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Hi Guys I have a few of the workshop manuals i have downloaded, and just wundering if anyone has come accross the Service manual or workshop manual for the M30 engines i got one for my evo engine that has all valve sizes, etc etc, i mean im pretty much can pull my engine all apart etc but mishing through hayes books etc for torque settings etc is horable as most of you already know and a engine workshop or service manual would be awsome any help in finding one would be great

also dyno at speedtech seaview if you really want to re-map the ecu

No i havnt played round with them i never managed to get the collant sensor or the tacho wired up to the dash, had to re wire it - techo - blaster coil aftermarket coolant gauge goes to coolant sensor i will try the sensor thing cause what you said fully sounds about what it is doing ill have a look at it next chance i get to the car if it works, im going to be a happy man

I will look at what you advised this w.e if you have facebook there are some pics on there ill try upload some, i basically wired it just below the e32 connector for the fuses, onto my e28 one

Hi Brent Details of the wiring info below, would take it to bmw but they didnt even want to know last time and wiring doesnt look that great lolz, given fact it would be a 1hr ethier way to closet bmw shop might see if i can find someone in levin that knows about wiring but thanks for the info. M30 b35 Motor Conversion(Electrics) Ok, even though this is from the E30 ETM, it should be the same. Let me know if any of the wire colors are not found or different, and I will try to dig up my E28 ETM. Please note that I am partially color blind so I have great difficulty telling the difference between Green and Brown. So some wires that might be Green I will call Brown and vise versa. The connectors that need to be taken into account are C101 and C103. C101 is the 17 pin connector that plugs into the fuse box. C103 is the connector that plugs into the motor wiring harness under the dash on the passenger side. There are anywhere from 5-3 wires in C103. The wires on the side of the body are colored, BK(to instrument cluster(tach speed drive)), BR(Ground), WH/BK(to instrument cluster(fuel economy gauge drive)), GN/RD(not used(goes to one side of the OBC relay)), GN/YL(not used(goes to the other side of the OBC relay)). Now first lets concentrate on this plug. On the E28, BK goes to BK/BL, BR goes to BR, and WH/BK goes to WH. On an E30, the 2 wires that are not used in the E28 are used, which I believe are also used on the E34. These 2 wires are what cuts the ignition control when the CODE function of the OBC is used. If you are wanting to wire these in, they should connect to the one GN/RD wire. Basically, you cut the GN/RD wire and run one side down one of the unused wires and back to the other side of the GN/RD wire. In the E28, though the OBC relay should control the no start function by cutting power to the main relay, so that is why your car runs now, so I would just leave the 2 wires that aren't connected, unconnected. Now onto the 17 pin plug on the side of the fuse box. C101. I believe that all of the connections for C101 and C103 in the E28 are contained in the E34 C101, so you will have to do some splicing up near the ECU to put in the other end of the E28 C103. The E28 plug has listed numbers I am going to refer to these number and the wire color that should come out of it on the E28 motor and what it does. Pin 1, BU goes to alternator. Goes to alternator "charge indicator" light in instrument cluster. Pin 2, BU/VI or BU/RD static oil level sender unit. Goes to static oil level light in the active check control unit. Pin 4, BR/WH Coolant temp sensor driver wire. Runs to coolant temp gauge in instrument cluster. Pin 6, GN/YL goes to the O2 sensor heater relay. Gets