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I'm thinking of selling my 330i next year, it might tick some boxes for you. It's higher km but with good service history, I've spent a lot on the usual M54 things. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-Kw4RsE4FKP9GdL8LFC_DJ_DqObRDxkt

Yeah bro. But the chassis legs that this attaches to are bent. Will need pulling or replacing. I just went through a similar process with a clients e30. Had to get a repair certifier involved, chassis machine cost was 2.5k plus gst, then the 3d chassis report was 850 plus gst, panel beaters costs of doing the work, then recompliance costs. Also having 252k on it would have to allow for things like rear subframe bushes, trailing arm bushings, rotors and pads all round, front control arm bushings, front balljoints, shocks, handbrake shoes etc, it could add up quite a bit. From what I saw when looking at it, it would be a big undertaking but if you have the know how and money behind you as well as a timeframe for quick turn around, then go for it. Repair certification costs everytime the repair certifier comes lol it can add up. Just to make the other forum members aware of the process! What a shame though. Would be perfect for a reshell !

Excellent runner. $9500 Well optioned LCI model with many options: Sunroof Active steering Adaptive Headlights Comfort Access PDC front & Rear

Started this project almost two years ago after I sold the 850i and finally got the car road legal yesterday (cert, WOF and rego). The goal was to build a very fast, comfortable tourer that I can use for daily driving, which meant retaining the automatic gearbox, ASC and AC - which all turned out to be pretty complicated!! Had a lot of help from a bunch of people but a big shout at to Brendon (Assault) and Westy as this would just be a paperweight without them! Car has an M62b44 (non-vanos) drivetrain with custom sump mounted to a modified front subframe. Gearbox is a 5hp24 tiptronic slushbox from the same donor car as the engine (97 E39 540i) with modified driveshaft. It has a bunch of other interesting mods and, at some point, I'll document everything we did to get this thing working. As far as I know, it's the only RHD M62-powered E36 in the world with auto, ASC and AC!!

That's a beauty. Hope it won't be too awkward with me having a white car with black plate and grey numbers.

They certainly weren't my first choice @E30 325i Rag-Top but the car will be out of comission til 12th Jan otherwise. I think my ideal option would've been a non chain outfit fitting an OEM screen but that wouldn't have been any quicker Fortunately it only has auto wipers and high beam assist so hopefully a lower chance of being stuffed up. I'm realistic that it might need another screen (the 'buy cheap, buy twice' principle at work)

BU will VO code your HU in about 20sec, or if you’ve made retrofits without FA updating, you can individually change the settings easy enough. 3 of the 4 things you need to code are easy, the odd one being the phone cradle. You may need to change the USB options to activate usb2 and/or activate the usb hub option depending on the phone cradle config.. I’d try VO coding it first if your FA is stock/up to date. esys comes with a complimentary “I hope this doesn’t screw it up” feeling every you are about to press the code button.. BimmerUtility = easy

https://weitzindustries.com/collections/e30/products/e30-front-cut?variant=30288115793995

It'll be done properly, all the spacers and other consumable parts replaced. Insurance companies don't like like doing it via a dealer as Smith and Smith will do glass only for $800

Well that was easy! Mr 2 went to bed early so I had some time after dinner to swap the new head unit in. First up is removing the old head unit, the centre vents (the worst bit of the exercise), and the lower console bracket, so that I could install the HVAC relocation bracket. Console bracket out. How does so much debris get into a sealed area!!! The car had had a Parrot bluetooth unit installed, which never worked properly for me, so that had to come out. I was a bit worried about how the wiring for it might have been done. The wiring harness had in fact been cut to put the Parrot unit in series. Fortunately it had been done well and I was able to just unplug the Parrot harness and plug the OE harness back together. I'll tidy it up further in the future, but for now I've wrapped it with fleece tape and packaged it up. I then swapped the switch strip and cigarette lighter across to the HVAC relocation bracket (photo taken before swapping over): The Xtrons unit comes with an ISO wiring harness and it makes it ridiculously easy to connect the head unit. Just plug it into the Xtrons and plug it into the car harness and that is literally it. Everything just works. The ISO harness comes with some other tails for other harnesses. I intend to remove these connectors I don't need at some point in the future to tidy things up further, but before I do that I'll just run the unit for a while and make sure I'm happy with it. Once I'd done a quick test to make sure functions were working I put everything back together, and voila! It works. As others have noted the dash trim doesn't sit quite right. This appears to be because the clip is built into the Xtrons (see below) and it seems to be slightly too high up - a quick go with a file will fix this I think - again will get back to this over the Christmas break. Initial impressions of the head unit? Ridiculously easy to install and get setup - you get a ton of wiring harnesses in the box and it seems intimidating. You only need the ISO one and it's entirely plug and play, no tapping to do, no extra wires to hook into, nothing. Just plug in the additional things you want (GPS, Wifi Antenna, etc. I didn't bother with the USB ports, 4G, etc. as I won't use them). The unit is FAST. No delays anywhere, the UI is fast and responsive. CarPlay seems good so far, I connected my phone via bluetooth and it just worked. The real test is going to come over the next few months as I see if it reliably works well and quickly, or if there are gremlins. Promising start anyway, will provide an update in a few weeks once I've used it for a while.

Went and had a look. Ideally needs a front cut as the chassis rails are bent. Either that or be pulled straight on a chassis machine. It's worse than it looks in the pics