*Glenn*

It needs to be scanned first.

The finger tip grommet under where the number plate lights are, is probably jamming the micro switch. Check the grommet. Take the number plate off and flick the assembly out with a small screw driver and refit the grommet correctly. Refit and it should work. Before you refit it check the micro switch is working... it should make the opening solenoid click

Can I ask what the next cars going to be Steve ?? BTW..glad to see you changed your profile...didnt quite know if I was confused...or you were

It would be prudent to say...get it checked out by a BMW dealer there Cooling system Electronics Gearbox Suspension Oil leaks Like all BMW's they suffer from neglect & abuse Good luck with the hunt

Edit: My foot hurts my mouth

Switching is via the DME's 6 drivers. The coils have three wires power, earth and trigger wire. The DME switching will only handle the resistance that the OEM coils have. Any coil used must be of the same resistance

If all the fan speeds are working replace the pollen filter. If you dont have all the fan speeds it will also have a resistor fault...if it is the resistor, I would still fit a new pollen filter as well

No, what I was saying was maybe thats the reason for it...I'm not sure. When I get time I'm going to try and find out

I'd rather have coil over, than deal with leads. Maybe their reasoning was to go higher voltage. And if its not broken..why fix it, unless you have a sound reason for doing it, 2nd hand coils arent expensive and you wouldnt have to retune just because you changed a coil once its set up. I think you would have more issues long term using externally mounted coil packs with leads. Thats why most manufacturers have gone to coil over....no more leads

I looked at doing this as well, but after researching it, decided I'd rather have the torque the M52B28 produces especially with an auto. Some of the 328 coupes (my donor car) came out with manual select instead of ice mode. Which allows you to drive it in the power band, especially on the twisties... I have that version trans at the moment. I'd first go for the exhaust before doing anything else and maybe a CAI or at least remove the restrictor in the air box and use a K&N

Air con guys should be able to help. Alot of the bigger companies do their own alloy welding and make up pipes

I don't mind ...Ive got broad shoulders... I can also give and take... 540's are still great cars.. I like John Deers too & Kenworths

Welcome Deano.... I'm gunna get some sh*t here...but anyway... I had a great day today 540"s are great Autobaun cars.. However...on our very twisty roads behave like beached whales unless a whole lot of money is thrown at them.. still great cars, I have alot of respect for them... but be carefull... theres many a guy on here that will try and convince you they are as good as compacts and E30's... they lie

Why? (foot in mouth) Yes they are sequential ..six drivers for coils & injectors...god knows what I was thinking about What are you trying to achieve ??

Our jails are full....put them in chains and give them shovels

+1......90% of any job done properly........is diagnosing the actual fault first... then fixing the actual problem

Sorry, I dont quote, I give very accurate estimates on experience, once diagnosed & stripped, then I will give you a written quote, you can ring me on Tuesday, however I'm fully booked till the 30th. You can drop it off if you want earlier. We are very very busy

Probably too much Not trying to be negative here...but I don't repair anything I haven't diagnosed myself. As a business and having a reputation to uphold and give consumers a guarantee. I need to diagnose the problem, give you a price, if accepted, then you have my guarantee. If you want me to randomly fit parts, because you or others on here have said they are faulty, I really suggest you try and get them to do it or do it yourself, and........ I know this may sound quite negative, however, so much misinformation and misleading information is being given out by people in here who actually dont understand or know what they are talking about. If a member asks about a problem with his E46... why the hell answer " my E30 had a problem like that...this is what I did " For gods sake E30's dont give the same problems that E46 give. If you actually dont know how to fix something properly...ie: E46 = E46... move on to a thread you actually can help someone with the right info. If I dont know... I will say so....and I will always try to lead you in the right direction with people than can help you with your problem. End of rant Glenn BTW: I'm still smiling, just getting a bit sick of trying to pick up the pieces because people dont listen, dont give the right info, try doing it themelves... f**king it up and then expecting me to try and help them with a $100 budget....It just doesnt work

Sorry Tony thats wrong. Taking the four bolts off the pulley wont get the 32mm nut off. The four bolts hold the pulley only onto the waterpump flange, which also forms the threaded part for the viscous hub to screw onto. You could probably undo the 4 water pump bolts, but then you would have to take out the radiator as well, to get the viscous hub & water pump out together. Real hard way to go about it though

Monday...dont have your addy on my laptop

Brilliant Red in ingish

I think I have them...will need to check.. in Brillrot though

Use only premium 95 octane fuel

I've also PM,d Greg with some diagnostic suggestions..talk to him and then either of you give me a call I'm available 7 days a week on 021921377 .... reasonable hours only...no calls after 7.00pm please

The upgrade kit is expensive & unecessary. ring Nick. We do this all the time. Its not an engineering upgrade..just costs you more $$$ OOOps are you talking chain tensioner upgrade or belt tensioner upgrade ???