kerrynzl

That must've been some good sh*t you were smoking, [it really enhances the creative mind] especially to end up with wild imagination like that! [you should apply to be a script writer on shortland street!]

Cam chains usually rattle when you build up the revs [with no load on the engine] This symptom sounds like a VANOS death rattle [what year E36?] if it is a vanos M50, try unplugging the solenoid to see if it goes away [the engine will be gutless at the top end]

Good One, I hope it all goes well! You're quite lucky if your first car is what you wanted [instead of some landcrab a relative is trying to unload.haha!]

Hey Emma! Borrow $100 from your mates as a deposit to secure the deal before the seller changes his mind [be prepared to lose it,if your parents don't agree] Once you secure the "Original" agreement, then talk your parents round [they are being stubborn, but usually the commitment of $$$ changes their minds] The problem here is 2 lots of egos going against each other [you are caught in the middle]

Hey Gary, the cheapest octane booster you can buy is the 98octane fuel [it's already premixed] Most octane boosters cost $10 a bottle , whereas 98 is usually 4 to 5 cents more than 91 You have to buy 200 litres of 98 to justify the costs of the booster [most boosters don't make anywhere near that amount] You can make your own booster: 82% gasoline,14% ethanol/methanol,2%Methylethylketone[MEK],& 1% acetone [these percentages are by Weight not Volume] You can also add up to 20% Toluene to your fuel [but it disolves all the rubber lines etc in you fuel system] Disclaimer: This is Dangerous sh*t, F**king with petrochemistry-do so at your own risk

Hey Emma it sounds like a great car dont lose it over $250 [if you really want it] Here's a negotiating tip: if you give him his price, try and get it on you terms [win/win trade-off] eg get him to hold the car for you [with a deposit] or stretch you the last $250 [payments or whatever] Remember a mint E30 is rarer than the money you'll be giving him. Don't ever regret paying a little extra for a better car [time heals] sh*t $3250 is cheaper than a paint job [on a free car] You are better to pay too-much,than too-little. It sounds like he doesn't want to sell it [emotional attachment] , but offered it to you anyway as a favor IF YOU REALLY WANT IT, go back and get it [everyone is flexible, not always in price] Remember this: you never regret the things you do, only the things you didn't do! GOOD LUCK & KEEP TRYING

Yep it was me,[going thru the welcome bay roundabout] I recognised your #plate. There are 3 red Z3's floating around Tga,but I stuck a bimmersport sticker at the top of the screen on Judy's car

Does anyone out there in Beemerland have a 'pair' of Plastic "B" pillar trims for the inside of an E36 Coupe? Cheers Everyone TXT me on 025 726071 [thats right,an 025 number]

So by the end of this week or next I could be posting pics of my new E30 Cheers for all of your help guys I better buy a box of Speights and send it around the country 2 u guys haha Better still: How about letting us all crash-out in your folks lounge, and help ourselves to their fridge during the "southern festival of speed"

They ran up a few 2-peice shoddy used car dealers today to ask for opinions about E30's + daughters. Some quotes: "Isn't worth than more than $1000" "We wouldn't touch it with a barge pole" "Parts are getting hard to source nowadays" As if i value their opinion- when they really don't have a leg to stand on. They reccommend $3000 mid 90's Nissans and Toyotas, funny how they are "UNDER $10K Japanese car dealers" Makes sense.. and another quote, "We'll see you right" Hey Emma, Being an ex car-dealer [the only honest one,mind you! Haha!] I'm very much aware of what they have pulled on your parents. Firstly their business is SELLING cars, they probably didn't have an E30 to sell [so they'll rubbish them] It's easy to put a low value on an opinion [$1000 on a car they haven't seen] Dealers need to move volume,that why most sell jappa's [E30's are now an enthusiasts car] What they are doing is "loading the seeds of doubt" into your parents minds, their motive is not THE CONCERN OVER YOUR WELLBEING, they are trying to sway your parents [however subtle] into buying something they have. They reccommend $3k on a Jappa ,then you spend triple that personalizing it afterwards, to be satisfied with it.[that's $$$ down the drain] Personally, If I had a son/daughter that wanted an 'oddball' car, but was enthusiastic enough to be passionate about it, I'd back them all the way [the word oddball is used here as an example] Hey if it wasn't for my love of cars & racing,I would have ended up in jail years ago! Don't get angry with your parents, they are trying to do the best for you [unfortunately they have gotten advice from people who are only interested in themselves] Show your parents this, if you want to

I hope you are referring to the "Jessica Simpson"version. Perfect woman for a shallow man! you know: Blonde, Long Legs, & Stupid Haha!

