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hotwire

Race Series Competitors
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Everything posted by hotwire

  1. hotwire

    E30 parts

    Hellbm.com 0212435526 09 4268269 ...
  2. Hi Tim, More than likely the ABS unit at fault - causing a rogue fault code - as mine & many others Ive seen have done, although on mine it bought the lights on & dropped the speedo but showed no fault codes. I manually tested to confirm the module at fault. Closest repairer to you that I know of is Anything Electronic in Nelson. Otherwise Powerstop Engineering in Tauranga If unable to be repaired, as was mine, get hold of me & I will sort you out for a replacement.
  3. Duh, remember now the wiring issues you had when you converted to Ljet. Could be an HT lead, though if a major breakdown, the coil - dizzy lead the only likely one. Have you checked fuel flow? Can still have pressure but crap flow rate. Usually only the cap & rotor in the dizzy. You "checked" the ign module - tested or visually?? Is the ECU still mounted in the factory position, if so - checked for water ingress? Been there on mine when screen was leaking
  4. Jon, Does it miss over 4k under no load too - eg stationary? Have you swapped the ECU? BTW, I thought you were running Motronic in your car?
  5. For the E39 - yes you will - the vehicle lights are powered by the LCM & is rated to the standard fitment bulbs only
  6. Local Electrician recommends he cant do it & needs looking at by agent What sort of sparky is that - find another that knows what they are doing. Are you sure it is not fitted with an aftermarket alarm/immobiliser?
  7. Pre F/L E39 lamps use HB3 & 4 bulbs in low & high beam. Fogs, from memory are H7
  8. ^^^^ Absolutely - thats what they are there for. Even jump starting at the battery is not an issue. as long as connecting correctly - you will not have a problem. Try jump starting from another car/battery, if it starts - take it (the car) to a sparky & get the battery/car checked. If it doesn't start - obviously you will have to get someone out to it. The battery could be charged & buggered, or just flat. Both will give the same symtom. Going by the indicator on the charger will not necessarily give an accurate state of the battery - I would hate to think over the years how many times I have had to explain that to customers.
  9. No doubt he means - is the "head" unit a CD or tape? They come as either. As above - a pic of it would tell the story
  10. 25mm cable will cover it in this application. I assume you are running the later reduction drive M20 starter & battery mounted in the boot? Starter current would initially peak @ 300 -350 ish & drop from there during crank. Make sure you put a good chassis earth at the battery & another engine - chassis up front.
  11. Gotta get the car "going" before you need to worry about stopping it Jon
  12. ^^^ or if a Jap car - it's the infrared receiver for remote locking - as alluded to above
  13. My race car is just third party, fire/ theft. They wont cover it on the track though - funny that...
  14. WTF What a waste & pointless too
  15. Nice pics & nice cars, me jeleous - thanks for posting Darryl Ulli finished his car yet?
  16. To my knowledge rust converter should be applied to the rust for it to activate rather than applying to clean metal - there is nothing to convert
  17. hotwire

    E21 323i @ Hellbm

    ^^^^ Nup, needs one like this kept original
  18. Check the current draw of the fan motor. Burnt/partially motor. Get a sparky to check
  19. And... blocked filter in the pump causing sh*t flow - another common problem
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