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Hi Tim, More than likely the ABS unit at fault - causing a rogue fault code - as mine & many others Ive seen have done, although on mine it bought the lights on & dropped the speedo but showed no fault codes. I manually tested to confirm the module at fault. Closest repairer to you that I know of is Anything Electronic in Nelson. Otherwise Powerstop Engineering in Tauranga If unable to be repaired, as was mine, get hold of me & I will sort you out for a replacement.

Nup - the E12

Nup...yuk!

Duh, remember now the wiring issues you had when you converted to Ljet. Could be an HT lead, though if a major breakdown, the coil - dizzy lead the only likely one. Have you checked fuel flow? Can still have pressure but crap flow rate. Usually only the cap & rotor in the dizzy. You "checked" the ign module - tested or visually?? Is the ECU still mounted in the factory position, if so - checked for water ingress? Been there on mine when screen was leaking

Jon, Does it miss over 4k under no load too - eg stationary? Have you swapped the ECU? BTW, I thought you were running Motronic in your car?

For the E39 - yes you will - the vehicle lights are powered by the LCM & is rated to the standard fitment bulbs only

Local Electrician recommends he cant do it & needs looking at by agent What sort of sparky is that - find another that knows what they are doing. Are you sure it is not fitted with an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser?

Have you tried BMW?

Pre F/L E39 lamps use HB3 & 4 bulbs in low & high beam. Fogs, from memory are H7

Great to hear - now enjoy....

^^^^ Absolutely - thats what they are there for. Even jump starting at the battery is not an issue. as long as connecting correctly - you will not have a problem. Try jump starting from another car/battery, if it starts - take it (the car) to a sparky & get the battery/car checked. If it doesn't start - obviously you will have to get someone out to it. The battery could be charged & buggered, or just flat. Both will give the same symtom. Going by the indicator on the charger will not necessarily give an accurate state of the battery - I would hate to think over the years how many times I have had to explain that to customers.

No doubt he means - is the "head" unit a CD or tape? They come as either. As above - a pic of it would tell the story

25mm cable will cover it in this application. I assume you are running the later reduction drive M20 starter & battery mounted in the boot? Starter current would initially peak @ 300 -350 ish & drop from there during crank. Make sure you put a good chassis earth at the battery & another engine - chassis up front.

Gotta get the car "going" before you need to worry about stopping it Jon

^^^ or if a Jap car - it's the infrared receiver for remote locking - as alluded to above

My race car is just third party, fire/ theft. They wont cover it on the track though - funny that...

Or, fit Bluetooth & Nav to it Harv...

WTF What a waste & pointless too

Nice pics & nice cars, me jeleous - thanks for posting Darryl Ulli finished his car yet?

To my knowledge rust converter should be applied to the rust for it to activate rather than applying to clean metal - there is nothing to convert

^^^^ Nup, needs one like this kept original

Check the current draw of the fan motor. Burnt/partially motor. Get a sparky to check

And... blocked filter in the pump causing sh*t flow - another common problem

Current draw of the fan motor