hotwire

Are you saying you have or haven't got the console out? If not - you need to. Also wil need to lift acc pedal (or cut the carpet)

Just awesome. Love the attention to detail

Anticipation huh

I can help with this. PM me

Normally have but sold & installed last one 2 weeks ago - currently getting more at the moment. PM me if you wish

Yep, whatever. If only one crack in the cable - just tape around it then retape the loom. If very brittle right along - then best to replace the section of wiring from where it links to the main loom. I doubt you will have to do this though.

Will be safe regardless - only controls the light. Is it just the fabric tape that has frayed or is the cable delaminating the insulation?

Nup can't get into it myself either. As above - wannabes trying to take off the original - dosen't work! Track is crap! May have been a better show if they had gone into with their own approach & style, but - I wonder if Jeremy had the controlling "influence" on how the show was to be presented - I suspect so

Yep, got some - PM me

Nup, just disconnect neg terminal on battery

Yep - E46 setup - runs thru resistor for second tail bulb. Not quite sure of the reasoning for it though - just complicates a simplistic system. I'm sure it must be a case of "doing it" - because we can

Good on you Tony. Certainly Beer o'clock after that effort. I admire your dedication. Even as an auto sparky - Im not sure I could be arssed with the effort required to make it all work. Loving the result though

NOT done by me then. Lost count of how many times over the years I have traced trailer light faults back to those things in the car.

+ 1 ^^^^^^^ To be honest - unless you know what to look for - best see a sparky with knowledge to check it. Is it a constant short? If so - shouldn't be to hard to find. If intermittent then yes - more of a challenge. The system has already given you a head start by isolating left to right.

Yep, with everything working correctly - the system is very efficient. You must have a problem. As above - engine temperature. Pipe connections shouldn't matter as water will still flow through heater core regardless. Also may have faulty heater valve.

Richard The black & white plugs will be the nav plugs I mentioned. I am sure your car would have had nav fitted & probably removed. The nav unit in the Jap car houses in an enclosure under the rear shelf in the centre of the boot. The Euro spec car has it mounted in L/H rear corner. Yes if you reinstalled a Jap nav unit & disc - you will get a map of Japan - rather useless here though Yes you require eithe a CD or better, a DVD Euro spec nav unit to make the system operate here. Wiring differences though between Jap/Euro systems. Don't require a later radio module - rather a Euro spec unit. 11/99 may have Jap DVD system 1 or II -my 04/99 had 1. Both essentially the same units though

Better than nearly a couple of grand for a new one. My car had the pixel problem when I imported it nearly 5 yrs ago. I gave the cluster to Robinsons at the time (deal with them at work) & they were unable to fix. No other instrument repairers I spoke to here could either. I then found an outfit in the States on the net so sent the cluster to them - this cost me $500 inc freight each way. Been perfect since. I then put Robinsons on to them to get the procedure to fix. This was all before any DIY repair info was on the net too.

Partly correct ^^^^^^ Yes to the tanks as physically described but incorrect as to fuel transfer in the F/L tank. This is infact done via a syphon type tube (on fuel return) mounted inside the tank where it runs along bottom of L/H side up & across the bridge & down into the swirl pot by the fuel pickup on the drivers side. There is a sender on each side. If yours is F/L- I recommend removing both senders (under cover each side of car) & checking fuel level in each side is the same. I had a case in my race car when I first got it where unknown to me - the syphon tube inside the tank had a hole in it up near the top at the bridge, this caused the tank to empty from the drivers side (as usual) but fuel return was simply dumping into L/H side & not transferring due to the loss of prime in the pipe. Net result - car running out of fuel & L/H side still full. Remedy - replace the tank. Motometer/VDO - not a compatibility issue - they interchange Edit: If fuel levels correct - Check L/H sender

If you don't want to DIY then Robinson Instruments Service in Auckland can do the job.

Yep - via AV - audio + video

True for above - I am an authorised installer. May not be a requirement for an E30 though. -Check with your insurer Re alarms - I would say bin the Uniden option. There are plenty of good alarms available - Mongoose, Dynatron, AVS etc Any decent one will connect straight to the locking module in the car, Uniden (older units anyway) often required a separate interface.

Glenn - you watching?? Here we go again with my ..... did this & it was ..... causing the problem. Every car is different! Graham - The tacho signal IS fed via ECU (signal in turn from low tension) & unlikely to be an ECU problem. As you say - check dash plug connections but my money would be on fault in tacho - dry joint or similar EDIT: Or - "sticking" - check needle

The video modules have AV & camera in options

Liking it - nice colour

WHY??