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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/15/19 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    New lens meant car 'test' photos. Teamed up with @mossline to go double trouble.
  2. 5 points
    To follow up... After chatting to a couple of members, It seemed like the only logical place and person to go see was Zane at Automatic Transmission Repairs in Plimmerton. He's a certified ZF whizz and covered to do MBI work also. Pretty much everything was replaced bar the drums. This included a split valve block, all bearings, clutch packs, pistons, pressure regulator valves etc etc, The list goes on... Zane really knows his stuff and takes the time to answer questions. Having been here before with an L322 Range Rover with the same m62tu and ZF 5hp 24 box, it was reassuring! It took a few weeks because the job was as big as it could have been and a bunch of parts and overhaul kits had to come from overseas. He didn't disappoint and i now have my car back running better than ever. Any gearbox woes? Go see Zane at Automatic Transmission repairs in Plimmerton
  3. 3 points
  4. 2 points
    This is the video I was telling you about Richard. And is the reason I decided not to fit X pipes to my own E55 headers. They work at low speeds to mix the gases/sound but at high speed they do next to zero (maybe some scavenging but you wont notice the difference on a dyno imo). As you can see if you watch the leading edge of the exhaust pulse gas it likes to follow what I would call the inside edge or short radius bend of the tubes. This is also why I do not tend to make what I would call a parallel centre to parallel entry/exit design X pipe and like Richards I prefer the Splayed centre to parrallel entry exit design as it forces the gases to mix more. This is all from my own experience doing this on old restomod chev and ford v8's. If your after outright flow out of an x pipe the parallel centre to parallel entry/exit x pipe is the best bet if you want an x pipe. H pipes I wouldnt even bother with but thats just me. Of course I will fabricate whatever the customer wants. I prefer just twin straight through totally separate exhausts on v8's. My ears like that the best. Its all a matter of opinion and everyone has a different one on how they want their car to sound. Obviously street cars are a different scenario to race cars. I have never really seen anyone make any real hp from a x pipe or h pipe or Y pipe its all 1-5hp or nothing the scavenging effect that far down the line is usually not a massive factor imo. If it was me I would be semi gutting the rear mufflers now. But I agree with michael on what he says about the duals.
  5. 1 point
    I'm after one of the above wheel, part number 36-11-2-229-155 Cheers
  6. 1 point
    https://trademe.nz/motors/cars/mazda/mx-5/listing/2259194662
  7. 1 point
    Really interesting tear down of the New B58. Quite a few surprises over your normal 6cyl Turbo. Very interesting.
  8. 1 point
    After the E39 developed some rear interior rattles i went on the hunt for solutions from adding foam rings to door clips, replacing some clips , lubed the door card edes where they contact the door frame....all with no major change I even contemplated pulling the rear deck out again to investigate where the heck the creaks and rattles were coming from. As an avoidance tactic to that i trawled various forums on the subject of E39 rattle solution i came across this forum link, https://www.m5board.com/threads/fix-for-creaking-and-rattling-doors.137711/page-3 the tips in here about performing some TLC on door seals and rubber bits and adding strips of insulation tape to the strike plates to ensure a ever so slightly firmer latch was life changing, After doing this the interior is rattle free.
  9. 1 point
    ok hopefully pick it up next week , let you know ,
  10. 1 point
    Saw you cruising by the airport a couple weeks ago. It looks stunning!
  11. 1 point
    The 330 clubsport is now in assembly phase after all the dirty work is done...
  12. 1 point
    The next focus is on exterior lighting. As mentioned the car was optioned for xenons but what i got was halogens, and only one low beam light worked. The bulb holders were stuffed and missing tabs so would wiggle around while driving, only the o-rings were keeping them from falling out. I bought some xenon headlights that needed a bit of a refurb, namely adjusters and the lenses need a wet sanding/polishing session. Below are a few pics i took for reference if anyone is planning on replacing the adjusters in facelift e39 xenon headlights without removing the lenses. It’s really not too difficult, but patience is definitely needed. Feel free to PM me for more details on this repair ?
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