hotwire

So.... was one of the five possibilities. Great to hear its going. Not much time to run it in though before the weekend

Best then remove the plugs & dry them, recheck. If it has compression, timing, spark, air & fuel... it will go

May have but not necessarily evaporated. Best pull them out & dry them. Has it been fired up? If not - did you crank it with plugs in & spark disconnected to build up oil pressure? If so - it will have dumped fuel in - unless fuel was disabled too

Jack, If they look wet - it is probably flooded. Why can't they determine what is wrong?

Plugs wet - it's flooded! Can't I see it sitting in a workshop?

I have given an answer to this many times on here. - search maybe:- I take it mirrors & fan don't go either? Unloader relay is not seeing an earth via the starter motor - should have a small black wire connected to the solenoid. Comes out of C101 plug (engine loom) as a black/green wire from memory.

Have you phoned him?

Which one - external, in tank low pressure or in tank high pressure?

Can't remember exactly but doesn't take overly long but is somewhat involved. From memory you will need character references & your history will be checked. Obviously pass the exam & have proof of safe storage for firearms. Oh... and pay some money too

Looking great. I really admire the effort you are putting into it

Sounds like a faulty dip switch assy. Just replace it

Can't help now but good luck with your search. I took one off my E12 when I converted it to L-jet injection a few years ago but subsequently sold the carb. At the time I had tried to find a good condition unit (not warped) but had no joy. If he is not looking to keep absolutely original, I would suggest converting to L-jet as a good option - a much more efficient running engine

Yep, sorry meant that - near the top

Have you checked as to where it is leaking from? Sender/pump is on top drivers side - probably most likely place

^^^^ Inclined to agree. Don't quote me but I would be highly sceptical of making a + return upon selling here when the time came (even a 1M, which incidentally I agree would be the best option). Unless you got it for an absolute steal with purchase price over there

Not true in this case, the camera in mine is PAL (The first batch I got were PAL by mistake of the supplier) it is exactly the same quality & colour of the NTSC units I now have - both are CCD option though which give a far superior picture

Unique.... thats rather an understatement Jack

Use 87, 87a is normally closed contact

Fuel pump connections?

Gotta say - that looks substantially better than the first version

From what you describe I can't see that you would have done anything with the struts to cause this. It should be fairly obvious as to what is sticking & causing the problem. I suggest if you are not able to confirm the cause then get a proffesional to look over it. You mention lubing slides, pads, pistons with proper brake grease - did you take the pistons out? If so - did you lubricate these with rubber grease? This is all you should have used there. If you haven't actually removed the piston to check - it could be partially siezed

Has been discussed many times on here Look at the "sticky" on E39 info Not sure offhand on what you have circled but doesn't look right

Access to reverse & acc inputs are side by side in the loom in the boot. The camera can be powered continuously (ign switched of course) & is better this way so as to avoid any delay in power up when selecting reverse

Chain

As above - get it professionally checked, an auto sparky can do. As stated, could one of a few things. There is no point in guessing.