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Thought I might add my 2cents worth to this discussion. I think it is a really good idea to get as much time on the track as you can, doesn't really matter how or where, so long as you remember a few things. As when driving on the road, always think of the other driver as an idiot and make allowances of space and time. Enjoy your time on the track, that's why you do it. Make sure your car is prepared, fluids pads etc. Make sure you're prepared, helmet, cotton overalls, fire extinguisher, current wof, unless it is a track dedicated car. Treat your experience on the track as a chance to learn how to drive fast, not how to beat the other car which is coming up from behind, or in front of you. Don't try to race any other cars, unless you know them, and have talked it through before you go out. Spend your first couple of sessions getting into it slowly. If you make a mistake then you are more likely to come out of it on the right side. And the most important thing, get out of your car with a huge grin on your face, having had the time of your life.

There was a fair bit of controversy over some of the DINAN parts i.e their manifold upgrades for the m62tu just being m60 inlet manifolds with changed part numbers. I like there style though, they do a lot of research and testing and am pretty sure they are backed by BMWNA

Do once, do right. With an S62 it's a car you could keep for life and always be excited by!

Jamez and I are looking at starting up the twilight stuff again ... Its easy enough to put a transponder in a car and record the laptimes ... Amber this is one of the main reasons I built the e30 for time attack runs. Lots of us hit the track days, I actually lost enthusiam for the public open days because of numbers clogging the track. It felt like the auckland motorway at some points. The other problem was you would have to wait an hour to get out on the track because they let all of the other traffic out. Made it hard to come in and adjust setup if something wasnt running right. I started showing up aorund 11-12 instead of in the morning just to let the masses get it out of their system. The semi private twilights are where its at. Its a lot more relaxed atmosphere. Amber I think first off, go and do a few track days and get bitten by the bug, you will then learn the mechanical limits of your car and the track.. This will push you to do things like getting a second set of wheels and tires for track days only, because 19s on the track are useless (unless youre tom with CSL specific michelens on $$$$$) And preparing yourself a track day 'go bag'. After this, everything else on the road seems silly. Getting a bunch of mates alone who have their cars is awesome, some of the best times in cars are with this. Its a bit lonely doing it yourself so doing it with mates makes it soooo much better. Bank on around $400 each time. Which will include fluids, entry fee, petrol there, around the track and back, lunch and other random stuff. You can do it for cheaper but in the end thats what youll end up spending when you start to wear things out. So once you get into it .. Can start talking doing a superlap style thing .. Can put you in touch with Jamez if you want to know more about setting up an event at hamptons and what is required, tips etc.

Haha, yea I would love the S62. But $15K is a little out of reach for now. Like my 540 M62 pulls pretty sweet at the moment, but it really does need to be rebuilt or at least cleaned up enough to withstand the supercharger being rammed onto it. Guess if I was to sell my Mazda Atenza, I could take that and the $5k for the engine rebuild and buy the S62.

We recommend 15,000 or every 12 months after the vehicle is 3 years old

Went a bit nuts on the wax and coated it 3 times and tooth brush cleaned it all.

Very sweet ! You drove mine....can I drive yours ?! :-)

Looks like it was lucky to be crashed before it got slapped with a pinky!

Most incidents at a Public track day only involve one car. It is uncommon for someone to hit another car. And it sounds like Ashkans mate had the same experiance as mine at the Superlap day. Stuff all track time is a real let down at any track day. I have found that you don't get that much bang for buck at the Playday days either. Can also get crowded. Running a Bimmersport day is a no go too. No commitment from anyone. You could see if Euro club would have the numbers. And the last Bimmersport day we had in Taupo someone rolled their E46 on Lap 1.

Thanks Josh. For the Schnitzer before the track day in the wet - which to be honest I didn't go fast at all, or even heat up my brakes, I ran Dot4, Hawk HPS and had a full service couple thousand Ks before hand - so was ready to an extent. M3 is up there next with the same things - Brake Pads, Fluid, Service. I have done the Diff Service, just need general service next. Sorry, should state RAY has done all this haha! Lots of learning. I have a fantastic friend who races well in the Porsche Cup who has offered to help me out around a track - and sit with me and give me some tips and hints.

