hotwire

Amp power wire may be white from memory (don't quote me on that) & will need to have power on it for aerial amp to work. Has reception been the problem since radio change or after?

Back window with amp in L/H "C" pillar. Has the radio been changed? If so - the aerial amp wire been connected?

Well put Dave. Waste of an E12 in my book

John, Keep in mind when chasing the burnt wiring - a short will always burn from it's problem cause - back to it's source - ulimately power source (battery) but will generally run out at the next bigger wire up the line, eg, in this case - main ign feed from the switch. Obviously the smaller wire burns out first. Auxillary circuits are all factory fused so if this wiring is burnt - things have been bypassed OR this wiring is burnt externally from sitting next to problem melting wire in the loom. If you need any help - PM me

Yes - depends on this as to the reason. L-Jet uses a spring in the HT rotor to limit RPM with syntrifugal force. Motronic is controlled by ECU

Even though new - Could still be a battery fault in the remote - seen this before. Remove cover & use a multi meter to monitor voltage across contacts while pressing a button (under load) Make sure voltage doesn't drop. Remote could also be out of frequency range. Requires a frequency counter to check this. Do you have a second remote/ does this work ok? Also check battery connections in remote. Aerial lead comes out of the alarm module itself. Get hold of Mongoose to check it out for you: 0800 805 080

Yep, normal to sound the same - cats due to their makeup will act as a resonator but a little more restrictive Would expect better consumption figues because of this. May not notice performance difference but if compared on a Dyno - it would no doubt show a slight gain.

No What? Read the first post again! - He states "indicators" work sometimes - & not others. He doesn't say that the rears work but the front don't. I am aware of what you are talking about & aware of the result when this happens - fast blinking - the flasher unit is designed to do this to indicate a lamp out. From his description - yours is not "one" reason for his indicators failing. Not disputing the fault in your car & infact have seen this problem in them myself. AND - I didn't say everything is always a fuse, infact I didn't even mention fuse in this case.

Won't be that - if a front one was out then the back would still go & besides - hardly likely both front lights are out together

Oli, yep will have one, don't remember SA car as different. Which side? PM me if you like

I've got one if you require - PM me You may be able to repair though - usually a dry joint inside the flasher which can be resoldered. Remember - these cars are 20+ years old now so things will go wrong

Whoa- can still see it in the screen as I write this - wierd!

Yes, thats the only way to connect to have all lights working - as is normal for trailer wiring

Firstly - put a gauge in it! Normal operating temp around 88 deg mark & obviously - make sure it's bled properly

I would say minimal difference, if noticeable, either way. I have no experience with hi flow cats though

Yep - as Brent said - check window switch illumination. 0.1 is still very little (little more than twice the norm) & that in itself will not flatten a good battery in a couple of days - even a week for that matter. Will not be a bulb anywhere as draw would be more

Yep, with straight pipe replacement will be slightly louder & a little droney - I have done this before on one of these for a customer. Not excessive though:- If you don't want more noise - go for what Glenn has suggested. I would suggest a fluted type bullet resonator as quietest & to mimick the cats

Ouch!! not cheap! Realitively common problem though

Think you've already confirmed that when you say (& show) that the lights are not as bright as before the mods to them

I guess so David -smartass if you don't want to see behind

Wouldn't have thought so, have you still got the auto box? If so -where is the reverse switch wiring on it & where did that wiring connect to?

Yep agree but this will be when fitting aftermarket There is still a lighting requirement: - if a light is fitted - it must work In this case - they are part of the light cluster Reverse lights are policed by VT here - generally Front fogs - again - if present - they must work & to specs. They can however be removed completely - often the case where one is damaged

Mark, Can't remember on car but from BMW wiring info: Green/yellow is ign in Green/Black is start out Blue/White is reverse out Meaning: Join Green/Yellow to Green/Black for inhibitor bypass Also connect Green/Yellow to one wire to reverse switch & blue/white to the other Brown is earth & not used for start/reverse circuits but is earth for auto shifter illumination - now not used. SA colours may vary (can't remember) but wiring configuration should be the same. If this is the case - Confirm 12v wire (ign), join to start wire & also to one reverse switch wire & the other switch wire to the third one

Check the LTSA lighting rules. Like I said - maybe they omitted to check reverse lights - often the case but doesn't change the ruling

Regarding reverse wiring, yes the SA cars differ in many aspects but Im not sure the reverse light wiring does. (Don't quote me though) The switch is still on the box as usual & still requires connecting to the car so wiring must be there somewhere. Inhibitor switch is same in both cars. How many wires were in the plug for the inhibitor switch?