hotwire

Yep, sorry - didn't think to mention the obvious - turn it on Nav - quite likely removed:- Two plugs - a small black squarish plug & a white flat plug with from memory 5 wires. Nav can be resurected if wished - but at a cost Jap radio needs biffing & replacing with Euro unit

No alarm is fitted to Jap E39's. Clown nose in the Jap car mirror houses the IR receiver for remote locking. Euro version car uses RF remote communication & houses the alarm LED in the clown nose instead.

Are you the first owner in NZ? Car would have at least had CD changer & probably nav as original fitment (not seen a Jap car with TV but no nav) Fuse boxes located in glove box & in boot by battery. Should have battery feed (red/green) & acc (purple/white Try disconnecting battery to reset system. Band expanders are CRAP in these cars - best to fit a euro tuner PM if you wish for a rundown on things

Good that you've sorted but strange that you had two crook alts that were suposidly good. You should also trace & diagnose/fix the W/light circuit -it aint rocket science - no offence

Would love to make room for it in my garage. It certainly seems well priced. Dunno how it hasn't lost that "Goofy" rear plate holder alright. Would be the first thing for me to lose

May have two problems - w/light circuit & alt May need to rev beyond 3G for alt to self excite but if it is good it will self excite. 11 volts on w/light wire -disconnected from alt?? Makes no sense as if bulb is not working -blue wire should be open circuit. Check warning light as I described earlier, if ok at dash - check dash plug & also at firewall plug.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=262055799

As I said - E30 alt requires to operate: It is a simplistic system:- -Main battery supply -Main earth (alt Body) -W/light to excite (blue wire) Come on with ign & off when started & charging If no light when earthing blue wire at alt - check at bulb holder in cluster - probe each side of holder with test light - look for 12v on one side & if bulb is good- probing other side will make w/l glow, if not - check bulb holder contacts. Will have nothing to do with battery & as I said - with no w/l - alt (if good) will still excite with high revs

Yep the only way to install 6x9's into E30 due to their shelf setup but an absolute waste of time with the spacers as the speakers will never perform properly when enclosed like that. Decent 6" or 6.5" mounted into shelf or none

Shite Bruce, thats an unusual one, think I have only seen this in a new battery once, maybe twice in nearly 30yrs in the trade. Seen many times when batteries have been recharged incorrect polarity though.

4 years for an original BMW battery?? Thats not overly good. Are you sure it's crook? Just replaced mine at 10 yrs & have replaced lots in BMW's at up to & beyond that age. The OE fit batteries are usually Varta or similar & of very good quality. 4 yrs ish is common enough for run of mill brands. Having said that - any brand can fail at any time. Don't need to go genuine but make sure you get a calcium one of similar size/spec

HB Russell, as others above - see you in Jan

Yep, splice into wire, solder the splice & tape.

I don't doubt the earth - wouldn't crank properly without. Touch the blue W/L wire at the alternator to earth - should light the bulb. If it does - crook alt. If not - check wiring:- Check the cluster - W/L needs ign supply to one side of bulb & other side comes out in a plug to the the blue wire leading to the alt. Earth that wire behind the dash & check for light - if not - problem inside. If it goes - problem in wire between dash & alt. Never seen an internal fault in cluster to cause this scenario

Blown charge warning light bulb?? To charge - the alternator needs: Main battery feed Earth - thru engine Warning light connected to D+ on alt. Light must come on with key on & obviously goes out when alt is charging. It relies on current draw of light with key on to "excite" the alternator on start up. Generally a Bosch alt will self excite without a light but only with high initial revs - 3 -4k

Are you sure you haven't a fault elsewhere? Seems unlikely you would come across 10 faulty units in a row. Why can't you take a multimeter to use to test them - surely you are entitled to confirm you are buying a good one.

May have missed it somewhere, but out of curiosity - what was the story re fixing the economy issue?

Withdrawn - those bloody muppet TM police at it again!

Well done. God on you

No debate about it I'd say. DO IT!!

Totally agree -these cars rewrote the rally scene & therefore have a place in history - as do E30 M3's & many other cars. They are still highly regarded by the enthusiasts for their pedegree & shear driving pleasure. Yes to the handling, feedback & grip - i found mine a real buzz to drive - even though non turbo. A little agricultural in build quality when comparing to BMW but more than made up for with it's driveabilty. That 2.2 5 cyl engine was almost bullet proof - from it's basic form to outputs described above When I got my Quattro coupe - I was under the impression that at the time there were only 80 in NZ with only 18 UR Quattro Turbos - this unsubstantiated though:-)

Didn't know of their existance either - until a couple of years ago when I sold an M40 alternator to a guy with an E34 M40. Then again, probably no surprise - The E12 came as 4 cyl option, probably E28 too (not sure on that though) I would imagine them a bit of a slug though

This can also be clear laquer that car dealers have sprayed on to give "the look". A look that certainly doesn't "look" later on

Aye?? RS4 is a Quattro. And if you are comparing an RS4 with this - there's nearly 20 yrs age difference. These cars pioneered the 4WD rally scene in early 80's & for a few years - nothing touched them. I reacon that Audi somewhat lost the plot with next models although in last 10yrs or so have put out some blinding cars

Nup, This one real mckoy. Easy tell by box guards & 5 stud wheels. Mine was Quattro & similar look but standard shell & 4 stud