M3AN

He may not be back but that's not really helpful advice. Be better.

Hi Felo and welcome. Since you've already paid a lot for a tune, have you spoken to the people that did it? I wonder if they can return it to stock so you can check for, and fix any other problems with the car, and then reinstall the performance tune? That's not a lot of work (for them) and since you've already paid for the tune perhaps they might just charge you labour only? I think it's worth asking them. Do report back on your progress. 👍

Business RDS = many headunits... do you want a tape deck or a CD43?

I'm guessing Textile = Textar... BBK just because? Or do you have trouble with the CSL setup?

Je ne comprends pas. Under what circumstances do you need new belts? Are you saying that any replacement seat triggers new belts? And how can they tell if your belts are new, if they're the same as the old ones?

Ouch! Why didn't your existing ones qualify?

I suspect it's a N52MHP where the "M" stands for magic, you almost certainly have one of these engines when you simply know it has 300hp, mainly because you've done all the work on it yourself, and you know it's faster than some of the others you've seen on the internet. Looks like a reasonable car with a questionable history, if you got away with a new engine and/or potentially some electronics there could be some value in it. I suspect however the current owner knows it's not economical to repair.

As above, unless it's visibly leaking (and it doesn't appear to be) then it's worth at least $250, looks to me to be a $275+ rack, I wouldn't let it go for much less. It's a HUGE upgrade for E36's so don't let it go for nothing, $200 minimum.

Clean purple tag rack, +$25.

Car came with the tune, I tracked down which one by interrogating the software name/version then hunting through the net.

This is mine, in so far as an internet picture proves anything...

I hesitated, was a manual-only guy, happy with the auto for a daily now, have the M3 for manual fun, I've gained a lot and lost nothing important.

A custom tune is not practical without a dyno, road tuning it is not economically feasible, how else could you measure it? If anyone claims they can give you a custom tune for your car ask them how they measure the benefits of their work. Edit: these engine are well known, the shelf tunes that are out there are probably as good as you can expect now, whether it's 270 or 280 horsepower really doesn't matter, just use somebody competent. Whatever you do, unless you nanny it, your fuel economy will go to sh*t with a performance tune, be prepared.

As above, question is: Ramp or jack + stands. Answer is: Jack + stands is more versatile, ramps are cheaper and quicker.

Fantastic aesthetic improvement! And no, go-flats are much more comfortable, it's no placebo.

Yes, it's a thing, ~280hp is the standard claim, I couldn't tell you where to get it done though I'm afraid. My auto box has also been flashed and it's feral in sport mode.

Well, they look great but cost thousands, and the BMWP version is unobtanium. You'd not feel any power gains, they'd be marginal at best. The stock airbox is pretty good, replace the pipe and sound generator with a Mishimoto silicon hose or equivalent and drop in a K&N or BMC filter and you're probably sorted, all for less than $250.

True on the filter, BMC is also an option, that's what mine came with. Necessary? Probably not. LCA's aren't on your list but Chris is right, if you ever need to replace or rebush your existing ones you might as well upgrade them.

No, not really.

Yes, and V8 Supercars also run a square setup, not because it's better but because it's a spec. Formula 1 cars (and all formula cars actually) run staggered and that's for a reason. A staggered setup does not increase understeer, that's a measurable fact. If you have more rear traction you can go faster, choosing when to do so, and getting that choice right, is what makes a quick driver. A quick driver will always be faster in a RWD car on a staggered setup.

Did BMW put the decals on (or complete the renders)? "6MT FTW"! 🤣

I have no recommendations other than don't take it to a place you're not happy with. Some comments on the quote: They've not (explicitly) included the cost of oil, that seems like an oversight. Filter and plugs, probably the easiest thing you can do DIY, although that's not a silly price Do not pay this for castor bushes and labour, all in it's a $300 job (parts and labour) MAX OFH and cam cover gasket always need doing but the labour costs are silly, it's a 3h job only The "transmission bundle" at $800 is probably good value, but only if yours is leaking excessively BM Workshop are west'ish, they used to be great but I haven't used them for years, they might be worth asking for the same work, at least to get a comparison. You do realise this is a fallacy right? The perceived understeer may increase but actual understeer, i.e. the load at which the fronts will break grip, remains exactly the same. Adding more traction at the rear can push the fronts harder but they'll still hold on to the same point. e.g. a 225/245 setup will have exactly the same amount of understeer as a 225/255 setup (or 225/275 for that matter) because it has exactly the same amount of front grip. Having more rear traction may induce understeer earlier but that only because it's pushing harder (i.e. going faster). This is managed by the right foot. On a RWD car, more rear tyre is always an advantage unless you live in perpetual monsoon territory. FWIW, I can easily break traction with 255's on the rear of my 130i with a 280hp tune and it's an auto with an LSD. I consider anything less as inadequate.

Indeed, and it has a nice bunch of BMWP bits... sharp option, worth considering.

That's what I run.

I know the feeling, motorway scrap took out a rear Eagle F1 Assym 5 with less than 50km's on it in the M3 a few years back, slash in the sidewall, irreparable. 😬