hotwire

And, to my knowledge same measurement still applies, over 2m wide needs clearance lights facing forwards

Ouch!! I can sympathise, been there, done that, & more than once too

Is it ex Jap? If so - may well be a toll transmitter. Post a pic

True, but bend rather than shatter. I hit a section of broken seal on the side of a road in the E39. 18" style 65 BBS. Flat spotted both L/H wheels & rooted the rear tyre. Took them in for repair, front mildly flat spotted, the rear was completely drunk (warped). The guy wasn't holding his breath for being able to straighten it (nor was I). To his, & my surprise, it straightened perfectly. His take was that it was quality alloy that was very malleable.

Ron, you are continually pushing your barrow on you liking manuals only (pretty much). And reading between lines in your posts i get the impression that you sometimes question people that would choose auto, almost to the point of belittling their ability to "drive" e.g. one post where you suggest it being an "old mans uber cruiser", & in the next saying "perfect for pedal mashers - wide of the mark for drivers" Pretty judgmental of people who choose to drive autos i reacon. Also, I don't recall anywhere that anyone has suggested an argument that an auto is "superior" to a manual for road use. Again, it's horses for courses, for a lot of people that drive in this country - an auto is probably the best for them (& us) , while others may choose auto over manual, but doesn't follow that they are less of a driver. My E39 - i like it as an auto but if I had an M5 then, apart from there being no choice, no way would i want that in auto. Years ago I had an Audi Coupe Quattro - in manual, no way I would have wanted that car in auto. Similarly, I used to have a Nissan Terrano for a work ute, I remember sifting through sh*t loads to find a manual. I hate the earlier Jap diesel auto's.

My bad - never seen that one & didn't realise it was such a basic version

Ha, exactly as I was was thinking but didn't bother to post. I love manuals too, but also have no issue with autos & would rather them in certain cars - horses for courses. No offence Ron but you do polarise yourself on this & as above - tend to pedal your opinions as to what others should aspire to.

Adam, you need to get it scanned to confirm the fault otherwise you are just guessing at causes. Get hold of Ray @ HellBM - he is on the the shore.

Yes it will likely have been the remote batteries causing the issue. That said, remotes have been known to drop out of sinc with the modules at times, but this is normally a constant until they are re associated. Another issue can be interference frequency from other sources in the vicinity. Have seen this a few times in recent history. Shows up when the system auto arms/immobilises & then wont turn off via remote. Switches - bonnet/boot/doors will have no bearing on alarm turning on or off.

You seem to be confusing yourself somewhat. Has you car got a factory alarm or not? I doubt it has had one. Your explanation is also a little confusing. Firstly - why did you not get the professional installer to recheck it if his install didn't operate correctly? I gather you are using separate Mongoose remote/s. The battery in it/those would be the first thing to check. The module simply needs 12v constant, ign & earth to operate. Obviously doesn't need the ign supply to turn it on/off. Don't concern yourself with fuse designations - no relevance to your situation. EWS system will have no influence on the aftermarket alarm either. Fuse rating - you are concerned with amperage rating - not the max voltage

^^^ Yes but at least BMW don't use recycled in their wiring too.

Do beg to differ, I've seen mid 2000's Benz's (several) with disindegrated wiring, & not just the the engine loom but right through the car. Ex Singapore/Japan worst.This when the cars were 5 yrs old too

Those wheels

Anything, Really, I await with anticipation....

I run a tee for oil on the E30 & there has been no issue. Do agree that there is potential for on a harsh engine - solid mounts etc, but on a street car, vibration is very minimal. Mine is mounted so that there is minimal leverage on it though. VDO do a tee

Yes Greg, load monitoring can be turned off with applicable SW via the ibus

Wrong! Pre & facelift starters are the same as far as operation. The F/L is a reduction type & therefore a smaller housing. Either will interchange with each other. There is a difference between M20 & M10/M40 starters though. As far as the electrics you mention, of the two small terminals (either push on or spade) - one is the solenoid activator, the starter wont operate if this not or wrongly connected. The second is an earth circuit for the unloader relay - this is the relay that allows accessories to operate. While cranking the circuit is nullified. If this wire is left off - these electrics wont work - unless the doors are open as you mention.

Hella do one - so any Auto Sparky

They can potentially cost sh*t loads on repairs, have seen a few that have. I would say the potential costs are higher than many BMW's - the E38 a much simpler vehicle, & probably more reliable. This said, I know one in particular that was very reliable for it's owner - ex Singapore as well

The E65 was not one of BMW's best cars, infact far from it. Yes a well built, well specced, very nice drive car BUT VERY complex with plenty to go wrong, & often does. The problem is that these are now nearly 15 yr old flagship cars that are now selling for not much. Doesn't change the fact that they are still very complex cars & have so much to potentally go wrong - & this is reflected in their repair costs. Often purchased by someone that can just afford to purchase the car, then to find that it is going to cost as much again to fix it. It is NOT an equivalent Holden or Falcon!

Can of worms Matt. I wouldn't go there. Much as I don't like the Jap IR locking.

Yep, 09/2001 was the changeover. You need a replacement tuner. Plug & Play. PM me for more info

Jap models are infra red, Euro spec are RF. The remote locking has nothing to do with immobiizing the car. Yes, as above - they need re initialising to the car when they have been dismantled.

^^^^^^ Yep. Two versions in E30's - early & late type. Both two terminal - power in, power out. Any brake light switch has only one power out to the lights

^^^^ Neither brake light will work if the switch is faulty. You sure you don't mean one tail?