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_ethrty-Andy_

Friseur Auto

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Monster 18 month update inbound!

Ok so as some of you will have seen in various mini updates dotted here and on facebook, I have caught a new wind on my E36 Compact project.

Stopped doing anything major for a long while as life got in the way as did other projects etc. During the down time, I managed to swap a full E30 cloth interior for a pair of as new bucket seats from James down here. Also picked up a MTech2 wheel to suit E36 and range of other parts which were all tossed in the boot of the car and forgotten about.

I was browsing the Auctions and ended up bringing home a 325i South African E36 for $180, so decided I had better start making some progress on the compact again, with this earmarked as the donor. But I needed a 6 cylinder gearbox conversion so I started more intently looking out for one. 4 weeks later, I came across a very tidy 328i Manual Motorosport coupe that had done only 135,000km. been crashed in the front. Picked that up for a very good price too. So with two donor cars and one compact ready to accept whatever I threw at it I was ready to go!

2F014FB1-4CA8-4E97-BDCA-681920B100DC_zps

1D8475EB-D85A-4FB7-90BA-1F64CE36AE76_zps

First was to take the goodies I wanted off the 325i and put that car aside.

  • Lowering suspension
  • AC Schnitzer wheels with minty tyres
  • Aftermarket exhaust system
  • South African sump gaurd

Swapped all the suspension from the compact onto the sedan, and the sedans gear onto the compact, binning the tired Boge shocks in favour of some Bilsteins from Jayden. The 325i was then banished down the back of the section to sit along side my other wrecks I have pulled all the bits I need of them waiting for buyers!

Next was the pull all the engine driveline and manual interior bits from the 328i and any other 6 cylinder bits I needed. I wont go into detail on how to remove an engine from an E36, there are enough threads on the internet that will detail that I am sure. Dont forget to remove the EWS system

Once the engine was out, I prepared that for install into the compact.

  • Aircon compressor, tensioners and mounting bracket removed. I left the Auxilary pulley on the front of the engine as I wasn’t sure if the bolts would foul on the engine block if I put them in with out it. It weighs only a few grams so no big deal.
  • Decided to keep the engine all OBD2 for now, this means as go intended in the 328i including the ASC throttle body. Just makes for less variables when swapping the engine over into the new chassis. I will be going back to swap an M50 manifold on and delete various emissions systems that are unnecessary. Both of these you do not want to do if you are building a racecar.
  • Fitted a brand new water pump even though ne in there seemed in good shape, and also removed the plastic thermostat housing and thermostat. Fitted a brand new genuine BMW 88* Thermostat inside an aftermarket alloy thermostat housing. Usually this is the first part of the cooling system to fail due to age apart from the radiator itself.
  • Usually at this point you would also replace various gaskets and seals around the engine. I didn’t, because someone has been in here before and done some preventative maintenance I suspect. There is no evidence of oil leaks anywhere on on the engine block or head. Usually at 135,000km the gaskets would be 20 year old original ones and very much game over,but not on this engine!
  • As I later found out, you also want to remove the coolant/heater pipe that comes perpendicular off the back of the head and fit one from an M20 engine with a 90 degree bend in it. This is because the donor for the M52 has a dual climate HVAC system which has three hoses through the firewall, with a unit in the engine bay to split one feed into two. The compact however just has a simple two hose system like an E30 or similar.

Next step is to prepare the compact engine bay to accept a 6 cylinder engine.