power from fuse 6 and in the fuse box is colored GN/WH. Pin 7, GN/VI gets power from Pin 87 of Fuel Pump Relay and goes to fuse 1 in the fuse box. Pin 8, BK/YL Starter trigger wire comes from the ignition key. Pin 9, Not used Pin 10, WH/BK To Diagnostic connector Pin 6. Said to be "not used". Pin 12, GN Powers the coil from fuse 1 of fuse box Pin 13, BU/WH Dynamic oil level sender unit. Goes to oil level light in active check control unit. Pin 14, BR/GN Oil Pressure switch. Runs to oil pressure light in instrument cluster. Pin 15, WH/BU Service indicator to Diagnostic connector. Pin 16, GN Is the same as the GN wire in Pin 12 and is actually spliced together with the wire from Pin 12 at S127 Pin 17, GN/VI To Fuel pump relay through splice S128 The E34 uses a round style connector to plug into the fuse box. This has 20 pins so I will list what the wires in each of those do. Pin 1, BU goes to the alternator. Comes from the Instrument Cluster "charge indicator" light. BU in the fuse box. Pin 2, GN/YL comes from oil lever sensor. It is BU/BK in the fuse box and runs to the static oil level active check control unit, which is the same as the oil level light. Pin 4, BR/VI comes from the coolant temp sender unit. It is BR/VI in the fuse box and goes to the Instrument cluster temp gauge. Pin 5, BR/GN Oil pressure switch. Runs to instrument cluster oil pressure light. Pin 6, GN/WH goes to the O2 sensor heater relay. Gets power from fuse 9 and in the fuse box is colored GN/YL. Pin 7, GN comes from the ignition switch and goes to the Start Input, in the motronic unit and it also goes to Pin 15 on the coil. In the fuse box it is colored GN. Pin 8, WH/BK comes from the motronic unit "present fuel rate output". Is YL/WH in fuse box and runs to Fuel Economy Gauge in the bottom of the tach. Pin 9, BK goes to the ECU Engine speed output. This is BK in the fuse box. On the E28 this actually should be the connected in C103. Pin 10, BU comes from the oil level sensor. It is VI/GN in the fuse box and goes to the active check control unit as the dynamic oil level light. Pin 11, WH/GN comes from Pin 7 of the diagnostic connector. Is WH/BU in the fuse box and goes to the Service Indicator Processor. Pin 12, GY comes from the ECU and is the trigger for the "Check Engine" light control. In the fuse box it is BR/BK. This wire is not used on the E28, since there is no check engine light. Pin 13, GN/VI comes from Pin 87 of fuel pump relay. Is VI/RD in fuse box and runs to Fuse 11. Pin 14, BK/WH comes from motronic unit "Speed Signal Input". Is BU/YL in fuse box and goes to the Speed Input of the Instrument Cluster. Pin 15, BK/GN comes from Pin 30h on the coil. In the fuse box it is BK/GN and runs to the unloader relays. Pin 16, WH/BK comes from Pin 6 of diagnostic connector and is used in the SRS system. In the fuse box it is WH/BK and is said to be not used. Pin 18, BK/YL is the starter trigger and comes from in the car. It is also BK/YL in the fuse box. It also runs to Pin 11 of the diagnostic connector. Pin 20, RD/YL comes from Pin 87 of the main relay. It is RD/YL and goes to power the ABS Hydraulic Unit. I believe that the rest of the plugs aren't used. I believe that Pin 14 is also not needed to have the car run properly. I have yet to find out what propose it serves so I would say it doesn't need to be connected. And any of the E34 pins that I do not have connecting to a pin on the E28 harness means that it does not need to be connected, or there is no place for it to be connected. Now here is a list of which wires need to go where. C101 E34 to E28 Pin 1 Pin 1 Pin 2 Pin 2 Pin 4 Pin 4 Pin 6 Pin 6 Pin 13 Pin 7 Pin 18 Pin 8 Pin 16 Pin 10 Pin 7 Pin 12 Pin 10 Pin 13 Pin 5 Pin 14 Pin 11 Pin 15 Pin 7 Pin 16 Pin 13 Pin 17 C103 Pin 9 Pin 1 BK Pin 8 Pin 3 WH/BK I have spent now 7 hours on this, so I really hope it helps. Written by Rob Anderson '01

