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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/05/24 in Posts

  1. 3 points
  2. 2 points
    https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/325i/listing/4547906155 I'm sure we've all seen it...
  3. 2 points
    if it's not 'broken' this stuff is excellent for rubber reconditing and stopping squeaks etc https://www.amazon.com/nextzett-91480615-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG?th=1
  4. 2 points
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    Been busy with this thing. Installed a new pioneer bluetooth headunit, shadowlined the chrome window trims, installed new control arms, poly superpro control arm bushings, ultra racing front sway bar, sway bar links, miro 16x7.5 et15 front wheels and 16x9 et 15 rear wheels, brand new Hella fog lamp assemblies and some Nankang NS2 tyres. She is riding beautifully now. Front end is done, next will be 3.73 lsd diff, rear poly trailing arm bushings and subframe mounts, rear Ultra Racing sway bar and brand new axle shafts. Then onto the exhaust. A couple of coby resonators in place of the factory resonator box and some BTB headers.
  6. 1 point
    +1 on gummi pflege, you won't get a better product. iirc it was actually in the etk back in the late 90's.
  7. 1 point
    Big progress this weekend. First start up. Took today off so that I could have a 4 day weekend this week and get stuck into the compact. Pulled the N42 out. Cleaned up the engine bay a bit Few things fitted while the engine was out. CMP solid steering coupler, clutch hard line, smaller heater valve from the 330. Had to adapt the EVAP purge line from the larger OD pipe on the compact to the smaller OD pipe from the M54. Made a fitting that looks pretty factory and just clips into the original connector. Put in a third pedal. I'm super picky with wiring and hate when it's not tidy so a lot of time was spent making sure everything looked pretty original when wiring in the clutch switch. Power and ground from the brake pedal and the DME wire runs under the dash with the factory loom. I omitted the EWS wire and opted instead to just code out the need to press the clutch to start, it's not needed and tidier. When swapping from a N42 you have to wire in the AC compressor as well since it's part of the engine harness on the N42 and part of the chassis harness on M54 cars. Instead, since I'm deleting SAP which is in the same position as the AC compressor wiring, I just cut and changed the SAP connector to the correct one for the AC. The SAP wiring goes through a relay behind the glovebox so I bypassed it and moved the SAP pin at the DME to the chassis connector for the AC. No new wires needed, a much better solution than running a new harness all the way across the car IMO. My reverse switch was wiring in line with the factory harness while I had the engine out so the only additional wire running into the ECU box is the clutch switch wire, everything else utilizes the factory wiring. New clutch and flywheel on. Gearbox with all detents replaced, new guide tube, pivot pin etc. Started on the first crank. Snapchat-1404950484_1.mp4 Still lots to do. Waiting on some parts to finish rebuilding the rear end. Cooling, AC system, front end etc. Can't wait to drive it.
  8. 1 point
    People tell me to stop reading the Guardian, but every now and again.....comedy gold: Parisians vote in favour of tripling parking costs for SUVs | Paris | The Guardian
  9. 1 point
    Love me a ute. As long is it is on fire.
  10. 1 point
    One for the ute files 😂 Literally every car in the car park bar maybe 3...
  11. 1 point
    these all do this foam degrads get a car upholstery shop to redo them
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Hey Guys E34 540i E39 540i M5 740i 750i 840i 850i M60 M62 M70 M73 As most of you who have a manual V8 BMW, or looking to convert to manual, have found is that the clutches/flywheels in these vehicles are too small, expensive and don't last the distance. So what I've done is develop a flywheel and clutch solution that will: Be alot cheaper to replace and service hold more torque and last longer. The factory flywheel is a dual mass item, and runs a LUK self adjusting pressure plate. These have a factory clamp load of 2800lb, which isn't too bad, but it only has a 240mm clutch disc. With a fullface clutch disc bigger is better so you will see the photo below of the standard kit and see how much more room is left on the flywheel. Now most of the time the dual mass flywheels are stuffed and super expensive to replace, so I wanted to develop a kit that had a solid flywheel so that only the clutch kit needs to be replaced and the flywheel can be machined. If you have ever had to replace a BMW you will find they cost alot more than a normal clutch kit so I wanted to use components from another vehicle. From what I've found there is a couple of suppliers around the world offering upgrade clutches- One of them had a 850i pressure plate and clutch disc,- that's cool if you live in Germany and they are cheap, but here in NZ you would struggle to find one in stock anywhere, and it would be $1200 + just for the clutch. Also these upgrade flywheels are more often than not made of aluminum. The problem with aluminum is that it isn't a very good heat sink, so they get hot and stay hot and will cause the clutch to slip and get even hotter and eventually the flywheel bends causing endless clutch problems. They can also flex with high clamp pressure plates plus not to mention they are super light which can make a nice car a pain to drive. So with a bit of kiwi "keep it simple stupid" I've designed a flywheel that uses the non vanos flexplate with trigger wheel, and a flywheel that bolts on over the top. We have to use the non vanos one becuase the vanos one seems to not have a big enough step to locate the flywheel on around the crank. Then it accepts a Ford V8 10.5" pressure plate. Why? because these are a tried and tested unit that have been operating for around 4 decades and they are relatively cheap, especially in the US where I hope to start selling these kits to. They have around 2800lb clamp factory and have 10.5" clutch disc and alot more surface area. I've had some custom made clutch discs made with the correct BMW spline, the material is a high temp steel backed organic lining with a super strong 6 sprung hub with enclosed springs. Off the shelf HD pressure plates are 3500lb + The factory flywheel and clutch weigh around 24kgs. With the non vanos flex plate weighing around 4kg this setup is going to be around 3kgs lighter that the factory one. We are starting here so we can see what the the characteristics are like- going too light will change the way the car drives and make it a pig and I want to be able to offer a replacement for stock vehicles. So we are at a stage where we are going to fit it to one of Rays (Hell Bm) vehicles and we can assess what it all goes like- pedal feel (chatter if any) etc. So the hope is that we can offer an economical,reliable upgrade for V8 and V12 owners. Will keep you posted.
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