Leaderboard

does anyone else watch this, has some very interesting stuff

winner! Sold for $5600!

So, another cheeky bastard I think... sale ‘fell through’ it seems, like every $1 auction now FPO for leading bid. Or leading bidder changed their mind...

Does my 15s start now? *Ahem* "Thank you very much. I'll be here all week" [/drop mike]

Can you stop arguing on every single thread? People wont want to post projects if they know they will be attacked.

It would be easy to modify for EV and higher voltages. The PTC elements are available in different voltage ranges. They don't series well being a PTC - the first one to go higher in resistance gets it. The FET's used in this design are only 60V rated but really low ESR. Higher voltage won't need as much current so using a higher voltage FET's with a higher ESR will give similar losses. The biggest problem with the current PCB is the voltage clearance between the tracks. For higher voltage you'd really want to use bigger clearances. For high reliability DC circuits I always use 'reinforced' creapage and clearance rules (4x the standard). Dead FET's are detected in the control logic and the relays are opened (a fault LED comes on). There's also redundant temperature sensors which will open the relays. The PTC elements will also max out at 210'C and power limit. Not that I'd want this temperature sitting in the plastic heater box - most likely would start melting things. 3 levels of safety should make it safe. It's all tested and working ok. The only problem I have is the control uP is active all the time, even with the ignition off. For now I've pulled the power plug from the PCB. It appears the 12V supply I've used from the heater solenoid is not switched. I'll have to find a switched source that comes on with the heater power. I assumed the heater solenoid power would be switched with the ignition - should have checked it first. This is the only error though. The heater control logic is working perfectly and heat comes out the vents. The heat is nowhere near as strong as the original water based radiator but I'd expected that. It's hard to tell now when it's already warm if it will be enough heat in winter. It's going to be much better than it was though - it didn't used to work at all. I can't check the current draw because I don't have a DC clamp meter anymore. I'll have to borrow one from work to test what the power draw is. I suspect it will be a bit more than 300W each side because the PTC elements actually have an initial negative coefficient so the wattage goes up until they hit about 160'C and then the resistance rapidly starts to rise. Since I'm operating them at 95'C the resistance is about 20% lower so I'm likely drawing 360W+...

No choice but to burn it with fire then

Eh?? I don't think you understand basic physics... Do you use your aircon for cooling - this is not really any better than electric heating? The aircon uses rotational energy just the same as the alternator... I don't really care what you think anyway. It's installed now so no going back...

Don't think that's what he meant at all

Whoops! Embarrassing mistake on my behalf, apologies.

I love watching it. I'm surprised more people don't talk about it or that it isn't more popular to be honest. Great video and audio quality with a good host and an interesting topic. Much better than the car shows you see on TV nowadays with all the fake drama.

Cheeky bastard Sold for 11.9k now $15K no reserve

Can you not do anything activation test on the lock with INPA?

It's been a while - had to work over labour weekend so no progress for 2 weeks. I now have a week off work as days in lieu... Since HB day was on the Friday I got 4 days so took a days annual as well. The only thing left to do is test the software. I'll start this tomorrow and see how badly wrong it is. Following is some progress photo's. The new PCB fits where the old aluminum water pipes came out and headed towards the firewall. I've bunged up the two openings where the water pipes and aircon pipes came through. Where the old heater core used to sit also needed a plate fitted which worked out well because it's also where the cables now come out. A plate was fabricated to fit and then holes drilled for the cable entry. The cables that go out to the water solenoid on X35 and X10054 have been clipped off near the connectors and joined into the control cables for the new board. This means the original solenoid plug can be cut off or just tied off (at least it's not powered now). Side view showing how the board fits where the pipes came out. Original Plugs and new main power relays New Power Relays - the main power connection goes onto the unused tabs. Another view, looking from the front. Heater cores with all the wiring installed. The blue cables are shielded signal types which connect to the LT9701 temperature sensors clamped under the rectangular blocks of ally.

I'm not sure we read the same article here, but ok... The study is by a university, which, generally, is an institution that doesn't employ clowns, I think you misread and thought this was a circus? They show their data in the study, you're welcome to dispute the data if you'd like. As an example, I'll dispute the data you state about an EV costing $40-50k. I paid $10k for my used Leaf. Same same here. We went from $100-200/month to no noticeable difference in our electricity bill. The car pays for itself eventually. No ICE can have that said for it... It means that the emissions go down depending on how clean your energy source is. The 50% argument is made against coal, if your energy sources are clean already, like they are here (and the example given which is roughly comparable is Sweden...) then the decrease can be as much as 85% less emissions in total.

All these guys were great; @BM WORLD I've bought a few things from Brent - great as always. @needsprings - doors @gjm - towbar @EUROHO - body panels @Olaf - springs and MD headdeck @francoisv - e36 shell All I can remember for now.

You missed a few steps there Dan.. Pay MAF fee. Get told by MAF car is too dirty and needs to be steam cleaned. Pay fee to designated MAF steam cleaners for car to be "properly" cleaned. Get told by MAF car needs to have under body and wheel arch liners removed as they have water behind them (not from the steam cleaning surely...) Pay another fee to designated MAF cleaners to have parts on car ripped off removed and cleaned behind. Try and pay GST. Find out you have to be "registered" as an importer, set up Importer number. Try and pay GST Find out you are registered as a Business Importer not Private Importer as you were sent the wrong form. Get correct form, register as Private Importer. Try and pay GST and find out you already have a number!! Pay GST. Get car.. etc.. Find half of trims have been thrown into the back of the car still wet and have not been refitted as they are now broken, and find the other half are still attached to the car and haven't been removed or cleaned behind. Take to compliance, if you can get hold of some dealer plates, if not, get company to take to compliance. Pick up / get picked up from compliance Buy parts to fix the list of bits the compliance people have picked up. Get parts fitted / fit parts. Take back to compliance / get taken back. Register car.. Get to enjoy vehicle. And if you are really lucky you get to add in the extra steps.. Go to collect car on trailer.. Find driver's window smashed. Ask why.. get told "the keys got locked in the car" ... really? in an E30? And no-one asked if I have a spare key - which is here, in my hand..? Get blind f**kwit to guide you onto trailer so you scrape the door on the trailer. Buy replacement window. Chase shipping company to pay for window... It's a great game!