  • Remove brackets for the coils up on strut tower and the power steering reservoir bracket
  • Remove underbonnet battery box/tray and cabling if car is so equipped, you do not have room to run this up front with a 6 cylinder engine.
  • Swap main power steering hard lines over to 6 cylinder type. From memory I required both of these
  • Install clutch hard line over the firewall, much easier with the engine out. My car did not have the small bracket on the side of the transmission tunnel the hose usually goes through. You could cut this bracket off your donor and weld this bracket on if you wish. I didn’t. A factory manual compact should have this I would think.
  • Remove the nose of the car if you haven’t done this already when removing the 4 cylinder
  • Now is a good time to install the 6 cylinder EWS bits. There are 4 pieces to change, the DME (obviously!), the Chip in the Key (plenty of online tutorials on that), the EWS module (left hand side of the car under dash), and pretty sure the amplifier for the antenna is also specific to the kit, I swapped it over anyways. It is not necessary to change antenna ring, as it is literally just that, but does help you find the little amplifier.
  • Install 6 cylinder throttle cable
  • Install battery in boot cable from your donor
  • Remove the linkage between the steering column and the steering rack. Makes a lot more clearance to get the 6 cylinder in, remember these cars are designed left hand drive and adapted for right hand drive. IMPORTANT: If your car is an airbag car, MAKE SURE your front wheels are pointing dead ahead, and your steering lock is ON so your wheel cant move. You don’t want your steering wheel to somehow spin by itself and mess up your wires. I am not saying this from experience as my compact doesn’t have airbags, but just something to be aware of.

Now put your engine in the hole! and hook everything up!

Now the driveshaft can go in. I fit the complete driveshaft (both halves) from my donor into the compact, and bolted up just fine to the factory compact diff. I will be replacing the diff with a medium case of a better ratio and LSD at some stage but will be using this diff for this step of the project. I am aware of some differences in diff flanges. Im not sure if I got lucky, but worked for me.

Exhaust can be solved using parts you already have which is nice and helps to keep the cost down. If you are running an aftermarket exhaust from here then just do that, otherwise read next few bullet points:

  • After installing driveshaft, you may need to change the rear driveshaft hoop to one from a 6 cylinder car. This will have the appropriate brackets you need for the next step. I cant find a picture of the hoop (cant be bothered looking harder to be honest) but its the hoop that part 7 and 8 bolt into in the below image. The compact hoop does not have provisions for these bolts/brackets
  • http://bmwfans.info/parts-catalog/E36-Coupe/Europe/328i-M52/R-M/browse/exhaust_system/catalyst_lambda_probe
  • Now replace all heat shielding
  • Front section you use whatever came on your donor car. A 328i will have a front section like the above picture. A 325i will have one that looks similar and mounts the same. Either way, they mount onto that hoop. Plug in the oxygen sensors if equipped while you think of it.
  • For the rear half, you can either run a custom setup, modify the 4 cylinder compact rear to suit or, in my case since I had an aftermarket catback out of the 325i, I found I was able to take 200mm out of that and add 450mm steel rod on the back of the muffler to marry up with the compact hanger. This does foul on the axles at full wheel extension, but shortening the shocks and/or running coilovers etc would solve this problem and let the axle miss the exhaust at full drop. I haven’t decided if I will go for a custom build catback or shorten the shocks yet.

From here, this turns back into my project instead of an instruction manual :)

Deleted the bonnet release on the nose and also on the bonnet it self while i was at it, put nose back on, installed bonnet pins, put a M3/318iS type bumper on (not just regular M sport) i had lying around.

Got everything connected up in the engine bay

Only thing I have left to do to get the engine started is to install the battery cable from the engine bay to the cabin of the car.

Still have a bunch of goodies on the 328i to swap over to the compact too but this is where I am up to for now. :)

Edited by _Ethrty-Andy_
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great to read of your progress, Andy. I really dig this project.

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nice , but where are the photo's :)

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yeah i forgot to take some yesterday always my intention to put a few today! just took some quick ones just now. Its very grubby and have also brought some calypso cans to deal with the pain peel on the rear quarter. front gaurd i have a spare as new calypso one out the back for sedan, should fit this i think. not sure if i will paint the bumpers red as well, or paint the bottom of the doors silver to complete two tone look, think it would look a bit different if i did the latter...

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was looking as i did this, there is plenty of room to make up a diffusre for the back bumper instead of put the OEM piece back in, hmm maybe one day..

Edited by _Ethrty-Andy_

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two more

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BCB574F4-54A6-4256-9372-F871C82CCB39_zps

Remember, these are mid project so not all tidy yet!

