pulls in hot weather, or tracking downpipes and MHD 2/2+ . You should be nearing 380-390hp at the wheels here. Then probably e85. I have downpipes and chargepipe installed, but am just back to running the standard MHD stage 1 tune now. I find it more than powerful for daily driving. I found I started wishing for a LSD and better suspension at stage 2, and decided to reign it in because it's a cruiser, not a track car.
  13. I got VRSF ones delivered for under $400 nz from their website. Keep in mind that the mechanic fee will likely be upwards of $4-500 depending on how easy it is. They are c**ts to put on. I paid 8 hours labour to get mine installed with some sparkplugs . do it yourself if you can be bothered. I could never hear my rattly wastegates but as soon as the downpipes went on I could here them really loud on idle and cold start. The reason for running catless downpipes is so you can up the boost and run MHD stage 2 or higher. With a stock exhaust there is basically no difference to sound, definitely no pops and bangs or anything. It's just a slightly deeper sound with them on, but not louder with stock exhaust. You do hear the turbos spool abit louder with catless dp's. You can flash burble mod if you want pops and bangs - at your own risk. If all your after is pops and bangs you don't need downpipes, just flash the burble on aggressive. You'll likely mess your cats up pretty quick and some people argue it's terrible for your turbos. If it sounds like my view on the downpipes is negative, it's not, they are great bang for buck and really open up the car for tuning potential. I just don't think there is any point in them if your not going to run MHD 2/2+, or a custom tune. Putting that much boost through the car WILL show other weaknesses if there are any.
  14. Seeing the only reason this car is 28k is because of the mileage, but the fact that it's been modded probably means it's been thrashed abit, and it's still 10 years old - and the mileage isn't so important, I can't see the justification in that price. I paid $13k for a 70,000km 2008 335i almost a year ago. Completely mint with all options. It would never have given me any issues if I hadn't had tuned it. BUT, as soon as you wind the boost up, thing's start to show their weakness. 30-70,000km is when things will fail under the higher pressure. TBH I just can't see how this car is worth more than 17-18k
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