*Glenn*

Yes that could do it to.. some of the after market disc pads dont fit in the callipers properly, or missing / broken disc pad retaining clips

Yesterday we had a BS members car in for a repair that required removing the lower dash panel. Everything you see here is how it all fell out on dropping down the panel. The owner had paid for a professional alarm installation by a professional ?? This is a mess and I'd be peeved if this is how my car was done. We didnt check any of the wiring behind the tape work to see if it was soldered or just twisted together. The owner was unaware till we showed him because its all hidden, and he's not impressed. These are some of the problems we have to deal with when were working on peoples cars. Maybe some of our sparky "Gurus" would like to comment ?? BTW: The 2 cable ties on the floor are from us replacing the ignition key reader coil not the alarm wiring

Just a small update. Finished off inside the car, all the hydraulics are installed and I'm now held up for god only knows, waiting for my flywheel. Checked again this morning and it hasnt arrived in NZ. Its somewhere between Montana and Auckland BTW: I've also updated part # and prices on page 2 of this thread

The first thing that I would check would be sway bar links. However, these types of problems usually require professional help if you have limited mechanical abilities, and the vehicle really needs to go on a hoist to check it properly. Next time your in Auckland, call in and I'll have a look...ring first though so I can have a hoist free to check it

Have a great day Luke From Glenn & the Team

I cant do it for $180. With filter, pan gasket, labour and oil (G3 full synthetic).....doing it properly would cost more. And yes I can get the alignment done too $65

It might help look after the engine... but really no noticeable performance gains

Hope you had a great holliday.... Pictures a must

BM Workshop in Grey Lynn has them . Ask for Mel or Nick Ph.3761250

The F/L E30 I wrecked a while ago had the ABS control unit in the boot on the L/H side by the aerial. I still have it here as well

No its United Parcel Post Service in the USA. and it comes here to Parcel Post.. I'm told it can take between 5 days & 4 weeks It left last Monday.. I have a tracking number...its still in the States somewhere

Buggar....just found out this morning that my flywheel is coming via UPPS instead of UPS God knows how long thats going to be

Here's one http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=21341

Thanks

Thats all you'll see next track day

Can someone tell me the dimensions of a Euro Plate please

This is what it looks like debadged

Couldn't resist posting a picture of me new knob in place even though the shift gator hasnt arrived from Germany yet... its different from a sedan on the Ti

Some of the guys on here occasionaly do a bit of paddock racing...or you could do a track day out at Puke to really see how it goes and handles

If you want it...yes....free or I can sell you a Z3 1.9 short shifter for $110 incl Gst

Now, thats an original "hook up" line ? (No offence intended)

We could do it next week. The leak may look excessive, however it may not be too bad yet. Just check the level.

We can do it for you. Price would depend on what transmission is fitted and the correct oil for that trans. You would need to do the filter as well and make sure the wiring harness loom fitting and change shaft seals are not leaking.

I wasnt having a dig at you... It may not be the chain tensioner. Quite offen the drive belt tensioner and idler bearings will rattle. Thats why I said diagnose it properly first. If you have access to a stethescope...use it to pin point where the noise is coming from. If the waterpump has been replaced check the plastic pulley. We had one that was making a noise similar to chain noise and it was a cracked water pump drive pulley. Take the drive belts off and start it cold and see if the noise is still there. If it is, take the rocker cover off and check to see if the chain is loose when the engine is cold. If you look down the timing chain cover you will see the slipper which is tensioned by the tensioner (drivers side of the engine) if you can manually push it back and the chain is loose, it will be the tensioner. The tensioner should not be able to be pushed back manually. Replace the tensioner and away you go.

I'd diagnose it properly first. You cant just listen at the noise and assume its something from what you have read.