hotwire

No front spoiler yet Kerry? Nice looking car though

Yep, that E12 is Darryl Monk's car (rxsumo on here), is one of the last built in SA in 1984 - known as a series 3. E12 body shell with E28 interior - a model peculier to SA. The German E12 (series 2) finished in 1981 when the E28 came out. It, along with mine, & a couple of others owned by another person, were 4 cars that a German guy came out & visited/documented each one to list on his website E12.de. To my knowledge Darryl still owns it, or at least he did the last time I caught up with him - 12 months or so ago. From memory on discussions with Darryl, the guy with the other two had one as a driver & one POS in the paddock. It may be worth contacting Darryl to see if he has a lead on this.

Good luck, but they are a very rare car here now.

Might be a little harsh/noisy driving down the road though

2 Fuses for indicators - no - why do you ask? Can't recall switch wiring offhand but - there needs to be a supply into the indicator switch. IE Fuse- flasher - hazard switch - indicator switch H/B flash is a different circuit to H/B - you need to confirm if power is coming out on high - the fault could be one of several things.

Power up stalk - which circuit? Indicator circuit fuse? H/B only on flash - do the headlights work off switch at all?

As above. I have no specific experience with this engine but in general, the tensioner will need to be released to it's max. Also, the alt pulley will have a lip to go over. Usually the idler pullies don't. Make the last pulley an idler pully to avoid having to go over the lip

There is a short in that burnt circuit - wherever the burnt track leads to. I cant recall the cluster internals offhand. A short will always start from the problem & lead back to it's source - in this case the red/green - obviously fuse 21.

Yes Rich, brown is earth - connect to body

Yes will be a DIN 66 for your car spec. 88 better though

Yep, as above - put the correct battery in the car. If it is a monitor equipped then it should be a DIN 88/92 - depending on brand

Nup, separate circuits/ sensors. ABS sensors are on each wheel. Brake pad wear sensors are only on L/F & R/R & bring up the brake lining W/lamp.

RealOEM for the part numbers. Local sources - Dealer, Euro Marketing, maybe Gavin @ Euro Italian OEM piston suppliers to BMW - Mahle, Borgo or Kolben Schmit

The circuit is a closed loop through two sensors - L/H front & R/H rear A break in the circuit will bring the light on. $100 for a sensor, havent checked recently but I am sure they are nowhere near that. If a broken wire - then simple to fix

Nup, empty light control is in drivers side sender. A separate circuit to gauge circuit.

Pre or Facelift? Facelift run two senders - one each side. Check all connections/earths

If it is a stock original car, firstly get the rear wheel alignment checked. I would say though it will be the tyres you have fitted - with too soft sidewall construction. I had exactly the same with ours, albeit on 18's when shod with Toyo Proxi's. They were fine on the front but terrible for cutting out on the rears on inside shoulder - as you describe. Slow learner as I wore two pair on the rear the same way. Changed tyre brand & no further issues.

^^^^ Time for another Touring Martyn huh:-

^^^ Yup, Have seen plenty of Benz's through work with severe wiring insulation degredation, not just models above & also well into the 2000's. This not just in engine bay but headlight/tail light wiring also. Some scary sights & potential cans of worms. Have seen one with engine wiring catch on fire - burning back into the vehicle writing it off. The problem much worse on ex Singapore cars having been in the humid climate - even after only 5 yrs there. Opel also have problems with wiring breakdown in the engine loom I would never own an Asian imported Benz! Have never seen the same issue with import BMW's, my understanding that because of Euro recycle requirements - Benz use recycled plastics in their wiring, BMW don't. BMW however - probably in everything that breaks - cup holders, seat squab panels & probably all the plastic engine components that fail...

Any other circuits on that fuse? With the short constantly there it shouldn't be too hard to locate the fault. Probably best for a sparky to check it though - rather than pulling things apart at random. You could easlily confirm if the short was under the seat without taking it out.

^^^^^^^^ YUP! Edit. And as it happens - we have a couple of cars that could easily fit safely in the 12 month WOF but don't - the E39 that is a 99 car & well maintained & the E12 similary maintained & does less than 2k a year.

^^^^ If the A/C belt runs behind the others - then yes

Haven't come across one with worn pins yet, although if they become dry & rusty they could well wear. Yes there are packer shims that slot behind the door mounting bolts. Number of shims will vary - to allow correct door alignment. That said, if the pins are worn & the hinges sag - this will need to be rectified first

Are the pins themselves worn/sloppy? Door adjustment/alignment is done by shims

^^^^ Just what I was thinking!