kerrynzl

Hey Thanks for that! Now I'm getting conflicting stories 1: The Red/White goes to switchable power [eg: off the key thru the fusebox] 2: The Red/White goes to constant power [eg: to battery via fusebox] reason being the stacker require some sort of memory Could you check this out for Me? [Hey, I owe you a Drink Someday]

I've got a South African BMW Stereo Head unit, Cable & CD Stacker that I swiped out of a E36 that I parted out. I'm in the process of fitting it to my E36 coupe [Don't laugh, cause my idea of a sound system is cutting the mufflers off] Anyway plugging in the head unit is straight forward [gets all NZ channels],so is plugging in the cable to the stacker & mounting it. [Now my question] There are 2 wires from the stacker Red/white-stripe & a brown wire [brown is Earth] so I assume the other is power Do I connect the power to a switchable source [eg; fuse-box after the key] or does this power source come from the head unit? How does the stacker switch on/off? Does it get a signal from the head unit down the cable or does it get it's power source from the head unit? Or should I thow the whole thing away [& start singing "Nana Mouskouri" songs in my madness]

I yell at cars on off-ramps for not using proper lines [causing my exit speed to drop] I always 'late apex' intersections & try to pass a few cars coming out I dont Tailgate, I 'Draft' I consider the 'redline'a conservative estimate I know the racing line of every turn within a 10 mile radius of home My last highway foray included brushing the curbs [as I apexed the off-ramp perfectly] I regularly test the limiter [on that straight thats too long for 2nd,but not worth going into 3rd for] My tyres life expectancy is quoted in 'weeks' ,not miles You get the idea!!

on a racecar 1cm of wedge means oversteer one-way and understeer the other [ask any good dirt-car guy] Hey if it wasn't there before the accident, it should be put right

The rings were expensive. I think they had to come from Australia and were around $350 plus GST. ACL make a wide variety of rings [so do Hastings] all you need isthe bore diameter & ring width and they'll find them Segedins Truck & Auto do ACL .... Pioneer Equipment do Hastings otherwise Johnsons Piston Rings in Penrose will cut you a set [cheap] While I'm here I'm curious about the F/L pre F/L pistons question[assuming they have the same bore size] did they change the rod length [& piston compression height] does this apply to the 2.0 M20 as well?

You shouldn't have to! Thats why you need a second opinion [try LTSA,they are an authority on roadworthiness. just make sure your car is legal] Remember 90% of people don't even notice a twist in a car [ they'll probably say is was always there] Stand your ground & don't argue with them [just in case you need the disputes tribunal] GOOD LUCK!

Hey Mate, my first answer was straight to the point: No Mechanical Damage, your driveline is engineered to handle numerous wheel lock-ups [eg: slamming on the brakes] over it's lifetime[tyre wear & pad wear being the exception] Your E30 must have a good handbrake to fight engine torque [unless it's idling at that brief moment,which is similar to engaging the clutch] because most braking loads [under weight transfer] go on the front wheels,the braking loads required to snap the rear wheels loose is minimal [30% to 40% was quoted] [try this on a bicycle] So apart from the idiot factor there's no damage at all [everything wears out eventually] If you want to do a 'J' turn, that's a different situation [especially in FWD's on the CV's] the best place to practice is in a paddock "bloody good fun though" just don't get caught doing it on the streets [unless she's hot,haha!]

YEAH I AGREE CONRAD, years ago I was doing a 'J' turn in reverse [in my girlfriends mini] I flicked the front 'round and managed to "wipe-out" a crate of Piss & a Bottle of Jim that my mates abandoned on the curb while they were trying to save their own asses [The Damage was Terrible, it was a sunday afternoon]

SORRY TO HEAR THAT! This technique was shown to me by my younger brother who is a panelbeater [he also showed me how to spot colour matching errors] I'VE NEVER BEEN ABLE TO LOOK AT A CAR IN THE SAME WAY SINCE [sad] before you go back to the panelshop, get a second opinion from an authority [eg AA] to back you up It saves your ass during disputes

:banghead:

You are right, I just counted! I used my brakes 8 times before,just going to the shops to get some milk. In my Heyday I probably done this many "Handbrakey's & J turns" in 1 year [Haha]

STRANGE ANSWER, The Handbrake is braking the very same Rear Wheels that the Brake pedal operates, So my answer is NO [to the handbrake maybe] Otherwise you couldn't Slam your brakes on,while driving along the road in drive

Cam lube? definately needed for start up [moreys can be used as an assembly pre-lube 'til you get oil pressure] Pay a Motor-machinist to parrallel hone the bore [if there's any lip in the bore,it'll break your rings] while you're at it, get a 3-angle valve seat job done [don't waste any effort on polishing the ports] Why are you decking the block 2mm? [are your slugs that far down?] If decking the block ,check the valve to piston clearance [use an old head gasket & bluetack] measure the bore & ring widths then ring STA [segedin Truck & Auto] they'll find a set for you [usually under $100,unless you want gapless rings] Why do you need 2 sets of rings? are you installing them with your Ball-joint hammer? [Leave them in the SUN for an hour then you can SPREAD them with your fingers, never try & wind/twist them on cause they'll break] Practice this with your old Rings First, It's easy. You're not building a Sleeper Engine for this new BMW racing class are you?