I did also forget to say i swapped the cluster and using the cluster from the 328i donor as well, wasnt sure if it was required but swapped anyways. If anyone can confirm this is required i will update my guide above. If not required also let me know!

Edited by _Ethrty-Andy_
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4 banger dashes run 4 cylinder tachos so you did the right thing changing it to a 6 cylinder cars instrument cluster.

Otherwise you would have had to buy a converter unit. (Dakota Digital SGI-8)

Love the mesh headlights!!!! <3

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The pin configuration is completely different. Keep the Ti dash and get a instrument technician to convert it to 6cylinder

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Looks rad. I'm digging the colour of that dash. Keep it up! :D

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I vote for two tone colour scheme! Need to get new daily so I can racecar my compact too.

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4 banger dashes run 4 cylinder tachos so you did the right thing changing it to a 6 cylinder cars instrument cluster.

Otherwise you would have had to buy a converter unit. (Dakota Digital SGI-8)

Love the mesh headlights!!!! <3

Thanks mike, my thoughts exactly. my 4 cylinder one was playing up when i started the car with the old 4 cylinder in there.

Yeah put the mesh in there as the headlights were broken anyways, thinking i might put some of those little 1.5" or so round projector lights in the fog light holes maybe, my old man has some on his off roader and they put out enough light for the purpose. this one is not a road car obviously.

The pin configuration is completely different. Keep the Ti dash and get a instrument technician to convert it to 6cylinder

6 cylinder one plugs in with no mods, powers up just fine, all the lights and the odometer go on appropriate lights go out, fuel gauge is reading accurately, rpm seems to be accurate, I cant test road speed, econometer or temperature yet.

Im not saying your wrong necessarily but... I will look at an ETM and see what differences your referring too.

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Is the exhaust system a two pipe system from start to finish or two into one?. Don't forget to check that all the earth cables are connected and tight

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Is the exhaust system a two pipe system from start to finish or two into one?. Don't forget to check that all the earth cables are connected and tight

stock 328i front section is two the whole way, rear section shortened and slightly modified 325i sedan with a merge into the back box, which is probably a bit of a restriction.

and on that note, have decided i will be making a custom catback for this car i think.

Got the car started up today, lubed up power steering etc. just need to tidy up a few more things, bolt down the battery, and also source a M20 rear coolant hose then can take it for a drive.

made a quick little video of the car, check it out on the Euro Car Club page or on my own facebook page if i am friends with you, I cant post video directly to here, and I dont know how to upload to youtube from my phone to post here.

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6 cylinder one plugs in with no mods, powers up just fine, all the lights and the odometer go on appropriate lights go out, fuel gauge is reading accurately, rpm seems to be accurate, I cant test road speed, econometer or temperature yet.

Im not saying your wrong necessarily but... I will look at an ETM and see what differences your referring too.

I found 6 cylinder cluster worked just fine in my compact, the whole thing was plug and play.

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I tried 2 and then just got the original modified. All good if it works. I had issues with ABS & ASC warning lights with mine when I tried changing them.

I also used the glow plug light for my water level sensor

Edited by *Glenn*

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Yep road tested car today everything is working as it should!

Glenn your X69 plug, body side, probably doesn't have the pins in it for the ASC and ABS, would be much simpler and more correct to repin this plug correctly. X69 also carries all the automatic stuff so will be empty except for about 5 pins like my one

Edited by _Ethrty-Andy_
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Do a skid

Have done so

Ripped a diff bushing

Sick.

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Got the 328i front brakes swapped over onto the compact this morning, and also fitted the sump guard off the South African 325i i have here.

Will hopefully pick up a shroud for the radiator up at pickapart this afternoon as the one i have is all broken and fit that.

Booked in with my mate to have a custom cutback made up on Monday next week.

