hotwire

Is your car a Jap origin one? If so it uses infra red signal rather than RF which is used in NZ new cars. Range with infra red is crap to say the least & nothing can be done to improve. However -Make sure the battery voltage in the remote is good & aim at the receiver in the car

Think I am correct in saying that the 2.0/2.5 litre F/L cars (88 on) motronic system is the 1.3 version. That being the case - yes the crank angle sensor is on the front pulley which is the system you require. Just need to get the complete engine wiring loom/ECU as well to marry to your car. Motronic 1.1 I think did have the pick-up in the bell housing as you say. The earlier system in the pre F/L cars is L jetronic not K. K jet is mechanical injection as was in the Audi Quattro coupe we used to own. L jet is electronic injection only & still with conventional distributor ign set-up used to own

As Graeme (Bravo) said. Both those alarms he mentioned are very good with good after sales back-up. There are others as good out there but in ANY case - the alarm is only as good as the install. I fit them & have seen some horror stories of other installs where I like any crook could disable it in seconds flat. A standards approved system properly installed is tricky to overide -at least buys time or sends the crook to the next car

Cant say I remember seeing any car with an alloy exhaust manifold - only cast or steel - would be to do with the heat generated I would say

Yes welcome For me ... As it is - maybe clear lights but not black grill Yep -also like the wheels on it

Save guessing & get it hooked up to a scanner, will give the answer in a minuite & eliminate false diagnosing & wasted money

Not likely ICV valve will cause problem above idle. Save guessing & get it plugged up to a scanner to check for fault codes. Any decent auto sparky or mechanic should have one

Early E30's didnt have an internal pump - only the external high pressure one. Facelifts have both You shouldn't need to change the outside high pressure unit as they pump at around 40psi (controlled) at about 2 litres of fuel per minute - most just bypassing back to the tank. More than enough for nealy all engine demands.

Will be interested to hear the result -seems strange that they weren't aware of it? To be shaking the sunvisor makes it not insignificant. I would be a little wary as to me this is way out of character for an E39 - I have also driven several E38's over time & although a little quieter (with double glazing/ lower outer door seals etc) the E39 is not far behind in comfort

Haven't got a blue set but I think you will find that the trims themselves aren't leather , I have dismantled 2 cars with leather & seen others & none have had leather trims although they do match the leather in colour.

Yep 70k, if genuine, is bugger all! Not uncommon to have scouring on the disc, but if you have no vibration though the steering or noise when braking then unlikely to be brakes causing the problem - mine now has a very slight shimmer through the wheel when braking -can only be felt on smooth road surface, once pads are stuffed I will replace the discs. They will probably not be worth machining. Sounding more like drivetrain but that seems strange for the milage you mention. Were the owners aware of it already or when it started??

Jochens right with his points - have had stones get stuck in my discs too - causes a squealing / squeaking noise which varies with speed, wont be the shudder though. I have had to remove the wheel before to remove the stone - they dont always come out going backwards - probably due to the design of the backing plate. Shudder -From what you describe sounds realitively serious - could be a disc - they are very soft & prone to wear (my fronts are near stuffed at a genuine 55k milage) -normally only notice when braking though - could be a faulty or unbalanced tyre -maybe a wheel weight has dislodged - maybe as you say - a bearing - maybe driveshaft/ hanger bearing fault - maybe an engine mount - I think they are fluid filled What milage has the vehicle done?? Mine too is a very smooth rider -even on 18's Although I havent driven a touring I have travelled in one & they are as good as the sedan for smoothness/ quietness What milage has the vehicle done?

Probably blown the output IC's in the unit, need a radio techi to fix it -maybe Jochen?

only some - those that bag BMW's!

Not me, but certainly meticulous build detail

Nope.... & hope I dont have to!!

I usually remove/refit either box with engine in situ but with car on hoist. Lower the trans /gearbox mount, raise front of engine slightly & then looong wobly extentions to access top mounting bolts

Yes will fit but 2.5 normally has a Getrag 260 (heavier duty box) Getrag 240 - Dogleg?? Yea???

Welcome Paul. Is the 2 door to become another E30 race car?

You can swap fronts of each engine (cam gear, motronic set-up, water pump & dissy (if fitted) with blanking plug/ oil pump drive & manifolds. Use existing (in car) manifolds/ engine wiring. Basicly using bare doner engine & swapping all later perrifials to it. - I have done this conversion before

a**hole trick, but who's the so called mechanic? Water in petrol - hardly relates to a head gasket? Must admit though that contaminated fuel is not the first suspicion for a non starting car (unless it is known) But a blown head gasket aint that hard to diagnose...

Yes DUMB! BUT, I must confess to having noticed this myself before (although not regularly). Probably no two flasher units are the exactly the same in flash rate, varying bulb wattages will alter flasher load & in turn flash rate. Identical cars may if switched in time but cant say I have noticed this senario

What model 318?

That'd be telling!!

Brent, Check passenger side under dash where heater core tap/ plumbing is & look for signs of leakage - leaking core/tap usually ends up that side. Also check frost plugs - particually rear ones each side - had to do one at work yesterday -L/H rear behind starter - a bitch of a job in situ. This car had similar symtom to yours & was hard to spot. Have had to replace these on others too. Could still also be a seeping head gasket - not leaking into oil but into combustion. Last 2 senarios probably unlikely though due to the fact you can smell coolant. There is a lot of foam under the carpet to absorb any fluid so may not necessarily feel wet on carpet surface. Pressure test of cooling system is best to pinpoint problem