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Yep shadow chrome is the go. I have the same 18 wheels as Josh posted a pic of on the E39. I have seen the standard version on other cars & to me they don't look right - compared to shadow chrome variant

The light obviously playing tricks as both pics suggest different colours To me the first pic looks more Marrakesh Brown Metallic whereas the second looks more Sepang Bronze Metallic. Either way - I quite like the colour

Cant recall exactly but I would say they will be 36 ish (ish because they can vary between manufacturer)Take a cover off & check I have 36mm LED's if you need. PM me if you want

Take the trim off & recheck for water coming in via there to confirm As for the actual sealer Jochen was referring to - yes from the dealer - as he refered to - its the proper product for the application

Jochen - i thought the screen colour option was lost for Day/Night option. A while ago I briefly played with making a Night Mode disc. It worked but night background was not complete - as it should have been. Was going to have another play but have not yet got around to it.

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....c=36253&hl=

I stand corrected. Must confess - I hadn't tried playing with it myself. Assumption aye

It must surely be a hydralic problem - low fluid, air in system, faulty master or slave cylinder - Have you checked the fluid level - Have you checked for leaks? - Have you checked the travel of the slave cylinder while pedal is being depressed? - Possible faulty hose - soft & expanding under pressure:- If slave travel is ok - will be a mechanical fault - shift lever, pressure plate etc (I would say this scenario unlikely though) If travel is not ok, make sure system is properly bled If it is properly bled then clamp the hose off at top end & check pedal travel - you should have none, if you have - master cylinder is faulty. Eliminate the hose by clamping at the lower end & rechecking travel. The hose is another unlikely scenario but possible.

I beg to differ on ex Jap. NOT ALL Jap cars are neglected. I have said on here plenty of times - mine was a fully documented service history 24.5km, nearly 5 yr old car. Got all four keys too. Have also come across plenty of other ex Jap Beemers that have been well serviced cars. That said - there is plenty of crap that has come in too. It is a case of buyer beware. Ex Sing E39's - not always good option. Some are not complete spec cars - no heating system for one. Ex Sing E65's dont appear to suffer the same spec issues

Is the clutch releasing properly? Pedal feel? Slave cyl travel? Try bleeding

Mine so far has been immune to all those E39 quirks - I stress SO FAR. Only repair thing I have done, apart from front rotors at 60k ish, pads all round & bloody tyres, is the front sway bar links - drivers side had worn ball joint. As far as changing tyre profile - I don't agree with that one I have seen a few E39's that have been professionally lowered (I mean slightly) with no problems had

The six is arguably a better balanced car than the eight & the 530i regarded as the best six - not that mine is a 30 They do go very well & unless you want the V8 for what a V8 is - then the six is quite adequate. I even find our 2.5 quite ok. Oil changes - some Japs do actually do that - has it a documented history? Mine did - 2 oil changes in its 24k over 4.5yrs history in Japan Now at just over the 100k mark - engine still clean as a whistle

Looks a nice car - I love the black E39's. From my perspective - don't worry on the Jap origin - it has the bells & whistles (nav etc)- leather too which is not overly common on M/sport cars - JUST GET IT CHECKED by Glenn or similar before purchase. Yep - see the buers guide

At least you got a positive result I guess

Shite they must be - that was quick Did you have him on about it? I saw a car yesterday with them on - can't say they are really me

As above - most E39 lights have L - R hand drive switching ability. Can't speak for all brands though or which do & which don't. Also, as per 3pedals, in these lamps the lens is clear & the light projection is completely controlled within the lamp/reflector setup. Also as above - US normally lose park lights with head lights on, can't say that I know for sure of US BMW's doing this though. I would be following this up to get a result with the seller, although time delay may be an issue now

There will be a white wire somewhere, would have been in original plug. This is a 12v out when radio is on & feeds the aerial amplifier in the C pillar. Check for voltage present at each end.

Yea, was aware of how Greg was doing his with his BM54 car. The system I did a few yrs back (a Jap to BM24) - they supplied an interface loom incorporating an amplifier with the 54 pin socket & plug each end as they told me that without DSP - the car needed this amp. Apparently, as I understand, in a BM54 equipped vehicle - this amp is not required.

Yep, that's what I did with the conversion I did a few years back. Compared both systems, picked out the wiring I needed for ULF & relocated into appropriate positions in the plug. Cut the Jap coding tag off & fitted the plug into the ULF module. I think what Greg did was probably simpler though. One thing I haven't bothered to confirm though, the system I changed was in a BM24 equipped car - a car I had just changed radio & nav in. Greg's is a BM54 car - I am not sure if the phone prep wiring is the same in both.

With respect to them - Most of BMW NZ know bugger all on these things. Most still don't believe that Jap nav can be properly converted, or often even retrofitted to a NZ car. I have proven them wrong on both counts - even quoted them the part numbers then bought the retrofit wiring looms off them for a plug/play retrofit Firstly Dynavin - yes with having existing monitor - you need an adapter loom to run from front (monitor) to rear (radio tuner in the boot) where the Dynavin links to the car. They are primarily aimed at replacing in dash radio - for which they are "play play". I assumed you had a 16:9 monitor rather than 4:3:- Secondly - You CAN buy a DVD changer (will also play CD & MP3 etc) - it connects via AV input into the video module (TV). Cost is about 1k though You can also get DIN sized DVD players (a cheaper option) which connect the same way. Both options give remote control.

Wondered when you would post the results of this Greg. Well done - Glad you're happy with it. Tis a brilliant system! That's the third ULF that I have had involvement with & still aint got in my own car Still - with it not being prewired for (to early) I really CBF doing a ground up install - considering I don't often drive the car & my other half doesn't use her cell a lot anyway

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Ray for replacement or - the changers can be repaired - quite a common issue Max Electronics in Auckland are good for repairing

It can, and much more... just requires a few more $$$ spent than a Dynavin option to achieve. That said, & without knocking it - personally I would far rather have the OEM monitor than the E38/39 Dynavin unit.