Silver Fox

Either, there's a small hole in the bottom of the case which you put a small flathead screwdriver up to move a ring around on the mirror, it then just falls out and you reverse to replace. if you push the top of the mirror in you can see up behind from below and see the white ring with 3 notches in it, you have to rotate this ring around about 6 to 10 mm from memory. Easy once you see what you have to do.

2 minute job to change by itself.

M3 Evo, 505 cars built, Feb to May 87.

Gavin Bellars, 09 442 4451 021 483 562

Get the car to Gavin Bellars at Hi Velocity Ltd in Glenfield, he'll get all the performance you want with a custom chip to match the car.

You chicken Grant.

Pull the locking strip out carefully, then peel the outside rubber back all around the screen to break the seal and built up rubbish under it. Get your hand inside top corner and gently push the screen out at the same time as reaching out and working the rubber back from the edge. It should come fairly easily, although I break the odd one sometimes, usually from a chip on the edge, or not having enough patience. I try to work right along the top first and then pulling the screen up to free the bottom. Fitting the new one is the reverse. Slip the bottom in first and then the sides and work your way around, I use the back of a rounded spoon handle to ease the rubber over the screen. A little soapy water helps. The fun bit is getting the locking strip back in. If you know someone with the right tool it's pretty straight forward, otherwise its the spoon again and about an hours slow work. One of the most important things is to not damage or chip the edge anywhere or you'll break it, and try not to stress it in any one place, or it may go. Sometimes they just break for the sake of it I think.

Just had the same problem in my race car and Hotwire got me to replace the spark plugs. I'd tried everything as you have and Grant said to me that if you have fuel, spark, air, compression and timing then it should go. I had all the above and it still wouldn't go. Even took the plugs out and they were wet, so dried them and left it overnight, and it still wouldn't go. It wasn't until I tried another set of plugs that it went, and it went first time at that, so try another set of plugs.

http://www.carfax.co.nz/ just enter the plate.

Check that anyway, may not be switch, may be power feed somewhere. You need to check that switched power at pin 86 on the relays.

What he's saying Milan, is get your multimeter and pull the K3 and K4 relays, and see which terminal is 86. then put the positive end of the multi in the 86 terminal and earth the other side. With the key off you should have nothing, with the key on you should have 12 volts. Is this right Grant?

according to realoem it's a 4 speed, carfax the plate and the vin number is the genuine bmw one, comes up on realoem as E3 Lim 3.0Si M30 ECE 19731200 R M. Been wofed regularly since 96, but odometer hasn't changed?

Hey Milan, you're not getting the power from the ignition side. When you have your ignition key off you get park lights only, it's not til you turn your key that the main lights work, so seems that that switch isn't working, if you get what I mean. Grant may understand what I'm getting at? That was the problem with the E28.

Drivers side water is normally from the battery tray, holes in the back, or from the boot. If you park with the back higher than the front you can get water coming in through the boot, and running into the back footwell and then the front. Pull your back seat up and look for signs of water under it, if so, that's your problem. Good luck. ps, heater leaks are normally on the passengers side, that's where all the connections are.

You get this Jed? Congrats if it was you, looks very nice.

Give Ernst a ring Ollie, he's the gearbox guru.

I found that with a hunk of pipe in the crank to stop it turning, and a 3/4 inch socketset with a 1 and a 1/2 metre 2inch steel pipe works well.

7mm Andy.

I have a number of pristine M40 cams for sale, no visible wear, $150 ono each, pm if interested, first in gets the first pick. Pm me with any offers, all considered.

I'm after $14,000 for it with the new cam and chip fitted. It has a fully rebuilt engine, new rings bearings etc and has had most of the bushes changed for nolathane. Runs very well.

I'm guessing it's the E12 4 cyl M10 engine with twin Stromberg 175CDET carburettors, in which case it should take most M10 engine parts, including gearbox? I doubt if much else will fit from the later cars, although it is the pre E28 model, so who knows.

Bet I know what it is, eh?

I got a 6mm steel bracket made up, you need to get it bent to fit the mounting points as they're not on the same plane, the top is back from the bottom, 30mm if I remember rightly. I used the E28 mounts as my template to get the shape and bolt hole position for the new part, and the E34 mounts as template for the engine holes, if that makes sense? You only need to do the drivers side one, there are 3 holes on the other side you can use.

isn't the throttle body position all wrong for a M20?

The replica you have, is it based on the M20 or M30 block? The pic above is a M30 turbo from Schnitzer.