will

excuses, excuses... tsk..tsk..tsk

Managed to add and delete some pics, delete is via the 'My Controls' but deletes all pics in the album, there must be another way.. Another handy feature would be to be able to upload multiple pics at once instead of one by one, have tried using 'ctrl' and 'shift' but will not allow multiple selections.. But at least this old techno-idiot is managing to get something posted.. Will

If the 'dish' is not obvious on staggered rims, the offset will be quite different front to rear. These rims did not have any obvious stagger from the front, that is why I asked about the offset as they are advertised as having 1.5" difference in width front to rear, which IS significant and could have a major impact as to what vehicle they could be used on. (I have an e28) Somewhere on the rims will be stamped the width eg 9.5J and the offset eg ET20, that will tell all...... not too much to ask?? Will

Those don't look like staggered offset rims to me, are you sure???? The width/offset should be stamped on each rim. Will

When I used to race motorbikes (track, enduro and MX), we would only use full synthetic on a newly built motor, using it on an older motor that had already been broken in on standard oil would cause early failure- guaranteed! In the same vein, using non-synthetic oil in a new motor would give it a far shorter lifespan than a motor on full synthetic. We used to replace piston rings after every hard race, and the visible difference in wear between a motor using full synthetic and one using standard oil was quite obvious. Will

Barf, Glenn is using sidedraught carbs, not fuel injection. He is using the older M30 3.5 motor in this project, so all he has to control is the ignition (timing, spark, advance/retard etc..) via electronic methods.. Will

Glenn, been having some more thoughts on this, will contact you when I unscramble them into some better sense.. Will

If you phone LTSA 10 times, you equally will get at least 8 different answers... tragically!

Martyn, I know where you can get a double-decker bus that has had the upper floor removed.... Will

ASC in an E30?? Been smoking the wrong brand of socks again Chris??

Bahahahahaha... VERY FUNNY!!! I tried the LTSA when busy trying to suss out what paperwork/mods/conversions etc were necessary to register my e36 vert, the info given me couldn't have been more wrong.. and I phoned them several times with different questions, spoke with different people and AWAYS was given the incorrect info. The VTNZ was equally bad, person there doing compliance hadn't a clue, AND he had been passed by LTSA as being competent.. blind leading the blind I think. In the end I went to the VINZ in Whangarei, spoke with extremely helpful people there (Tim, Peter) who put me onto a chappie called Scott (Auckland VTNZ in Mt Wellington I think). Now he REALLY knows his stuff, sorted my issues out quickly, gave me all the CORRECT info I should've received from the LTSA and VTNZ. (Between the LTSA and VTNZ I nearly gave up and wrecked the car!!!) I don't know how much he would know about the emission rules, but, in my experience with him, if he doesn't know, he DOESN'T bullsh*t pretending he knows, he goes off, gets the facts AND gets back to you QUICKLY!! I would recommend you contact him and see what he says. This is an unashamed plug for the VINZ and Scott in particular, without their knowledge and efforts, I would be sitting with a very expensive unusable e36 Schnitzer convertible right now!! If I ever have to do any sort of compliancing etc again, I will be using the VINZ ... Will Pic of the "saved" vert...

I don't think what you have found is the ECU for the engine, it is always above the pedal cluster in the E30 (RHS). Follow the engine management loom where it goes through the firewall on the driver's side (next to the battery) and you will find it up under the dash above the pedals. You may have to remove the cover under the steering to get to it. Will

Done... Will

in fact the second part of my sig says it all... although "one" should read "many" on this forum at present..

Well said Gus! I say ban those who insist on using indecipherable text "language" on this forum... in fact a language is a means to make yourself clearly understood, and the drivel posted at he beginning of this post certainly is anything but!!

If Gus is driving, ANYTHING is possible..

All of the SE models I have come across have had "cosmetic" things like leather, bodykit, cruise control, full obc etc, no bilsteins, lsd. However, I suspect that some might have been ordered new with extras like LSD, Bilsteins etc so the only way to be certain is to check it out thoroughly yourself or take it to one of the local BMW agents/specialists and get them to give you a report. Will

I have a 2.93.. should let you do 300+kph... (once you have added your turbo and gas.. and taken a LARGE dose of brave pills...)

2.5 M20 motor is significantly stronger (Power/torque wise) than 2.0 M20. Also it is a job that can be done in a few hours with NO mods. M50B25 involves a lot of mods to make it fit and will probably take weeks to get it all fabricated/installed and will cost significantly more than an M20 2.5 transplant. The 2.5 will bolt up to the 2.0 gearbox, diff might be a bit short depending on your taste, 2.5 generally has a 3.64 ratio, and you will need the 2.5 computer box. Will EDIT>>> forgot that the exhaust manifold is normally different between the 2.0/2.5. Most 2.0 have a 3stud manifold where the downpipe bolts on and the 2.5 has a 4stud connection. You can swap the manifolds but the 2.0 generally has a smaller internal diameter so I would recommend using the 2.5 one and changing the downpipe on your exhaust.

Glenn, took this pic of the M30 motor showing the dizzy, it sticks up a lot above the level of the rocker cover.. Will

Go to "my controls", select "manage ignored users" and add plonker's user name... Unfortunately there are a couple of people on the forum who are determined to displace the Almighty when they die, they don't have opinions, what they spew forth is gospel and beware any poor mortal who dares to question/challenge their statements of FACT.. Back to s.o.s.n.z... the M3 comes pretty well setup standard, but it is an all-round setup that leans towards performance handling. In my opinion, the improvement worth investing money in would be a decent set of adjustable coilovers matched to the vehicle and installed and setup by someone who KNOWS what they are doing. (not forgetting that, no matter how good the suspension setup is, it will only handle as well as the tyres allow it to...) A spring swap would not be my personal choice here. Will

Bentley manual Buy from Amazon.com, got mine there, took about 2 weeks to get here, cost me $76 (just found my slip) all up some while ago. This looks to be a lot cheaper now. Get in while the exchange rate is still good in our favour! PS don't know of any online manual available, have searched with no luck. Will

Pretty sure those headers will not fit. However, if you are going to get a set of headers, don't waste you money on anything that does not have equal length downpipes and proper collectors. Gains will not be worth the cost imo. Good luck with wheels, difficult to find a set that really suits the 'vert. Depends on what look you are after. For the classic look, I think nothing will beat a good set of 16" RS's, but if you want a more sporty or hot-rod look, who knows..? I have a set of 17" polished AC 5-spoke look alikes on my red e30 vert, I also have a set of 16" RS wheels, I prefer the AC style wheels to the RS wheels.. your choice in the end. Will

That's a smart looking mobility scooter...

It has to do with access to the rear seat, my cert required that the seat not only tip foward but move forward to enable access to/from rear seat. So if you can fit the bucket seat to the existing rail and retain that move and tip movement when you use the tip lever, you won't require a cert (from what I understood from the cert person). Will