Ever thought about joinin' dem good ol' boys at hazzard county? Haha! There's some weird sh*t that goes on south of the Bombays! [they actually have 4x4's with mud on them]

Have a great Time at the mount mate,I'll be cruizin aruond in a red Z3 or a red E36 coupe! pull over & we'll have a xmas /new year Beer together

Het Josh . This only works on US & euro spec E36's . 320 E36's had siemens dme's not bosch which didn't feature dignostics

Why are people so obsessed with the number 100k ? Its the same in England once over 100k (miles that is) people just run away. The same here but its 100k kms instead ? I just dont get it, these engines are capable of astronomical milages yet people cringe at a paultry 100k kms. Its barely run in ! The 100mile, then later the 100km mark is an itch cycle that car dealers & marketing people have brainwashed the public with, to increase turnover any car dealer would rather [personally] buy a 100k car to a 99k car [same general condition, but one is substantially cheaper] selling is a different situation though Enthusiasts usually don't care about K's [if they are low, it's a bonus]

Hey Josh! nothing wrong with KYB's [yours are new] If your car is floaty like a boat then the shocks are history. But if it's bouncy [hard] I suspect your car is bottoming out on the rubbers. chuck out those springs, & lift it 25mm while you are at it and all the problems will disappear. Springs support the car, shocks only dampen oscillations [hard shocks & soft springs cause the wheels to skip over bumps similar to a motocross bike] the spring stiffness should be calculated for the speed of the vehicle [except for the risk of bottoming out or loads carried] Shocks should be valved to the springs [to dampen oscillations] The faster you go the stiffer the springs [drive over a speed hump at +100kph & you'll understand this] Try to get some 'M' spec springs,and reset them to a decent ride height [not too low] Springs have the same rating their whole life [after 1000's of cycles the slowly settle to a new height] resetting them restores them to the height you need [don't be scared of second hand springs] Years ago, I tested several brands of shocks on a shock dyno. most performed close to each other. after extensive use the cheaper brands started to loose performance [because heat build-up caused leakage past the pistons,due to expansion] In other words "don't use Gabriels in a Rally-Car" If you are going to constantly drive way above our legal limits,you'll need stiffer springs [& a lawyer]

"Thats sensible" Owning one is stupid! you need to buy two, so you can cannibalise one for parts

Hey Gary It looks good! Don't wash it! [As I quoted on another thread] spend more than a $$thousand on a car and it should wash itself haha! Seriously though! top job in the engineering dept Have a good new year [don't get too hammered]

Yeah I'm waiting for someone with bags to drop their car onto one of the speed humps [would cause an awful traction problem, might have to smoke those tyres getting it off] 0-50 then 50-5 [Good law abiding citizens,at least they aint speeding] With all that talent about,combined with speed humps,can cause severe neck problems [no wonder A&E at TGA hospital is overworked] You Can't Outlaw Fun

You are going about this the right way. DON'T get rid off the parts car until the swap is finished. If you are careful,everything [eg clutch hard lines] can be swapped over. I did exactly the same with an E36 conversion [there is always something that you've forgotten to remove, that you'll need later] If you have a poor memory or limited mechanical skills, use a digital camera on everything. If you are using your car as a daily driver [to work/skool] leave the flywheel alone [it'll need re-balancing if you hack into it] LUK clutches are fine! in my conversion I swapped everything [the only extra bit I purchased was the pilot bearing [in the back of the crank] for $6 ,because removing it from the donor car usually destroys it

Firstly, you need to get rid of all the rubbing [not some of it] Nothing wrong with your choice in shocks [shocks don't support the car, the springs do] Go to 225/35 tyre, being slightly narrower [10mm at the sidewall] and 5% lower profile will increase roadholding [plus they look better,which is a motive in itself] it should help with clearances. Get a friendly tyre shop to fit some tyres from their rubbish pile out the back [just to check clearances]Paying them for fitting is cheaper than buying tyres that are no-good As the car gets lower,the springs need to be stiffer to prevent bottoming out. you can also buy plastic spring spacers to adjust ride height if you need to. Personally [from experience] if the car is raised [from super low]by up to 20mm, nobody can tell the difference [except with a tape measure]

One thing that can't be changed is the angle of the Stub axle to the Strut, so any change in the position of the top plate will affect the static angles of the wheel [caster/camber] when BMW moved the tops out [on the M3] they would've needed to move the bottoms out also to maintain correct camber [hence offset bushes] maybe this was to increase Track Width which helps a car corner faster [i'll need to measure an M3 to confirm this] 9-1/2 degrees caster is about the same as an NZV8 touring car, which is ok with power steering Too much static negative isn't too good for tyre wear [camber thrust] or straight line stability [tracking over bumps etc] thats why German manufacturers use a lot of caster on road cars Camber thrust is like 2 cones rolling towards each other [thats why toe-out is used on race-cars with lots of negative] If you increase the roll-stiffness [sway-bars] ,less static negative is required [for maximum cornering 1/2 degree negative at the tyre footprint is all that is needed at maximum bodyroll/cornerng speed]