I did mine the cheap way! I bought a whole E36 328 manual with a blown head gasket,by the time I sold the leather,my auto,the auto diff, the rolling body,& various Misc bits it ended up costing buggar all.[you need the $$$ to buy the donor car]I still have a 2.8 M52 I am certainly glad I had 2 cars to swap parts between, it made things easier Hey mate! no questions are silly [assuming you know everything..............maybe!] The swap is easy,there was no fabrication needed. there are some minor wiring issues. You'll also need a set of TORX sockets I'd also like to thank some of the members of Bimmersport for their advice/help [i'm new to Beemers] And hopefully I can pass on some help myself [& humor]

Gotta E36 Manual, So next best thing,maybe a E36 Racecar! Daily driver? Any old ute [as long as it has a towbar]

Got an E36 Driveshaft from behind an M50 automatic that just crying out for a new owner, the car had only done 77,000k's before I hooked out the slushbox & "done the right thing" with a manual. It's in perfect condition,if you need one [it would also make a great letterbox stand] Open to a realistic offer

Siemens MS41 is used with EWS, so you need an EWS module & an ignition key with the chip inside to get it to run. you can get non-EWS programs from the USA to disable this

Also, just to add to the mix. When you get a flatty while driving, the rim has to be the first thing to hit the ground. So a car less than 100mm off the ground might not pass with standard rims on. I am under the understanding that heated and compressed springs (done by a pro) are all ok? Hey Guys ,I just started reading this thread. Has this Car been certed or not? this hasn't been answered on this Thread Yet! I've had several Motorsport cars certed [for road use] and they are under the 100mm rule of thumb, MANZ requires the vehicle to be towable with 4 punctures & no scraping My interpretation of Heating springs is: Springs can be re-set to a different height by a spring manufactuer [when I do this myself,I become the manufacturer]LTSA prefers manufacturers ,because most people DON'T KNOW what they are doing! Springs can slowly sag to a different height over a period of time/cycles [you can hurry this process up ,with heat. 400c max] I personally think re-setting springs "proffesionally" [if I pay myself $1.00] is a better option than aftermarket springs.[the spring frequency is a known factor for the chassis suspension geometry]I'm not talking about racing cars here From a Legal perpective, If your Beemer was illegal/unsafe when it was at Pitstop. they are require to remedy this [& charge you accordingly] If they "looked the other way" and you had an accident that could have been contributed to,by your modifications under our present law Pitstop could be held accountable even tho' they didn't perform these mods [f**ken Sucks Aye] Anyway your car looks great...If it isn't legal,it's worth going to the expense of making it legal

Or the other end off the price scale, "New Car $4500.00" [should be somewhere in between these prices]

You Mean "BOTOX YA BEEMER"

Hey 3pedals, I couldn't agree more! Apart from an electrical short [or accident damage] the only thing that can go wrong with these is the information they receive or a spike in the program [thats why I have a couple laying around,'cause our friendly BMW dealer can re-flash the computer for less than the cost of a second hand unit] My E36 had an idling & running rich problem When I unplugged the VANOS it went better [so I thought I should replace it] It turned out that some F**KWIT had been in there before [when they slipped the VANOS on, they advanced the cam 18degrees,when the VANOS advanced the cam a further 18 degrees,total 36degrees it rattled it's arse off] The computer was amazing by managing to keep the enginge running, I simply retimed the engine [Thanks to "Pelican Parts" on the web] an everything fixed themselves You have given BMRBOI sound advice, "GET A FULL DIAGNOSTIC DONE FIRST"

The best I've seen is "Dashboard Restorations" in Glenfield ,Auckland. Does a lot of RHD conversion dashes,Etc Has a vacuum molding machine,so they replace all the foam. He done my brothers 'stang,and it looks like a brand-new factory OEM dash

Is it VANOS or non-VANOS? does it have EWS? or OBDii? give us a clue pull the DME [ECU] out and give us the numbers we then might be able to help

I've just done a E36 Manual Conversion the rear mounts on both G/boxes are similar. What you need is a E36 Manual Rear Crossmember[they are already tilted over] I held the Backing plate up to both boxes [identical bolt pattern] You need a E36 Clutch pedal [you cut down the brake pedal] & Master cylinder, you can still use the auto pedal box [have a look ,the clutch pivot is still there] Use the M20 flywheel/clutch assembly it is better than the E36 dual mass crap You use the E36 centre console,you replace the auto shifter with a shift-lever gaiter [it just clicks in] Note: all the holes for clutch lines,floor shifter etc are already there [nothing is needed to be fabricated] using the Getrag there will be driveshaft & shifter issues though [it's only mechanical so it's easy to overcome]the Getrag has a 0.82 fifth so a diff swap isn't needed [a ZF has 1:1 fifth] a 4.10 diff with a getrag=3.37 diff with a ZF If you go thru with this conversion you will be very happy with the results [it'll wake up your E36] Cheers Kerry.......[syncrosmash rules]