will

1. yes 2. yes, check the attached .pdf for how to get the top bit off. It involves first removing the dizzy cap at the front of the head, then getting the rotor arm off inside so you can remove the dust cover, then getting the alley cover off is easy. The motor can't be run with the cover off as you won't be able to remount the dizzy cap, but you can turn the engine over using the crank bolt to check the belt for condition of teeth, tension, etc. No gaskets required to reassemble, just replace the dust cap, rotor arm and dizzy cap after putting the alley cover back. We all had to start somewhere, my father used me one day at the ripe old age of just under a year old to help him work on his Fiat cub, sat me on the fender and handed me very greasy spanners to hold.. he barely survived the earbashing my mother gave him.. been at it ever since. Will

I wish I could tell you how much abuse I have handed out to medium-case diffs in my long association with various BM's.. have shredded many, many clutches in the lsd's and collapsed a few CV's (prob due to the boots being broken), but never broken the diff itself, even non-lsd ones..the rubber companies should award me a medal for it !! Will

Martyyn, I went for the cambelt option because it seemed the most likely to cause a consistant noise and cause a loss of power. But if the noise was definitely from the rear of the motor then I am at a bit of a loss. If it was the donut coupling between the gearbox and the prop, it would normally rattle the fillings out of your teeth if it was severe enough to cause the car to refuse to rev. while being driven. If you are absolutely sure it was from the rear of the engine, I suggest you start the car and report on the following, may give me a better idea what might be happening. (Leave it idling just to make sure the noise isn't coming from the timing belt cover up front!! If it is, switch it OFF!!!) Is the noise present while the car is standing still and in neutral while idling? (foot off clutch) If this is the case, if you depress the clutch pedal, does it then go away? Or does it only appear when in gear, with clutch depressed, Or while being driven? Does it increase with revs? Let me know what you find. I have attached a .pdf with the M40 engine in amongst the rest of the pages. Sorry I can't separate it. May be of help to you.

I have 6.5 kappas in my vert, good sound. Advantage is that they fit in to the kick panel with a bit of fiddling so that you don't have a problem with your bonnet lever. Will

The belt is hidden behind the cover at the front. You would have to do some removal to get to it. The bit that makes me think it is more than just a fan etc coming apart is the lack of power at increasing rpm, that would normally signify that the timing is haywire. It may not be this but the noise you are getting along with the loss of power strongly suggests something like this. I will try to get something up when I get back from work, but, in the meantime, try to have a look at the front area behind the fan and see if there is any bits of cambelt oozing out from behind the cover if you can't figure how to remove it. I would still not try to start it at this stage because of the damage you could do even at idle speeds. Gus, beats a bicycle hands down..!!! Bet you wish you had a 316 auto right now !! Will

this will be the m40 motor, will destruct if it is a cambelt shredding itself and it breaks.. Would be the first thing I would check and DON'T start the motor again till you have checked it.. Will

Gareth, stuff Brazil, bring your body up here birthday boy.. it will be one to remember!! Will

I bought two off ebay (UK) a short while ago. Cost me NZ$56 to land them here. Will

A good complete LSD for an E36 is going to cost you in the region of +1K. If you are going to remove the non-lsd centre and fit a lsd centre, you will need to get a proper specialist to do it. It needs all sort of special set-ups, which, if done by your average mechanic, will result in a short-lived lsd.. However, you have an auto 320.. If you had a manual 325 I would understand the need for an LSD, stretching the imagination for a manual 320, but an auto? I personally think it is a waste of effort and money. Why the want for an LSD?? Save it for your planned 325/328 imo.. my 2c worth for what it is worth.. Will

the little key is a rod with hex ends. This connects the dizzy shaft to the oil pump drive. I have just searched my bits and can't find one anywhere to show you what it looks like. I have plenty of them in that bloody "safe" place... It must have somehow dropped out when you removed the dizzy. Strange as it has a retainer to hold it in place to prevent this happening. Removing the sump will require you suspend the motor, undo and lower/remove the crossmember before you can get the sump off. The oil pump and its pickup will prevent you getting the sump off without getting the crossmember well out of the way. You will also have to remove the cover that attaches to the bellhousing and attaches to the engine block at the rear of the motor to get to the rear sump bolts. You will also need a sump gasket as this will destruct when you remove the sump. Will

Ashkan You had better check that the oil pump drive is engaging, it is driven by the distributor. When I spoke to Gus I tried to explain about the slot under the dizzy having to locate into the oil pump drive and having to turn it so it did. Somewhere along the line when removing the dizzy to get the timing right it sounds like that meshing didn't happen. DO NOT START THE CAR AGAIN TILL YOU HAVE CHECKED IT !!! Your motor is at significant risk!! I just hope you havn't done terminal damage to it already.. ALWAYS check why the oil pressure light is on and don't drive the car till you have definitely found the reason for it being on. The fact that the dipstick shows full means squat!! Will

see what you and Andy did to the poor old fella last time down in Tauranga..!!!! Hope its not permanent.. Will

Told you it was easy! Also, you may have damaged the thermostat with the overheating as I said, just keep an eye on it.Gareth, are you coming up north for the meet??? Comeon, no excuses now, car not overheating any more.. Will

This is not an easy fit into your car unless you swap over sump etc. By the sounds of it, it could be a lemon. I personally would leave it alone.. Will

BMW eater!!

done..

Gareth, phone me, easy fix. Will

The 260 is a much beefier box than the 240, can take large Hp. 240 is fine in a 320, 260 is better for the 325 but 240 will suffice in both the 320 and 325 if the driver is not named Gary, Gus etc... I have a 320 and a 323 at the moment, both with 240's and have another two 240's, both out of 320's, in fact it is a long time since I saw a 260 in anything other than a 325. I have long since stopped making definitive statements about what comes out of where, every time I just start to think I have it figured, something else pops up and blows my theory out of the water. [btw, this is specifically directed at the E30 where it seems anything goes on that comes out of the parts bin at the time..] Will

jees, I didn't see any Allegro in the pic???

great pics.. couldn't fail to notice the magnificent Gus all resplendant in some of them, but minus his hammer????? wtf?????? AND I just noticed he has also managed to keep most of his clothing on too..

with a body like that how could I refuse !!!!

The 'best car' boils down to a good old saying... "beauty in the eye of the beholder" after all, my wife obviously saw someting in this ugly old b*stard and married me and has stuck with me for 27 years now.. and can I share in the throttling, Kerry (if you find that Allegro-loving person..) ??? Will

not into this one Graeme. thinking of an e21 body for it..

removing all things like badges, doorhandles, locks etc

Def supermotard for me if I ever get back in the saddle. Raced offroad enduros for many years till I dropped my front wheel in a pig-hole at about 110kmh and the end result was crushed vertebrae in my neck, havn't raced since. Have a 1500 goldwing under restoration, is like riding a lazyboy on wheels... Will