Mike

Can you please write in proper english? This is what the keyboard is for. Also, man up and post a price. Use trademe if you want to run an auction.

a mate of mine used an old fire extenguisher, just unscrewed the top and put a regulator in its place. How much hassle to setup an account at BOC? There are different kinds of gas available, CO2, argoshield etc but I cant tell you enough about pro's/con's of each.

I had 2 years out of it with minimal other mods. the M10 will easily take 8psi all day. I was running 12psi. I can't really say how hard it will be to bolt on, depends on how competent you are. Could be done in a weekend probably if you've done similar things before.

wheels have been sold.

yeah not happy bout it, took me ages to decide, this is just best option overall. Get in touch for sure if your down, would love to check out the M50 weapon. I'll probably still be lurking on these boards for a while yet.

No, what I meant was if the motor hasn't been apart and you can get the old gasket off cleanly then it should be fine as it is. Are you using ARP studs also?

Car's a bit dead. Pretty sure head is cracked after on-going cooling problems. Have decided to sell for parts as I can't keep 2 cars and its not suitable when I'm driving 500km a week. I could chuck a new motor in it but just dont have the time anymore. Been a fun project and learnt shitloads but time to move on. will probably build a silly turbo bmw in a few years after OE.

when I spoke to cometic about mine they said factory finish is normally fine, its just sub-standard repair jobs that can cause problems

So your course is only for 12 weeks? in that case just start saving now, its what everyone else does during the holidays. Or just get a part time job? Seriously, think of it as a trial, if you cant handle 12 weeks now your going to be screwed when it comes to 3 years of uni or whatever

worth buying guys, cool little mod. might as well replace some of the shifter bushings as well

I have one, $2000 and comes with free car, bilstein shocks, urethane bushings, springs

oxygen thieves. how can 300 people be that pathetic and idiotic?

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....mp;#entry218788 bout $300 from memory to shift a car to auckland. I'm hoping to get $2000, bit more than what you wanted to spend but you can sell off a lot of the turbo and engine gear, and also save yourself some coin on the suspension.

PM'dwheels most likely gone, willing to sell entire car without wheels/stereo for $1500 or $2000 with stereo. any lower than that I'll most likely part it out. going on tardme next week sometime.

yip, was gonna basically bolt the 2.0 up to the current setup. would cost very little for someone else to do the same, I've already brought the expensive bits. M20/M50 would fit in no worries if you're a bit scared of buying a turbo project. I'd really like to sell it complete, seems too rude to tear it apart for bits. Buy it. this is the cheapest way to get all the bits you want/need. suspension alone cost around $2500, and is still excellent condition. thats easy to bolt in, keep the turbo kit until you're ready to start playing with that. Drive it and see how an e30 should handle

bump

Nah warms up ok. I'm going up the coast everyday and can't help but take the paekakariki hill rd, which costs a fortune in gas. I can't help myself, you know how much fun boosted e30's are. I wont reply to any PM's yet about individual parts. If someone buys the lot for parts I'll pass the offers on.

no, thats all included, I'm just not expecting anyone to want to keep it as it is a custom setup and could be tricky to suss it all out if they wanted to work on it. It needs cooling issues sussed, new stud in head to stop exhaust leak, (or new motor-included) and new turbo drain line as its warped and leaking. I'm quite happy to spend sometime running the new owner through the whole car explaining what I've done and how it all works but don't wont someone coming back a few months down the track saying something broke. It is a modified car, and isn't going to have the same reliability as a an unmolested corolla. All megasquirt parts also included such as USB adapter, simulator, cables, etc.

no, got the audio wrong, otherwise correct

Sadly the time has come for me to get rid of my long term M10 turbo project. Time and circumstances just don't allow me to work on it or keep it anymore, and I'm doing too many kilometers now to keep it as a daily. I'm trying to decide whether to part it out or sell as the rolling shell. The current motor is pretty stuffed (but running) so I was planning to put a 2 litre into it but it doesn't make sense for me to spend any more money on it. As the car is now it would be ideal for someone looking to do an engine transplant for a track or fun car. There's no reason you can't keep it as an M10 turbo though, it just needs some work. Body is reasonable, few little dings and scratches but paint still comes up really nice after a polish. Suspension: Bilstein shocks Lower springs 60/40 drop Adjustable rear camber and toe billet/urethane rear shock mounts urethane subframe and trailing arm bushings Powerflex control arm bushings 51mm 325i struts 325i rear sway bar. factory rear discs I'm very happy with the setup, many people would have similar setups and makes the car a lot of fun on roads like Paekakariki hill. Shocks and shock mounts wouldn't have more than 3000km on them, rest of the gear is a older but is still in great shape. Wheels: 16x7.5 ET25 AC Schnitzer - Black centers with polished lips, cleaned up 2 years ago but still in really good condition. No curbing at all, and were all straight and true at the last balance. Have all centercaps too, though one is missing in picture. 205/50/R16 tyres, front probably wont get wof, rears should do. May sell seperately depending on price. Engine: 1.8L M10 - 265xxx km. Custom tubular manifold, wastepipe and exhaust, 300cc injectors, VG30 Turbocharger running 10~12psi, modified RB20 intercooler, ARP headstuds, cometic metal head gasket (thicker to reduce compression), Megasquirt V3.0 with adapter loom, Innovate LC-1 wideband (may need new sensor or simply calibration), M30B35 radiator, 325i expansion tank, Z3 1.9L short shift lever Interior/ICE: Black leather comfort seats, fronts are pretty stuffed along the seams, rear still good nick (have the fold down arm rest). Oil pressure, air/fuel, boost gauges, soundstream 10" in custom box firing through ski-hole, fusions 6.5" components up front and 6.5" co-axials in the rear, alpine 350w rms class D sub amp, kenwood class A/B powering fronts, pioneer MP3/WMA flashy screen headunit (3 hi-volt preouts etc) Again depending on price may sell seperately. Also has a professionally installed 4 star alarm. Also have plenty of spares, 2 bottlecaps, complete 2.0L M10 motor, small case 4.27 diff, + more. I also got 95% of the way through a big brake kit, just need to finish assembling one of the calipers (rebuilt) and bolt it on. consisted of 288x25mm rotors and 5 series calipers, haven't tested though so may need balance adjustment. I'm thinking along the lines of $2000 for the shell and all motor/suspension parts but without wheels or audio. Keep all the turbo kit or sell what you dont need. The turbo, megasquirt, and wideband should fetch $500 all up as those are universal parts, unsure what the specific M10 turbo parts are worth. +$600 for wheels, + $700 audio I'm open to negotiation as I would prefer to sell it complete, but I do have a pretty good idea of what the individual parts are worth and may part it out if I can't get a reasonable price complete. EDIT - sh*t, forgot to mention it isn't road legal. reg has just expired and going on hold. no wof, there is an exhaust leak but otherwise I can't see any reason why it would fail short of tyre tread or maybe a light. I was naughty and didn't cert as I still got warrants and always wanted to do more before I did the cert. However, any motor transplant short of a stock M10 will most likely require a certing again anyway. I'm not expecting anyone to keep the M10 setup. I had a lot of fun with it and learnt heaps but its just not the best idea for a power plant. I think about $1000-$2000 to have the 2.0L in, running reliably, and road legal, depending on what else you did.