Graham (Apex) said something when I first started that stuck with me and I even do now days. Do the first several laps at no more than 80% .. then look to have a a couple of screaming laps then warm down. This way you can build up to it in both your car and your mind. About the others, most of the regular track dayers will spot people and not try and late brake or set up if someone looks like theyre new at it. All that will happen is both will end up in a big mess. So Im yet to see anyone whos been bad. When you first start the scarier moments are look out for are race cars (or people running slicks / big brakes etc) They can outbrake, take proper lines, power past and out corner any car. The best thing you can do is on the straights take quick glances every few seconds in the rear vision mirror and hold your line. Its their problem to get around your car. Even in a corner if theyre sitting up your a*s just hold your line and they will go around. Takes a bit to get use to it if your new to it. Like wise if you are the fast car, at public days always leave a gap for errors of you and the person your over taking. When your learning, leave DSC on. While it cuts in on the track a little too much it keeps you safe while you learn your chassis and its limits. Seen quite a few people who turn it off after one outting and end up in the wall powering out of turn 1 or turn 4 of hamptons. Car wise, make sure your brake fluid is in top condition. Use a great dot4 or 5.1 fluid. For this I use motul as its rated for race temps .. even your road car will get up there in temp. The last thing you want is screaming along down the straigt and you boiled your fluid and created air bubbles in the lines .. hit the pedal and nothing. It _really_ knocks your confidence when it happens .. Pads, just make sure theyre in good condition. OEM pads are great around the track, cheaper aftermarket pads and discs will warp after time. Road tires will start to over heat pretty quick and loose grip at higher temps. Cheaper tires will start to have side wall issues. Tire pressures should be around 34-36psi or 38-40+ on low profile tires. Engine oil and filter should be new or near new. Cooling system should be checked and in top condition Other things like trans or gear box fluid should be looked at. For the next track day, I always change my brake fluids and engine oil gets a really good look. If it smells burnt .. it gets binned. typing all of this stuff mainly as a FYI for others

Gotta agree 100%. Also, usually found almost everyone behaves pretty well out there. The starting late morning works well at 'open' open puke type days. All the skidders have busted at least one thing and are going home for the day.

Lead car is 1993 Toyota Supra. Damn. Then an E30. If this was a full on grid start motorsport race - I would understand the extreme need of roll cages etc. But it's just a basic sorta run. Would be gooood to see my chances. Not many. if any. No harm in trying right?

OP should be the template for all For Sale listings. GLWS, looks like a great buy.

Too late sorry. Wont be doing another one in the forseeable future, done them for 5 years now, supplied well over 200 sets, about 450 plates at last count. Time to hang up the keys to this thread. But someone else can pick up the can now if they want, I will put you in touch with my contacts etc for the better pricing, though he may take the opportunity to increase the pricing a bit anyways, i am still buying at the prices he gave me 5 years ago. Having said that: I do have plenty of the black type stickers here for these plates also some extra frames etc So for those of you that have brought before, you can send me a PM any time now or in the future and I can send you out some stickers. Sorry, no blue stickers available, as they are fitted by the German supplier, I only fit the black ones here. Hope this helps.

I have done several conversions. There is no one way of doing them so you need to decide which route you want to take. Most of the conversion uses OEM bits, which ones depends on which route you take. There is some fabrication always necessary i.e. exhaust. Wiring is not difficult but your 323i is a little more complex than a later model. The first part you need to locate is a sump, normally from an e34. Stay clear of any later e46 motor as they use CAN BUS and that makes life VERY difficult in the wiring dept. Stick to using a M52B28 from an e36. You must get the motor with MCU and loom (it does not matter if the loom is from an auto), and also the EWS box, key with chip and the ring antenna. You can get the ECU reflashed to remove the EWS but that is just another expense which is not necessary IMO. You can use the G260 box and e30 flywheel but the standard e30 clutch is not up to it. You will also have to modify the gearbox mounting crossmember and the shift rods when installing it behind the M52 as the motor sits at a slightly different angle. The advantage in using the G260 box is that it has an overdrive 5th which means you can use a standard 3.46/3.64/3.73 etc e30 ratio diff (whichever grabs your fancy..!) Using the e36 box with 1:1 5th means you need to source an e30 188 diff in the 2.93/3.25 range and those are not easy to come by. Propshaft will depend on what e36 box you use. The e30 m40/42 box can also be used and has an overdrive 5th but is not as strong as the G260. Giving it too much jandal might shorten it's lifespan.. Normally you use the e36 radiator with an electric fan up front. You can fit a viscous fan but this requires careful planning as clearances are tight. (I run viscous in my e30 cab with no issues, also have electric installed as a backup but it has never switched on except when I use the a/c.) While you are at it, replacing the e30 rack is a good thing to do. e36/e46 racks can be used, which one depends on what ratio you want and how much you want to spend on it. There are lots of other bits that need doing but these are the bigger ones. Other things like suspension, brakes, mounting rubbers need checking/upgrading as necessary depending on what you have/find when you go through the car. Done properly, the m52b28 conversion is totally reliable and transforms the e30. The ali block means it is lighter than the m20 so handling is improved. IMO it is the best bang for buck conversion you can do to an ageing e30.

I joined an alfa forum once. Got two generic answers. Ring the dealer amd buy a factory part. Or get a bank loan then ring the dealer for the factory part. I got banned for showing how i glued a light lens back on. I find it funny how some of the "key knowledge base guys" as good as they are get pissy when people dont take their advice to the letter. When much of their experiance was gained by going against advice and trying new things to find better solutions. Im sure many of those guys were taught by guys who scoffed at efi now they are tuning shift points on smg modules. Mistakes breed ingenuity so dont knock it. That being said the lowest point i think is members new or old who steal from other members. Hellafunktional and that cut springs douchebag pop to mind.