Really need to find an LSD for it though as the open combined with the 4.44 such a short ratio it just spins the rear wheels anything beyond half throttle in any of the first 3 gears. It sits at 2100rpm in 5th at 50km/h currently so will be over 4 grand in top gear at 100.... theoretical top speed of just 160km/h

328i 2.93

M3 3.15

M3 Evo 3.23

all same ZF gearbox

If i use about 3.4 that will give me theoretical top speed approx 230km/h which should be about top speed for this car on any Kiwi track anyways I would think??

Bear in mind i need to find this ratio in an E30 diff, not an E36 diff.

So a prefacelift E30 325i should have this, also some prefacelift 320i

If anyone has something they think i might like, even if its not an LSD, let me know!

Edited by _Ethrty-Andy_
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Dunno why i clicked enter so soon, not all i was gunna say!

New VIX oil filter on Wednesday and Penrite Race oil in the engine

Also added some goodies to dress the car up a bit

M3 front splitter, paired with the M3 mesh in the lower bumper, its almost complete M3 conversion to the bumper, still some bits to come

Clear tails - piece of cake

Clear fronts, bit harder to install, they rely on the headlights being present in factory form, very simple to modify to make work, however do need the pin on the back that so often snaps off.

Have some M Trim to arrive for the sides and front bumper sitting at Brents place,

All just smarten it up a bit and make it not look like a 316ti lol to be honest i am not a fan of the E36 as a whole, so anything to make it look a bit better must be a good thing lol

Pictures as it sits now

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393AACD0-12F3-43A3-8864-7A51A5246C0A_zps

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Got the 328i front brakes swapped over onto the compact this morning, and also fitted the sump guard off the South African 325i i have here.

Will hopefully pick up a shroud for the radiator up at pickapart this afternoon as the one i have is all broken and fit that.

Booked in with my mate to have a custom cutback made up on Monday next week.

Really need to find an LSD for it though as the open combined with the 4.44 such a short ratio it just spins the rear wheels anything beyond half throttle in any of the first 3 gears. It sits at 2100rpm in 5th at 50km/h currently so will be over 4 grand in top gear at 100.... theoretical top speed of just 160km/h

328i 2.93

M3 3.15

M3 Evo 3.23

all same ZF gearbox

If i use about 3.4 that will give me theoretical top speed approx 230km/h which should be about top speed for this car on any Kiwi track anyways I would think??

Bear in mind i need to find this ratio in an E30 diff, not an E36 diff.

So a prefacelift E30 325i should have this, also some prefacelift 320i

If anyone has something they think i might like, even if its not an LSD, let me know!

Andy, I think you will find a 3.4 too tall.

E30 series cars run 4.1 which is pretty much ideal.

I realize you have a different engine but you are still unlikely to get near 230kmh on NZ tracks.

I think you will probably be better suited to late 3's or 4.1

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Andy, I think you will find a 3.4 too tall.

E30 series cars run 4.1 which is pretty much ideal.

I realize you have a different engine but you are still unlikely to get near 230kmh on NZ tracks.

I think you will probably be better suited to late 3's or 4.1

One thing to keep in mind when comparing e30 series diff ratios is that 5th gear ratios are different. e30s have an overdrive 5th and the 1.00 ratio is 4th gear. The ZF is 1.00 in 5th, so needs a taller diff to acheive the same RPM.

I do agree that 230km/h would be pretty ambitious even with more power. Handy calculator here...

http://www.bokchoys.com/differential/e46_gear_ratio_calculator.htm

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Andy, I think you will find a 3.4 too tall.

E30 series cars run 4.1 which is pretty much ideal.

I realize you have a different engine but you are still unlikely to get near 230kmh on NZ tracks.

I think you will probably be better suited to late 3's or 4.1

I hear what you are saying, though the ZF has a 1:1 5th gear it is not overdrive 0.8:1 like the E30 series cars use.

4.1 will give top speed about 160, definately will be quicker than that

3.6 i could go for, top speed about 190, but would like to think its got a bit more than that...?

Edit: I am using this calculator:

http://www.endtuning.com/gearratios/

... while also referencing this to check feasibility of actually finding appropriate ratios

http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/Differential

Edited by _Ethrty-Andy_

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