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While you're not wrong, I think its becoming a BMW thing? I'm on the gold dust trail for manual conversion.

MTOY is now TIER. I had this plate on another car for a while, but time for a change. I like 4 letter plates. Also has a new water pump. Plans are to actually drive this car; it has travelled around 1,000kms the past year, and barely any of it with me driving. Next up replace the brakes. It's running CSL rotors, calipers and textile pads but they're getting a bit low. Likely going to do Stoptech bbk.

If the prices on TradeMe for E30 parts are where the market is then I’m sitting on a gold mine and should retire tomorrow. Should you want your eyes to really water, go on one of the E30 M3 sites, E30 tax x M3 tax is moonbeams! “Genuine E30 M3 door handle surround US$50” etc, when it’s the same as any E30. And then there’s the S14Bxx parts.. 💰

Just seen a PFL rolling shell, dead rego, advertised for $4k. And a pair of used Koni springs for an E30 listed at $200. E30 tax is alive and well!

Having to drop $900 on two new front seatbelts to meet LVVTA standards with aftermarket seats, to replace your perfect condition existing seatbelts which are exactly the fekcen same.

Would you believe that the second OEM replacement windscreen also has a fault in it! New one arrives Friday.

xHP trans tune doing its thing....

A few years ago I bought this E30 318 from a young chap in Pakuranga with new wof for $5.5k and 5 months later sold it for about $800 after my wof guy nearly died at the covered-up rust all along both sill seams. At $15k now, I wonder has all the rust been repaired? I was ripped off to the point of criminal at the time, hopefully the price now reflects a thorough repair of an attractive car.

Update For the cert I had to send the brake booster assembly to Wellington to the lvvta technical advisory committee to be assessed They said they would approve the design with some changes The pivot arm has to be made from 8mm steel (mine was 6mm same as factory) then I have to reduce the end thickness to fit the factory clevis 6mm The tube has to be fully tig welded on both sides (factory method was a mig stitch weld) Send it for non destructive testing (crack test,x ray?) So getting that underway now Its good to know these guys are making sure everything is as safe as it can be, While that was away for a month I decided to get the heater working,I put a new o ring in the heater tap because 1st leak,I re rounded the alloy heater pipe ends because leak 2,I removed heater core and took the end tanks off because leak 3. I really should have done all that before I put the carpet back in Im not sure if they’re worth trying to repair? Or are they all going to be close to being past there best before date? If I can even find one……

I sold a garage full of E30 parts for $500 just over 3 years ago. And two coupes at about $1500 the pair... At the time there was no choice. We were moving and it all had to go. 😢