hmmm, learn something every day, I'd always thought it was sequentional fuel and spark for some reason.

I imagine a few more are also reading this who might be a bit lost so I'll go back a few steps; bear with me if its too simple. Injectors are connected between your fuel rail and intake manifold. The fuel pressure regulator is supposed to keep the fuel pressure constant.problem is that the pressure in the intake manifold varies considerably, from near vacuum to serveral times atmospheric in turbo motors. Lets say that the static fuel pressure is 3 bar (ie 3 times standard atmospheric pressure). If your intake manifold pressure is -0.5bar then the effective pressure your fuel injectors are operating at is 3.5 bar (the difference between the fuel rail and manifold). This is quite higher than the 3bar static, so the FPR (fuel pressure reg) is connected to the intake manifold so that when the rail is at -0.5bar the rail pressure is at 2.5bar so the pressure difference is 3bar. this keeps the injectors flowing the same amount for a given opening time and the ECU is happy. A number of after market ECU's will only raise the 'static' pressure (ie from 3bar to 3.5bar). this is fine to squeeze a little more out of your injectors or for fine tuning if you dont have and aftermarket ECU. Problem is with a rising rate fuel pressure regs (RRFPR). A normal FPR is designed to keep that pressure difference constant so the injectors flow the same the whole time. A RRFPR doesn't, is raises the fuel rail pressure at the rate it was designed for. ie if the intake manifold pressure rises to 1.1bar (0.1 bar boost) and its a 10:1 RRFPR then the rail pressure rises to 5 bar. remember the rail is over 1bar so the fuel rail is already at 4 bar to keep the difference at 3 bar. however that extra 0.1bar raises fuel pressure by 10 times the manifold. So 10x0.1=1bar. which gives the injectors a pressure of 4 bar. (as said before this isn't 25% more fuel, much less infact) The reason for this is to inject more fuel when a standard ECU has been boosted and it can't recognise the boost pressure, so we use the extra pressure to inject more fuel and keep the mix right, otherwise the extra air would go unrecognised and we would run lean. A tuner or suitable software can counter for a RRFPR simply by adjusting the fuel maps but its extra work and a waste of money for the RRFPR, as any extra fuel from the injectors will be reduced by the ECU at that given pressure. Ah right so if you were too raise it by 100% your not going to double your pressure etc? exactly, double the pressure only gives you an extra 40% more flow. google can find you calculators to work out the difference for this also. As for ease of tuning- as Cam said the injector can only open for a finite time. Get massive injectors and by the time it take the ECU to open and close them as fast as it can you've already injected too much fuel. you get much greater precision with smaller injectors Luke, hope that clears things up. If anyone else has been reading and is still a bit lost just ask, because I'm sure you wont be the only one. (edit- That my understanding of how it all works, happy to be corrected by more knowledgable people)

When you remove the oil cap you allow un-metered air into the engine, as the valve cover is connected to the intake boot after the AFM. so, your car is currently running too rich. The extra air going in leaned it out to a more suitable mixture. Normally its the other way around, the car starts to run poorly when you remove the oil cap. what have you stuffed around with to run so rich? If you're really serious about turbo just go MAP, its what most of the aftermarket ECU's run. a few people have converted from AFM to MAF but mostly NA engines running a piggyback computer.

As far as I know a rising rate FPR can cause a few issues, basically it complicates how much fuel the ECU thinks its putting in. A factory FPR maintains a constant relative pressure between the fuel rail and the manifold, which is what you want. (as cam mentions above) Word of warning: Mitsi injectors generally dont fit straight into our fuel rails, require a bit of modding, but can usually be done. Talk to a proper fuel injection shop if your serious about this. IMO just keep your fuel pressure at 3 bar (~43.5psi). Its close what most injectors are designed to run at and should still give good atomisation. I can't remember the formula but raising pressure by 25% doesn't give you 25% more flow, its less than that, depends on square root of difference or something along those lines. Also, no point going way bigger than you need (a little head-room is a good thing though), just makes it harder to tune, especially at idle.