Silver Fox

If it has been done to the correct torques then you should have no problems. I've built a dozen engines in the last couple of years, and have not had a problem with bolts working lose, and have not locktited any internal bolts to date. None of the bolts I've ever removed from the bottom end have ever been done either, you can tell when a bolt has had Locktite applied.

Not bad, where's the rust, and how much is there?

So, how much do you want for it, or am I supposed to guess?

I'll give you $5 for it, when can I pick it up please?

In our backyards?

Yeah right, imported in 95 with 92 kms on clock at first reg in NZ, probably less than most factory imports. Doesn't get any closer as far as I can see. I would be calling it NZ new as well.

I've come across them a couple of times, they sell the same vehicles thruout NZ thru different branches, it's the same company.

Genuine M6 has the M88

I heard they used to leave them outside under a hedge to harden up for 2 or 3 years before they used them.

Take her out for dinner a bit more often, fixes it every time.

Just make sure you get all the bits for the manual rack, including the piece that connects to the steering shaft, it's longer than an auto one. Easy conversion, no other bits to change.

You should have a positive power feed and the alternator feed on the big 13mm one, the power feed from the relay on the 10mm one, and the 8mm one is the accessory delete wire, not needed I believe, it stops the radio lights etc when you turn the key to start.

Cheers Andy, hope to have it running in 4 to 5 weeks, will add some pics tomorrow. I think getting rid of the vanos and fitting the M50 B25 intake will give it more torque and top end performance, which is what we are after for the track. It seems most of the changes BMW are making to their new engines are for economy and to please the green brigade, and that by going back to earlier technology you can free these up and get better tuning and performance.

OK, update time. Have motor at home, and bought a M50B20 from Brent, and an M50B25 manifold. Have also picked up a Hall signal converter to change the Hall signal to a VR signal for the crank position sensor, and a thermostat adaptor from Zionsville Autosport , so we can use the Ali front housing from the M50. So far, have stripped the M54 back to bare block with head attached, and removed the vanos. I've also got the sump, rocker cover, front cam plate, from the M50, and will use the intake from the M50B25. Will be getting an adaptor from Turner motorsport for the water sensor as the M54 only has 1 and you need 2 for the M50. At this stage we intend to lock the cams in their most advanced position, it is a race car after all, but will eventually go for M3 cams at some stage. We will be using the M50 non vanos loom, and all sensors have a home, so the computer should, in theory, work. We have a 6 puk scintered bronze clutch plate and are using a lightened M20 flywheel and starter, in front of a 6 speed M3 box. Anyone know of any reason this won't work, I can't think of any yet?

I'll be back.

Yes, same fitment as E24

Just mean he's hard to understand sometimes, that's all.

I've bought stuff from Mitch, and never had any problems, but you need to listen to him carefully, doesn't always mean what he says, if you know what I mean.

Those racing dynamic wheels sure look like schnitzers to me as well?

The flywheel is standard BMW issue, came out of a manual 323, an early one. I've just found another the same, from an 84 E28 520i 5 speed with a ZF box, they are lighter than the normal ones, and don't have that extra chunk of metal on the engine side they have, that's why you have so much clearance there. Going to use the new one behind the M54B30.

Look neat in my Taxi?

Hard to tell much from that Max, is it slipping at all? I had one which I stuffed up by letting the gearbox twist as I fitted it, put a twist in the clutch plate and made some funny noises. I'd suggest you slip it off and check everything's alright inside, may be the only way to be sure?

Standard front washer/spacer in the front of the diff is a crush washer, crushes on installation and sets the gap according to the applied torque. If it crushes further on wear, then you get the play you've found. A race setup usually uses a fixed shim, which is a solid washer and won't crush. You need someone to do this properly, if in Auckland I'd reccommend Kayne Barrie, you could give him a call, or talk to Paul Olson at interpart, he'll know who can do in Wellington. Cost can be up to $7 to 800, depending on what you get done, may be a lot less if you only get the front done?

You're right, it does bolt up, but, it's unlikely to last too long with the torque from an M30? I would have thought the M20 flywheel and clutch will be fine tho, don't forget the m20 starter as well. We're using an M20 flywheel behind the M54B30, with a 6 puck clutch and high clamp pressure plate.

ps, there's one on trademe at the moment, but it probably has the dual mass flywheel as it's from an E34, getrag 260/6.