Hi ALL im just wundering if its worth getting a e32 dig tool or tool so i can plug my pc into my ecu or just flag and goto link easier said than done given the fact i cant really drive the car

Hi All Thanks to Marty i got a new brain for my car which didnt start first pop, but in the morning i managed to get it started and rang fine (like normal) for 40 mins until the car got heated up close to 100 degresss well was prob round 60-80 at the time it stopped, let it cool down drove quickly then stalled again can get car to start with cold start off but then just stops, if i put cold start on as it starts will go for a 30secs and die's again any ideas now - does anyone have a fault tool that gives errors codes as its strange that its doing it again even with new ecu, given it sounded better is there a sensor that stops the car from running when it gets to hot. cheers otherwise it can surviive to ive got the evo done or get a Link ECU

Hi Guys my clutch is starting to leak and figure two things, the heat from my exhaust is killing the seals, and my reservoir has no cap anyone have one down or near welly i can grab to use cheers

Hi All I have still had no luck with my car it starts runs fine when i wants and now and then i wont start again once its past of certian point of being on even tho the other week it was working fine so figure its new ECU testing time, all i need is it running, - also would white smoke when i starts and oil water comming out exhast mean my head is leaking - compression is fine and havnt noticed water drop My ECU part number is 12141748258 - its for a m30b35 either 535i or 735 DME 1.3 ecu, cause i figure itl cost the same to get it tested lolz cheers

thanks guys that project zero website helps great, just need to fix the cylinder which my mate got quoted 2.5k but thats without even opening the engine up. if its just a oil ring etc wont cost much, and ive got time to play lolz, ill prob get the engine for a couple of hundred so who cares right. ill def keep you all upto date with whats going to happen

Hi All Does anyone have a set of these i fully didnt know any engine ran that low comression and actually ran fine, would they be ok for putting in my turbo i know the compression would be fine but there would be alot of limitations wat they could handle etc

Yea i think it would be fun to try see if you can do it the forum seems like its possible, you could spend lots of cash and try convert it and leave it standard and mod around it, i think a road legal car with this engine might be a big push but if i can get something up and running could have some fun lolz

Hi Guys I might be getting hold of a evo4 engine which needs some work, so would be another project for the long haul but has anyone heard of someone doing this or can anyone suggest a car to put it in lolz

Thats the one i have never had any issues with Powerhaus, never done wrong and very good to talk with Cheers but its all about learning your car 3 years later, 2 engines and im still confused with my engine

Hi All Just having a quick question im think my e28 with the e32 m30b35 engine maybe missing the o2 sensor, were is this normally located?? and would this cause the sorta problems eg. not starting properlly running rough etc Cheers

Hay Bro What sort of ecu are you running in your car, does it run hot or anything like that, as ive got the same problem and its intermittant itl do it sometimes and others not, ive being asking arounding but no luck for a answer i have a funny feeling the ecu may have a relief switch cause i could still turn over confirmed, spark fuel, but its not burning it correctly and wont start im hopefully going to get in contact with a guy this week about it, but dont really know why they do it

Hay ive had no luck doing that even with diffrent instrament clusters, forgive the spelling i have a funny feeling that it will come down to how the ecu is wired given the fact it says it works on all models

ive being looking at quite a few at the moment, ive had a look at 'VEM' that damo suggested, looked also at 'Link g4 Storm' also look at the greedy and hks piggy back systems. looked at autotronic as well big descisions but in the year given the price, I am sawing towards the Link G4 Storm, easy interface dignostics etc as i want to be able to tune my own car to my needs, i know it sounds bad but im looking for style for the e28 beast, and with the hopeful dreams of what sort of power i want to put out, i want a completly adjustable system that i can see in real time, and being a IT tech myself i always have computers handy for tunning and kinda like the GUI feel on the link verus other systems. Im willing to listen to input and if people know where to source parts cheap etc, let me know as any help will be greatly appreciated Cheers

I think you are right about the going wideband thing, Basically at the moment im still trying to get the engine running correctly, and have never had a way to monitor my air/fuel mixture to make sure the car was running right, and could maybe use it for the alfa aswell but im willing to take suggestions for you reakon i should leave it and once i get my ecu, get a wideband air/fuel ratio meter. any help would be appreciated

HI All Just wanted to know if anyone has a aftermarket Fuel pressure regulator that they want to sell that i can put on my m30 engine for turbo conversion, other than that leather seats for e28 body, estimate please... also air/fuel ratio guage.. many other things but gota start somewhere, will be putting aftermarket ecu to most of the job. Cheers

Hay Bro i have the wiring diagrams and can prop sus pics this w.e as ive done mine and wiring diagrams were easy to follow, what car is it going in, the one in blue is the blaster coil, brent is right and the one coloured in red could be starter if not already put on but cant fully remember , - PM if you want the wiring diagrams

Hay guys Sorry bout the consistant posting about my car, after more testing on spark plug leads etc etc, i was playing and took the oil filler cap off the valve cover and the car, stopped moaning and started running properly this was big woops for me but now, is it worth testing and playing with the air flow meter or giving up and upgrading to Mass Air Flow meter for the on going turbo/engine rebuild that will be going on lolz

Posted on Trademe Vin:wbabe62070jc00264 BMW 318 1993

Does anyone know anyone in welly that can test my ECU and is trust worthy enough, before i put the car on lock down and leave it be to i have the actually money to re-furbish the car

Real OEM site link http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?mo...hg=64&fg=50 Please advise what price we would be looking at, and if its available as one of my mums friend Cheers