hotwire

Prolly just the combination of the interior materials. Yes they do all seem to smell the same. Variations will be due to degradation, humidity, damp carpets etc

Agreed with what everyone else has said. Glenn you summed up perfectly. Take care everyone & enjoy yourselves

Sorry no number for Fixit although to be honest I haven't looked. If you were to organise a time for Robinsons to do the job, you could drive up & wait a couple of hours for them to fix then drive back. No real difference to getting it fixed locally - car is still off the road regardless.

Prolly the market at ATM Jack. To my knowledge Paul hasn't been able to quit his either, this at half the price of yours. Not saying yours is necessarily over priced (probably about right for it's current state). Why don't you just run it for the rest of the season & enjoy, getting experience at the same time?

Maybe an antenna issue - looks to be some rougue wiring in the car. Maybe something has been tampered with. Yes the module is connected correctly.

That looks to be the GPS aerial lead. Where is the video module located? Behind the rear seat or L/H rear corner?

At least my race car is the right colour - that's a start That is one stunning M3, I am so envious

It will work on PAL Europe, Switzeland & from above -obviously Austria (though I haven't tried). It shouldn't return to Japan - I have never seen this happen before. If there is reception, once searching it should scan available stations. Otherwise try manually scanning

Yes it is more involve to replace with a DIN radio - as you say - all the units are in the boot. The monitor is just a dumby with a tape deck. Probably in this case it would be best to fit a new Dynavin. It will fit straight into the front BUT unlike a non monitor car, it will need a loom run to the rear to connect into the OEM radio wiring Edit: The pic you show is the amp, the video module & radio tuners are mounted behind the bulges in the trim on the rear seat

Sounds like Hitman Playstation game

^^^^ Still plenty of series cars running on 45mm struts with the series Koni adjustable shock. Still go round corners plenty well enough.

That's a Benz! - says so on the plate holder. Seriously though, I agree - the F/L rear looks better than the pre while the front looks worse. That said, can't say I am a real fan of E65's, have never really clicked to their design. Serious bang for buck with the prices they fetch now though. Downside - everything that goes wrong costs sh%$#@ loads fix. They are a very complex motor car & unless you have a good cheque book - they can bite.

E30 I assume?????????? If so - easy. Any benifit? Probably none you'll notice

Tragic loss of a life & for someone with such a talent. Guess it has been on the cards though. RIP

I like it & yes agree - to me it looks a modern version of the classic shark nose cars

Rules regarding front lights have changed several times over the years (fogs specifically) Years ago, when fogs were on, you had to lose main & dip beams lights - meaning only park & fog. Then, in the late 80's with the influx of Jap imports having front fogs that could go anytime - the rules were changed in that if factory fitted they were fine BUT if retrofitted fogs had to comply with above rule - this is not applicable now. Fogs can go at any time. They are termed a "permanently dipped" lamp - as per low beam head. Depending on the OE lamp setup dictates what extra lights can be fitted. You can only have 4 high beam lights on at once, meaning if vehicle has twin headlights & the outers are H4 (high/low) then you cannot fit spot (driving) lights as this makes 6 lamps. Park lights don't count & in most cases cannot be seen with headlights on. If like an E30 (& many modern cars) where the outer headlight is a single filament bulb (H1 etc) then it is a permanently dipped light & does not change from dip to high - so cannot be regarded as a high beam lamp. Thus you can fit extra "driving" (spot) lamps as per your pic - assuming those Hella lamps are driving lamp inserts. If the outer "smilies" were high & low beam (they are not) - then you couldn't - without losing one pair of lamps while the Hella's were on. To my knowledge - this rule is still the case.

^^^^ Doubt many E39's would have had seats recovered. Yes there are a few different styles. Mine are similar but with with more seams in the middle & different seat back cards & inc map pockets. The ones in that car do look like a basic version

John, 10 yrs is about the norm for OEM original battery, had the same from mine & seen many others of similar age through work. Replaced one in an E36 a few yrs ago that was OEM & 14 yrs old. Re fan: Check that you haven't got the auto fan on prgrammed to turn on. If it is, it will show the little red fan light in the edge of the monitor. If so - go into ventilation set mode & turn it off

Never tried that around turn one Jack but I would suspect you are losing too much momentum for fourth gear

Your'e ok Rich. Any errors in judgement are probably due to smoke inhalation from me in front of you

It is not a cold start sensor as such but an engine managament temp sender which relays a signal back to the ECU depending on engine temp. Is easy to diagnose - high resistance when cold (about 3kish ohms) down to around 250ish when engine at temperature. A varying reading working downwards as temp rises.

Haven't used that but according to sales blurb... everybody else has/does

^^^^ Would have been interesting to know what they were on about though. If nothing was wrong with the lights then they can't fail. Did you check /confirm the lamp setup was as was suggested above? What was the outcome of the headlights?

HB fella, You up for the weekend - cant see your entry?