Silver Fox

Will let the white SA car go for $250. The manual red one for $1000.

No, won't fit a M40, different head and bolt pattern.

I've decided it's time to get rid of some bits, I need the space. Would rather it all went in one hit, but make me an offer, 1 x 320 block, no head, but has intake and exhaust manifolds, and some rocker gear. 1 x 320 complete motor, short block, includes all top as well, was pulled from running car for the manual box. 1 x Sth African 320, white, rusty and dereged, but has goodies like electric sunroof, good cond, cruise control, and obc. Has had some bits removed, like diff. Has good cream interior, no tears. Petrol tanks have also gone. On bottles. Was a driver, auto. 1 x 320 red, 4 door, dereged, but wouldn't take a lot to rereg. Manual, reasonable cond, goes, on proper lowered springs. 1 x manual 240 box, pre f/l bare box only and rear x member. 240.0.0130.90 Any interest out there, pm me with offers? Will list it all on Tm this week.

I'm with Bravo, sounds like the auto's packing it in. Could try changing filter and fluids, but I'd start looking for a second hand one if I was you.

Careful with thinners, can damage the clear coat. Would try cut and polish myself?

Bet that hurts?

Agreed Tell me please, how can you increase revs from 6400 to 7200, and yet decrease speed in a manual in first from 70 to 55kmph? That's about a 12% increase in revs, but a 20% decrease in speed? Guess that logic explains the rest of the thread

Should be framed and hung in a museum.

Facelift reverse lights are horizontal, pre f/l are vertical.

Might as well just cut your dick off.

Yeah, I had a 740i, 1996, off them, I had no problems, and from my experience would say they're OK. Cars are ex Japan, I've since sold it, at a small profit, and not due to any faults.

Would suggest you go new with any hoses, it's not worth the risk to try second hand. Try Ray, or Gavin at Euro-Italian, or dealer.

I, for one, will be very sorry to see you go Mark .If you're sure it's what you want, all the best with the sale. It would have to be the buy of the century for what you're getting, if only it was a 318 Good luck mate. ps, test drives?

Yeah, about 35, but now over 80 on build register counting the Sth Island cars. No major bumps, but a few bruises. At least all 3 of my cars came home untouched

James, what they're saying is that by taking the one hanger bolt out at the back of the diff, a 2 min job, you get the subframe to drop that little bit lower to take the strain off the driveshafts. I've never bothered to do it, and haven't hurt mine yet.

yep, on both counts. Easier to fit new ones if they are lowering springs, but, just get a bar in there and lever the old ones out.

James, drop the bottom shock bolt out and the whole lot should drop far enough to lever old ones out and new ones in, no compressors needed. Once new ones are in, jack arm back up to refit shock bolt. Done half a dozen or more like this, never a problem.

Wishful Thinking

Happy Birthday Jock, big 40 eh, ah I remember those days

What mileage has it done, has it been well serviced? You need to take the rocker cover off and see what the cam's like, flat across the lobes or worn? Then try the additive, think it's PRO-MA MBL8, works well but follow the instructions, will clean the lifters, won't fix anything else tho, get from repco etc.

You can't set the tappets in an M40 as they're hydraulic as you say. If you have a problem with them, then try an additive, or live with it. If that doesn't work then they may need replacing, probably about $5 or 6 hundred I would guess. The top end on the M40 is bad for wear and going clacky, could be cam, rockers or lifters, it's the expensive end of the motor. Good thing is it can all be done without removing the head or the motor, not too hard a job, so long as you're careful.

Would fit, but different rating, be too soft I think.

Handbrake has 2 cables, one for each side. Take the cover off from around the handbrake lever inside your car and you'll see where both cables finish at the base of the handbrake. See if the left side one is tensioned properly, or if its loose, tighten if necessary and check handbrake again. If this doesn't help, or the cable seems tight it'll be a problem at the rear wheel. Take the rear wheel off, Remove the calipers, and and use a 5mm allen key to remove the rear brake disk, opening up the handbrake mechanism. Make sure your handbrake's off when you go to remove the disk, or it won't move. May be siezed, or worn, or come apart, I've seen all the above happen. When you get to this stage you should be able to see the problem. Hope this helps.

Hi james, would think it's p/n,11211709681, a 12x32x10 bearing, that's what mine have all taken.

Quit moaning, you don't need brakes at Pukekohe. Just load your 75kg into the boot.